Kingman

Quest fan does not bolt up, cutting is needed.

I got mine from a Quest/Villager, it moves more than enough air to cool things down in a hurry. I ran mine with the stock 60A alternator for a while before switching to the Maxima 90A. The 60A didn't appreciate the fan too much... the 90A runs the fan just fine at idle, the volt gauge dips when it first clicks on then goes right back up to 14.2V. The good thing about the Maxima and Quest fans is they don't draw that much juice for the air they move. The Taurus fan moves an astronomical amount of air and sucks juice accordingly...AKA it draws a pretty substantial amount and I'll bet a stock 60/70A alternator won't cut it.

I just noticed you posted about it already, I was skimming for "tension rod" and "compression rod" specifically here before I replied so I didn't catch your post. So X2 to what B already said.

I may have it backwards, but I turned mine counter clockwise to lean it out originally and it ended up richening the mixture an insane amount. I don't think it's ever used that much gas going only a few miles up the freeway! I got back on here and the guy had posted his findings with an exhaust gas analyzer and reported that it was the opposite.... I turned mine back in and it sucked less gas. Warming up... don't let it sit and idle when it's cold. It's not good for your engine whatsoever as the fuel will not completely burn when cold at idle, and ends up as nasty carbon deposits everywhere. The faster you get that thing out of closed loop the better, all that's needed when first starting before driving is about 15 seconds for the oil to completely circulate.

Air/Fuel Mixture (you replied before I edited AFR to AFM, although AFR could mean Air/Fuel Ratio). It's a V6, but it makes no difference as the throttle body system is identical between the Z24I and the VG30I and mines not even TBI anymore.

Check the compression rod bushings. They are in between a part of the frame and a "rod" that extends from the lower control arm back.

TPS shouldn't affect much at all, but it will screw with the idle sometimes. I've driven my TBI with it unplugged, ran perfect, and my Z31 doesn't have it hooked up either and makes no difference drivability-wise. Doesn't make a difference if it's plugged in either past tip-in (makes the throttle a little touchier). The TBIs seem to be a lot less sensitive to TPS inputs than the MPFIs. You can manually adjust the AFM by a set screw on the rear most driver's side of the throttle body right by the mounting nut. It's a small flat head, turning it clockwise will lean the mixture and counter clockwise will richen it out.

SEs could have auto climate control as well. Hell I've even seen a 2-door with it. There really isn't much rhyme or reason to the option list between models, and like Adam said, go with the one in best condition and forgo the extra options.

So, one's from the Pacific coast and the other is from the Atlantic coast?

So I've been driving the truck daily and haven't had a single issue. I raised the idle a little bit so it's higher when the headlights, heater, and rear defrost are on at once. I keep forgetting to get a smaller pulley for the alternator. It developed a little varnish issue with one of a lifter doing 60 MPH on the freeway last week. Randomly started tacking. It tacks now and then... either dead silent or sounds like a lifter is trying to escape. I ran a half a quart of ATF for 200 miles to clear some stuff out, and I just changed the oil and it hasn't come back yet. It mellowed out a bunch after adding the ATF, initially shutting up within 30 seconds of dumping it in. I'll just add a half a quart 200 miles before every oil change to keep the motor squeaky clean. I've gotten used to the power upgrade, and now it needs more.

Nissan's toughest 4x4...hahahahahaha. Uh, D/WD? 720 pickup? 620 pickup? Patrol?

Optimal running temperature is 180F. Warm-up ends at 150F, and a bad thermostat can keep the temp low enough to make the engine run in open loop. Before I replaced the thermostat, going down long hills in the cold the temp gauge would go down to almost cold. Was very annoying.

I've got a 180F, 170F allowed the electric fan to cool everything too much and made my needle sway a lot. The needle is dead in the middle of the gauge when warmed up and rarely sways.

In front of the AC condenser behind the grille. Your transmission is an RE4RO1A, and the recommended minimal cooler is an 18,000LB unit.

I assume you checked the fuse?

What's even better is trying to get them back on to the splines, and positioned correctly, while not having the spring snap back and sling the wiper arm out of your hand or pinch your finger.

I'm a big fan of very well lit interiors. You can't see anything with the one dinky little light on the ceiling, so I want to install foot well lights under the dash, in the rear corners of the front doors, where the ash trays are in the back, and some in the cargo area.

I think you'll grow to like that 6.5L, they are pretty damned good motors.

Nice install! A little trick you can do with self tapping screws, instead of drilling a hole you can take a small nail and hammer it in a little. It will create a perfectly dimple for a screw. I would think a capacitor would slowly dim the lights as soon as the power is cut. Maybe a 5 second timer, and a capacitor with that to add a smooth luxurious feeling?

Sounds suspiciously like a MAF or vacuum leak issue...

Always replace head bolts.

Finally fixed the idle issue, wasn't the TPS at all but a horrendous vacuum leak in the IACV. I guess by plugging in the TPS it would sense the issue and correct it immediately, masking the real issue. Now the idle is silky smooth at 900, and not blowing clouds of black exhaust out and spilling raw fuel from the tail pipe on to my driveway.

It's not difficult to do, the head bolt heads are 10MM Allens, what I've done is find a 10MM socket and a straight 10MM Allen bit, with a breaker bar to get them undone.

Well that's no good. Uh, yeah, a head gasket job on a Nissan MPFI V6 is cake compared to that 3VZ-E Toyota garbage. As a suggestion, use only Nissan brand head gaskets. They are the strongest with metal jacketing, most other brands like Fail-Pro are a paper style which sticks to the surfaces and "tears" as the block/heads expand and contract. The failure rate for Fel-Pro gaskets on VGs is insanely high. All of their other gaskets are top notch, just not head gaskets... at least for the VG. On the L-Series motors they were the fix for the shoddy factory Nissan gaskets. I haven't seen a write-up for the job, it's not a common failure really. Some members have done it before and there is a very specific torque sequence to follow for the heads.

My buddy's 740 WHP Talon TSI has one as well.