Kingman

Nice intake. I bookmarked that link a long time ago and forgot to read it, good read for sure.

The " - " usually means you have the test leads backwards. If you do this, either keep the factory shielded reference wire or buy another one new. Do not leave out the shielding, it's definitely there for a reason.

So, are you going to be wheeling the truck a lot? Steel holds up a lot better off road against cracking and scraping. If it's mostly going to stay on the pavement, aluminum would probably be better for you and keep the gas mileage up where you're used to. Steel wheels can be pretty heavy and take a bit more power to turn so you may notice a drop in power or MPG. I have the wagon wheels on my Pathfinder but they're painted black. They're much heavier than the stock wheels.

Wow, looks good man! Nicely done. I think some body colored large rivets or something would look good to fill the holes.

Use some punctuation dude. Come on...

Very nice. I have an '84 Z engine and ECU running mine. Definitely a good engine choice! That truck is bitchin. Good work

Badass! Engine pics please!

They still have the red ones that need to be pressed in, for those stubborn people...

I just did this two days ago, way easy. Sometimes the bolts get a bit corroded in but other than that it's not hard.

Daaang! Thanks for spending the time and money to take a look inside!

Check the fusible links at the battery if you haven't already. I actually just had one fail the other day. My gauges were dead, no power to windows or stereo, etc. It did it intermittently while driving then was back to being fine, a few minutes later after I parked everything died. Still cranked over and fired but there are a few different fusible links that go to different things. Quick and easy check. When the CAS goes bad it's usually instantaneous and they don't ever work again. They just fail. Also, the tach is wired to the coil transistor via a white wire so it could very well be coil related. I see you already did some fixin.' A rubbing coil wire in my Pathfinder last year did all kinds of cool stuff, and only at night at the right angle could you see it grounding out.

Looks way good man!

I would think so. If it is it probably has different fuel and throttle maps. Not really sure, something to look into though.

I've done close to 110.

That's the total opposite what you just said.

Do a complete flush and bleed the system very well. Sounds like it needs it anyways. Might have a clogged radiator with all that gunk in there. Coincidental, yeah... but then again distributors and cooling systems are entirely different.

This is what the M30 ECU swap is known for.

What the hell did you do?

Lol, mine is a 1, 2, or 6 crank operation.

Nice man! Put on a few of the bushings I ordered. Panhard rod and all of the stabilizer bar bushings/links and they helped a bit. Just washed it too (because I totally live for destroying my Pathfinder ) Still waiting on all of the rear axle link bushings, can't wait to put those in.

Here's a video of my dad's '01 F150 5.4L 0-85MPH. Trucks have gotten WAY quicker recently, his is a dog compared to anything new. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycU4bCfdL7s I drove my Grandpa's '08 Titan when he first bought it. My first thought was "damn this thing feels cheap inside" then "holy sheit it's quick!"

Exactly, there's a reason it popped. Usually it's a short-to-ground if the problem isn't on a high amperage circuit (running lights and stuff are not).

Was that some slippage in the last gear? And full size trucks aren't anything to mess around with anymore. Almost every new full size truck hauls ass.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZreCfSFG084

Take a few pics?