Kingman

Yes, the factory stereo switched signals back and forth between the mast and the windshield antennas depending on which received the better signal. Nowadays they sell adapters that combine both factory plugs into one for the aftermarket.

Now the trigger wheel makes sense, I totally forgot you were the one doing this turbo build.

What are your goals with this?

Absolutely nothing.

It's a bitch to replace man. Good luck, hope Murphey's Law doesn't attack you like it did me. Everything that could have gone wrong, did go wrong.

Yeah, Nissan didn't think the pulley out to well when they designed it for the Pathfinders and I haven't figured out why they changed it. Engines like the one in my 4/87 Z31 which is a VG30, uses a single 27MM bolt to hold the crank pulley on without the 6 smaller bolts that separate it into pieces. It's all one piece and has one notch to slide over the key way on the crank gear. It's impossible to put it on wrong, therefore the timing marks will always be correct. Go to the pinned topic section in the garage, there's a link to downloading the '94 FSM. Shoulda been the first thing to do instead of finding shady pictures on the internet.

Not convinced that we are certain? I know exactly what I'm talking about, thanks. What sewbster posted is correct. If you want to test what I (we) know, go ahead and align the timing pin on the lower timing belt cover with the furthest left timing mark on the crank pulley. You'll find that the NO. 1 piston is all the way up, both valves are closed, and the rotor is pointed almost directly left at the NO. 1 contact on the cap. Also, the alignment dimple on the crank gear will be aligned with the notch in the oil pump lip. The key way will be facing upwards, a little to the side.

And to answer the other question, the transfer cases as long as they are MANUAL CONTROL, are the same. TX-10. The auto mode transfer cases are different.

Haha, oh how I love the reclining rear seats...

I believe you're misunderstanding the information you have read. The problems with the 30A arise when you're running high horsepower/torque through it, as was stated. Our Pathfinders will never put down anywhere near the amount of power to cause any kind of damage, and towing won't harm it either. Failed transmissions you see are 99.9% of the time caused by people running GL-5 fluid which eats away at the materials inside. There are a lot of people running stock 30As and putting down 4-500HP in Z31s that have never had an issue. I do know of one car that was pushing close to 600HP when the transmission failed at almost 275K miles. My Pathfinder is at 203K and the transmission is butter, I've abused it the same as MY1PATH has. The difference is we are not running insane amounts of power to break anything. Red line dump a 500HP car and you're almost guaranteed to grenade something. The 30A in my Z31 grinds 2nd and 3rd when it's cold. I have yet to change the fluid, but I have no doubt it'll shift like silk when I do as it only has 120K miles on it.

Poly sway bar links might stiffen thinks up a little more than stock.

Did you search at all? There's multiple threads covering the Xterra transmission. The part number supersedes - so you cannot visibly tell the difference between the older RE4 and the newer one. It uses better fluid couplings, valving, and reinforced gears/clutches. You'd be hard pressed to blow one up, especially if you do the wise thing and bypass the factory cooler. Of course, a manual transmission swap is the superior choice here. Adam, no. The original RE4, by design, is a weak transmission. Period. To keep cost and weight down (the older Jatco L3N71Bs were bomb proof and heavy), it used poorly constructed clutches made of a fibrous material that breaks down over time and abuse. This is what clogs the coolers in the first place. Then the cooler kills them entirely.

^ Correct. The timing marks on all VGs are the same. You do know there's a timing/emissions sticker on the hood, right...?

Coolant Temperature Sensor.

Sounds like the belt broke and since you've been cranking the engine, you're more than likely going to need new valves... especially if you can audibly hear noises.

4x4parts.com sells the JWT ECUs. But realize that you'd be dropping almost $600 for it... and for the marginal performance gain it's a waste. The factory chip needs to be removed and then soldered back in, yes.

No. Not supposed to be like that.

It would be a better idea to keep the entire build in one thread.

I towed Ronda the Wonder Honda home after throwing a rod through the block.

Are they implying that for every not-so-popular vehicle they've made an exhaust system for, they've charged $15k... and people have paid for it? Ouch.

Any new updates?

Every live distributor ever produced has a replaceable rotor that will wear out over time.

As a general rule, 10PSI for every 1,000RPM. 24-25PSI is fine at idle as long as it does not exceed around 75PSI at any point when warm.

Test the Coolant Temperature Sensor and make sure it's within spec.

If it was the pilot bushing it would be doing it in all gears due to misalignment of the input shaft.