Kingman

Dexron/Merc III for the transmission and transfer case. 75-90 weight gear oil for the front diff.

Before you install your new transmission, be sure to add an aftermarket cooler and bypass the factory one. If you don't, you'll more than likely burn up the new transmission.

I've thought about moving mine to alongside the frame, just to get it out of the engine bay and make changing it a little easier without spilling gas all over the engine compartment. I've never thought about changing styles from OEM though.

There's a general rule, to upgrade sucking in you must, in turn, upgrade breathing out. A cold air intake won't benefit much unless you've got the exhaust system to go with it, and visa versa.

Germans have also been using fuel injection since the 60s in their mainstream Volkswagen vehicles but has been used in passenger cars since 1927 (though not completely "electronic"). In fact, Bosch, who makes almost the entire market's fuel injection systems, originated in Germany. Nissan has been using Bosch systems since they first started with fuel injection. Our injection system is called the Bosch L-Jetronic system, meaning "luft," the German word for "air flow." This means the Mass Air Flow sensor. Other Bosch designs are LH-Motronic, Motronic, LH-Jetronic, D-Jetronic (pre1967), KE-Motronic, KE-Jetronic, and K-Jetronic. AMC developed an electronic fuel injection system to produce in 1957, and Chrysler soon followed. (American companies). Saab has been using fuel injection since the 1970s, as well as Porshce (Volkswagen), Mercedes, and Volvo. Hmmm, Japanese cars started using fuel injection in...? They also never developed their own fuel injection system. Like usual, they've adopted everyone else's technology and claimed it as their own. That's why you can put Mercedes 440CC fuel injectors in a Z31 300ZX, because the entire system is German.

Really? *sigh* http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25358&st=0

My swap was easy as well. I made a spacer for the V-pulley so it would align with the rest of the pulleys, and I needed to grind some edges off of the tensioner bracket so it didn't rub on the alternator housing. 60A to 90A is a pretty big difference...

Running rich.. MAF sensor, O2 sensor, timing, poor ignition, ECU Coolant Temperature Sensor, and vacuum lines are all I can think of. EGR wouldn't make it smell that rich at idle and if you have a code for it, it's probably the control solenoid since it's the only electronic part in that system.

The transmission isn't shifting, which means there's an electrical or fuel delivery problem of some sort. There's a lot of parameters that have to be met by both computers (ECU and TCU) in order for the transmission to shift. Does it throw any codes...? I assume that if you swapped ECUs you would have checked for codes first.

So does a little dab of RTV on each corner.

I was gonna say... I've driven a SuperCoupe with IRS.

Mine does the same thing as yours, with both motors. It's what happens when you bog a motor down and start floating valves... It's not good for the motor to make it do that, if you need to speed up then shift down unless you're revving past 2500 or so. The engine simply cannot make enough power to really accelerate in 4th at low RPMs, and bogs down, which causes the clattering. And yes, they are a viscous clutch set up.

They are correct if it's a high compression motor designed to run off 91, what happens when running low octane fuel is pre-ignition or pinging.

As far as octane goes, running a higher octane isn't going to benefit you very much, if at all. These are low compression motors (9:1) and don't require anything more than 87 or 89.

I noticed a little bit of a side effect. Highway mileage is terrible, and I'm thinking it's because I leaned it out so much that the O2 sensor is overcompensating for it. I went somewhere, all highway, that usually takes 1/8th to at most 1/4 tank. I used almost a half. But it does not smell nearly as rich at idle and it doesn't bog down like it used to. So now I know I have a way-too-rich fuel mixture somehow, and I need to fix it instead of doing this...

I adjusted mine out, to the left. I would assume that would allow more air into the mixture and it seems to have more power and isn't sucking as much fuel.

Oldsmobiles, Buicks, Cadillacs, Fords, Mercurys, Lincolns, Chryslers.

VQ40, Hi-Rev VQ40 (garbage motor).

I adjusted mine, and either it's just me or it doesn't smell as rich at idle.

The EGR valve will have very little effect on fuel mileage.

You could get that same technology in many American cruisers, including the full graphic equalizers. Chryslers, GMs, and Fords alike. Where's the electric sliding sunroofs, the auto adjusting and leveling ride suspension systems, the memory power and heated seats...? Never seen any of that in a Japanese vehicle of the day. A/C has also been used in American cars since the early 60s... It also wasn't the "sophistication" of the Jap cars that hurt the Domestic auto makers, it was that at the time they built the better cars on the road while America was slacking off and producing shoddy quality. American cars had just as much, or more, electronic goodies than the Japanese cars...but the cars themselves didn't last too long. Their sports cars were much better, yes, because they put the same goodies found in American cruisers in to a powerful, sporty, and reliable package. But I'll say it again. Almost all of the technology we use today, that's made by Japanese companies, was originally American technology. The trend of Japanese companies commandeering American technology has been going on for decades.

You may want to check your timing, for an MPFI it should be set at 15*BTDC.

Whoops, I read the title wrong. I need to do: fix the running issue, wheel bearings/shocks/ball joints/HooHaa CL, spray some silicone in the window tracks and/or clean them out on the driver's side, replace my cracked windshield, replace the front pads and rotors, change the drive train fluids, and replace the driver's seat belt after something tore the crap out of it. Now want to do, that's a whole 'nother story...

I think so, yeah. And the first-gen Tundra frames are so weenie it's pathetic. My Explorer frame was much thicker and better braced than that piece of @!*% Toyota frame.

As far as I'm aware there shouldn't be any play... and it is normal to have to back up to disengage the hubs. Stupid design, I switched to manual hubs...