Kingman

I changed my mind. Looking through more and more wiring, the wiring harnesses are damn near identical. I'll keep the TBI wiring harness and splice in only the wires that I need for the MPFI, mainly fuel injectors. I'll run those along the factory harness and change pins at the computer harness as needed. Much cleaner and surprisingly simpler. That way I don't have to swap coil wiring and all that BS.

I've been through that ordeal before with my old '87. You cannot put one in, unless you rewire every single thing, swap ECUs, TCUs, and rewire some of that too.

1987s use the Jatco L3N71B 3-speed, locking torque converter transmission.

Yeah, I'm really disappointed they replaced the 4.0L with the POS 3.8L V6. It was one of the most durable engines ever produced, originally designed by AMC. All cast iron, babbitt bearings, torque monsters, and you could run 'em dry of oil and they would still keep right on truckin'.

Thanks a lot man! My mom wanders out to the garage every once in a while and stands there scratching her head. Most of my buddies that come over do that too. Not bad for an 18 year old kid I guess. I make a lot of my money by being the "mechanic" for other people's sheit. I enjoy it, most of the time...

Now I've got to trace the firewall lines on a cardboard replica so I can make a box out of sheet metal that will conform to the firewall. I may need to figure something out for another throttle cable, I have the factory one routed behind the intake and over the top to the throttle body. It's kinda long and close to the firewall so I might cut it down a little.

Maybe, I have a ton if insulation to pack in there. I may stick a bunch of the tarmat material I used for the rest of the sound deadening in the truck behind there as well.

Um, yeah haha pretty much. I can't say it enough, I'm so not looking forward to the wiring!

I've already got 4 bikes to strip down and sell the parts, another Pathfinder to put a *built* engine and transmission in to, an Alpha Romeo Spyder to put back together with a rear transaxle, a '67 Impala to continue restoring, an '89 Bronco II that needs a new motor and some work, a Tahoe that needs new head gaskets, an '89 300ZX that needs a timing belt, water pump, cam seals, and a transmission cooler, and whatever else that might come along.

You'll need to swap speed sensors, nothing too important.

Because some idiot people don't know how to tow with a clutch, so they are told that they can't tow as much in order to somewhat protect them from frying everything. I don't believe that a manual cannot tow any less than an automatic. My step-sister's dad owns a '96 Dodge Ram 1-ton, V10, dually, 5-speed that he bought off the showroom floor. He tows large cattle trailers, full, across the country and has tipped the scales at 12,000LBS multiple times. I've been there when we were weighed once. 190K, completely stock. Never had an issue with it and the drive train felt fine the couple of times I've driven the truck. I'm fairly certain that those trucks were not rated for that much capacity.

Well I'll be damned, it fits! I can tell there will be an issue with torque twist on the motor, so I may have to massage upwards a little bit to allow for that. Other than that it fits fine... That went a little easier than I had expected.

Yeah I'm sticking with the more complete one. I started yanking the harness and labeling stuff, the few hours I spent already made me grumpy. Would you mind sending me the info you have, so I can compare it? And I did some more extensive tracing and found that the Crank Angle Position Sensor is responsible for powering the ECU, pin 6 that goes to the ECU main relay is only to actuate it. Weird!!!

Ouch, definitely looks worn. I think it's considered illegal tampering to tear apart the ignition systems, which is why a lot of those units are sealed.

Taking a video of the noise will help immensely.

Too little antifreeze in the system will not cause overheating. It'll help a little if the engine starts to overheat, a proper 50/50 mix has only a 13F higher boiling point than straight water. The pressure in the cooling system, 15PSI, is what is supposed to keep the liquids from boiling. Did you look at what was coming out of your tailpipe at all? Maybe take the over flow tank out, and fill it with water to see if that's leaking. Another thing you can do is get a cooling system tester. All it is, is a radiator cap, rubber tubing, and a squeeze pump with a gauge on it. You can pressurize the system to 15PSI and see if any hoses start to leak.

So now I know which wires I need to change over, but I have two wiring diagrams telling me slightly different things pertaining to the coil set up. I also soldered and wrapped a lot of wiring that got messed up from the start, which had to do with mice eating some away and the guy I got the motor from who's friend I guess started yanking on everything and broke quite a few things that I've finally replaced. I hate non-lead solder, it fcsking sucks!

Pull the shifter back to "1." Look on the backside of the shifter and you'll see two screws, remove them. Then press the button in and pull up and wiggle it and it'll slide off. Usually the spring inside the handle flies out with the button and gets grease on whatever it touches.

Interesting. My buddy's Toyota T-100 3.4L V6 was doing the same thing, it's ran off coil packs/ignition module as well. It would randomly act up like you said, spit sputter misfire you name it, then be fine. It was a combination of a failing fuel injector and a coil pack on different cylinders. That was an absolute nightmare to track down!

My step dad's 262 straight-six in his '76 CJ5 is a hell of a motor too, sounds like a V8 loping until about 2,000RPM. Though it's been built to Hell and made for low-end torque for the competition trail runs he goes on.

Yeah, it's a pretty good amount of work... Hopefully it will be worth it.

I've got a free set up, I'm not changing any computers or injectors any time soon and I'm aware of the different Titania and Zirconium O2 sensors. I also won't ditch the air box for an open cone filter, I do wheel this truck and here there is a lot of mud and rain in Washington. I actually just got back from a late night wheeling trip where the mud holes we had to go through on the trail were almost over the hood. Actually one was. I was riding in my buddy's 4Runner, he put an open cone on a few days ago and already found out why it's a bad idea. Sucked some water into the engine and packed the filter with mud. Sealed box is a much better option for any rig going off road. I believe the Pathfinders use the Titania sensor, since it's 17MM and the '84 Zs use the Zirconium which is 22MM. I was on the site linked in the last post for the sensors and computers a few days ago, and have been studying up on everything since I got this Pathfinder and had originally intended on doing the swap. I just never looked through the wiring until not too long ago. Later on, when I feel like gaining more performance I'll run the newer computers with larger high impedance injectors, with a gutted plenum, 200SXSE 60MM throttle body, Walbro fuel pump, and whatever else. Once Mister510 gets his turbo situation handled and reliable, I'll take notes on his work and start on my own. Tomorrow I'll be cutting the hole out of the firewall and start to yank/splice the wiring harnesses together with the needed wires.

Yeah, unlatch the glass, open it up till it's vertical, and slide it sideways on the pins...

Have I mentioned that I hate wiring yet? Got some things sorted out with a TBI wiring diagram, finally! Fuel pump: Pin 108 (white/red) Load signal: Pin 22 (gray) ECU power source: Pins 27, 35 (green and green) Ignition signal wires - Resistor: Pin 3, Transistor: Pin 5, Transistor: Pin 14 (white, gray or white, white or blue/white) Neutral switch: Pin 10 (doesn't say) Ignition switch: Pin 9 (black/yellow) Main relay: Pin 6 (blue/red) So I've got a few wires that go to the same thing that are the same color. Great! Now to figure out exactly which ones I connect where so I don't mis-match something and start a smoke show. The tachometer is ran off the ignition resistor wire, in case anyone was wondering.

No, none had power sliding sunroofs. It's always possible that someone had one installed at some point, it's something I've wanted to do for a while now.