Kingman

The longer portion of the hose is a molded piece with 2 different sizes on each end. The 90 degree metal elbow is a factory part of the cooling system and so is the part of the hose that comes off the heater core.

It's too tall to fit through the firewall. I'm pretty surprised that the back of the intake hasn't touched the firewall once. I don't see any marks in the black paint where it would have. I also like the look of the runners in the intake better than a boring flat plate.

Had the same issue, it was a brittle wire to the sensor. Rewired and it's been fine.

Good you got it sorted out, I've read multiple times that exact hose tearing and driving people insane for months. I was just telling my buddy about it yesterday, actually.

Strangely the intake is no quieter with the air box. Works for me! Please ignore the shoddy wiring... I've been too busy driving the thing to go through and redo some of the jumbled mess. I've got a serious issue to work out however. The TPS refuses to cooperate, even with re-wiring stuff, and when it's plugged in the engine will idle like silk but refuses to rev past 2500 unless I hold the throttle wide open. At that point the engine sputters, thinks about things for a while, pops once, then goes wide open. With the sensor unplugged it idles like complete ass and blows rich black exhaust but revs and drives perfectly fine. As soon as the sensor is plugged in the idle goes back up to 900 and is perfect. Unplug and it drops to about 500 and sputters and sounds like a cammed V8. I think tomorrow I'll mosey on over to the junk yard and pull a TPS, hopefully that will clear it up. After that the last step is to weld in an O2 sensor bung and plug the sensor in.

Lol yeah that's my name. It really is a good one. Since there's no air filter hooked up it sounds friggin amazing, hearing the suuuuuuubrrraaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaap through the intake with the Flowmaster exhaust is killer. I totally spaced my buddy was over and he's got a Droid phone, takes stellar video. I should have used that. I also noticed how ironic it was that MY1PATH said not to wake the neighbor, and in my video I say something like "i bet the neighbor appreciates this" and then go for another rev sesh. Hah.

And holy effing hell it's got way more power. When it would quit sputtering and actually drive. It definitely pulls harder, and all the way up to 6.5K too. Totally different feel, I like!!!

Yeah, my coolant hose didn't last. It started pissing all over my exhaust manifold. I need to go buy more hose clamps... or steal some from something else laying around...

It was warmed up smarty pants. It was because I had the TPS sensor plugged in. Unplugged it revs fine.

Thanks guys. I was so close to setting it on fire, seriously. I figured out the 3 problems within 10 minutes of each other. Crossed coil wire on my part, the fuel pump relay, and I hooked the injectors to a safety relay that puts full 12V out instead of 11.1 from the computer. Holy hell 7 grand rev limiter! It runs, but not well yet. It's still gotta learn it's self at the rate of DOS so it'll be a while. I need to adjust the TPS, it wouldn't rev with it plugged in very well as you can see. Once I unplugged it, it was very rev happy and pegs red line way faster than the TBI could ever dream of. Me likey!!! I set the idle to 900 instead of like 4-500 where it was at before so it runs smooth now. I haven't driven it yet, I still need to get some flexible tubing to run to the air filter and seal up all the wires I have crossed every which way. But she's a runner, so at least there's a baseline now. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMR9Mss6QII http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EENSDvT3BtM

AHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hmmmm, figured out the fuel issue. It literally fell in to my hands! I was jumbling around with some wiring at the computer then CLICK hummmmmmmmmm CLICK. By accidentally jumping the safety and fuel pump relays, the fuel pump relay unstuck and powered the pump. I noticed it wouldn't always turn on so I put a new relay in and it primes every time I turn the key.

Okay, I'm totally lost. There's 12V going to the coil, fuel pump, CAPS, MAF, CHTS, relays, etc. The damn fuel pump still will not run and the coil will not spark. I've tried different coils and transistors too! I can see the truck sitting in my garage for the next year...

"Fine" is relative. That stupid sensor has a nasty tendency to play games with you until it completely quits, when that happens it takes plugs and catalytic converters with it. What it does is change resistance as the temperature varies, the computer interprets that as rich or lean and adjusts the air fuel mixture accordingly. As the sensor ages, it becomes less and less accurate with sometimes random spikes to either way lean or way rich. Way rich is usually bogging out.

Shouldn't be O2 sensor related, it only sends the computer a 0-1V signal depending on how rich the exhaust is. MAF, TPS, and a sticky throttle cable/linkage at the throttle body can do that.

I don't have much to offer, other than my experience with a Centerforce clutch in a trail-built '76 CJ5. I had originally wheeled the rig with a McCloud clutch, and it was really stiff but also much easier to handle, gauge, and slip a little when needed. The Centerforce had a totally different feel and wouldn't allow any kind of slippage or small power applications. There wasn't enough smoothness to it for finesse, only jerky power-down-now action. We got so tired of it that we put the old McCloud back in. Exedy makes competition clutches as well, and have been around since the 40s. This is also the brand that makes Nissan clutches.

This is partly true, but once the damage has been done it's only buying time until the unit fails as a whole. The most complete fix is a new or rebuilt transmission, and an aftermarket cooler that bypasses the stock cooler.

I can't find the thread off hand, but search TerranoNZ's threads, he posted a very detailed one on how he rebuilt his automatic with a shift kit.

I replied to your PM. It also makes things go a lot easier if you grease the threads on the adjusting bolt when you reinstall, I forgot to do this when replacing an automatic transmission and a small piece of debris galled up the treads and obliterated them entirely. I had to use a 3' cheater bar just to turn the nut on the thread. It was pretty lame...

Yes. 17MM or 19MM.

It's not the transmission, it's the factory cooler. Search harder and you'll find bunches of information. Bottom line: reverse is gone (first thing to go 95% of the time) and you will need a new/rebuilt transmission.

I do not understand. I put in a new computer, triple checked the wires and grounds, etc. #$!&er still just cranks. Something is not right and I can't figure it out! Now for some reason the fuel pump still won't come on, but comes on fine with the TBI computer. Oh, then if put the positive lead from a Fluke meter to the 12V out for the injectors and ground the other lead, the fuel pump relay clicks and the pump comes on but never shuts off. I'm so farking confused!

They look good man! I'm sure I'll see them in person while you're parked at Clark or something...

How many miles are on your rig? If you've got the funds available, I'd buy them all and replace them. That way you know they are all good and won't have to start replacing them one after the other later on.