Kingman

Ignition module and coil packs.

Good luck.

Ah! This one, it uses a reduction hose at the very end.

I just went out and looked at mine, the hose attaches to the rearmost underside part of the actuator in between the actuator body and the metal bracket attaching it to the firewall. You'll need to unbolt it all so you have room to work.

Is the engine running rough? Vacuum leaks are always associated with poor performance. There's a few members on here who've had issues with theirs, usually it was something electronic. I think there's a diagram on the underside of the hood, but it may be for emissions stuff only.

The mechanic would have had to use the 300ZX turbo studs, or VG33 studs. Both are doubtful.

You're right, I'm used to typing "D" when talking about a lot of motors. It's almost a habit...

Yeah. Ratios are a *little* different but it's all the same.

There are two ticks. One is the lifters being dry of oil and clattering until pumped full. This is why some filters can make a big difference. The exhaust manifold tick is the one that usually goes away as everything warms up, and depending on how bad the leak is, it can be a problem. Cold air can enter the system and burn valves, but it's likely not going to happen with just a small leak. You'd have to have some pretty messed up manifolds for that.

There's a pin, in a plug that goes to the ECU that is for the clutch neutral switch, M/T only. It is pin 10 in the diagram I posted on the last page. That pin is empty since this ECU is from an automatic.

Trailing arm bushings are a known failure point and allow the rear axle to shift.

I've gotten a lot of the wiring sorted out and I FINALLY located a firm TBI Pathfinder wiring diagram. Sorted out the fuel pump and ignition system, which is pretty much all that needs to be carried over. I won't have an interlock switch anymore, as the ECU is for an automatic. So hopefully no idiot friends decide to go turn-key and smack something. I'll have to be sure to warn them DO NOT TURN THE KEY OVER OR YOU WILL DIE! Also got some of the intake tubing figured out, went to Home Depot and bought a bunch of 3" ABS plastic tubing in black, so that should solve that. I'm going to use the Z31 air box since it's outlet is designed to run a 3" system and doesn't have the MAF sensor and @!*% stuck to it like the MPFI Pathfinders do. I'll need to figure out a square to round adapter since the inlet on the air box is square, the factory intake spot is round on the Pathfinder. Outlet on the air box. Inlet. Rough guesstimate of the air intake.

2WD. The CVs cannot handle the amount of flex provided in the long travel kits.

I was going to suggest that as well. A nice, low platform with a comfortable interior for the wife and kid(s).

Does it run fine? If it runs smoothly they're not out of order.

They are made by Monroe, and their quality is questionable.

The Z31 heads are identical to the '90-'95 Pathfinder heads, I'm fairly certain that most people run stock heads since they do seem to handle a fair amount of power. I don't understand the point in running a stock engine past 6,500RPM when the power band falls off around that point. I know when I rev mine past 5K with the TBI it looses all power (flow design not meant for high-RPMs) and essentially does nothing past that point. Always has, but I'll see if the Z31 intake flows better at higher RPMs. Then maybe I'll see the point. Whoops, Chris, did you check for vacuum leaks yet?

If any motor design should die, it should be the archaic and insanely inefficient Harley motors...

Why not just keep it in the 280Z it came in? L28DET... amazing. 87, you know that BMW still uses the I6 in their motors that rev to around 7 grand right? They can rev just as high as any other motor, and do it smoother at that. Most in lines were developed for torque, but some weren't, like the BMW 3.0 and Nissan's RB-Series motor. Neither put out strong torque numbers, but they will rev to high hell. RBs have been known to run to 12K RPM. The main reason is, yes they are long and not cost effective anymore with how many other options there are out there. However, it also depends on the materials used that determines how heavy they are. An all aluminum motor is obviously going to weigh less than a cast-iron one. They are only disappearing in the consumer automobile market, they are still very alive and well in the industry. Detroit, Catarpillar, International, Cummins, and Mercedes provide the inline motors for just about every semi-truck or industry working truck on the road. However the Mercedes is a complete garbage motor...

I just ordered a set of MonoMaxes. I always liked they way they made the rig ride, a few buddies with SUVS have them.

Lol you would...

What are you talking about? I have the ENTIRE Z31 wiring harness. The only thing I'll want to do after making the truck run and drive, regarding the MAF, is to shorten the length of the wires going to it. Easily done with a solder gun, shrink tube, and vinyl glue. Pretty common sense to me...

That's fine. Placing the MAF sensor right next to the throttle body will be way easier than trying to stick it somewhere else, anyways.

Ah. When I first ran in to troubles with the mounts I was pretty damn confused myself, as I too thought every block was the same. Then after some poking and prodding around I found out the differences. I wish the motor that I got was from an '87-'89 car since they use a much faster ECU and high impedance injectors. Makes them a lot more accepting to serious mods. That, and the motor mounts would interchange. But I can't complain, like I said the motor was free...

Yes, for the reasons I said above. Twice. The sensor will not run a significant amount hotter being moved closer to the intake. Z31 sensors are already heated and self cleaning, getting way hotter than being a little closer to the engine. They do not measure intake air temperature anyway, it makes no difference to it.