Channel595

nissans are overcooled, i ran my truck on the hottest day of the year with no fan shroud and it didnt even run hot at all, the radiator is pretty big and has a nice thickness to it. you could probably run it with a radiator half the size and it will be fine

diesel is far superior then gas. its easier to work on, more power per liter, less electronics for the computer, easier to tune, and can be submerged in water.

you will have to start by removing the engine, and then only use champion racing plugs! as for sealer elmers glue is what i used

you can use a nut cracker to install it, lol. its a tapered thread so it dont need to be that tight. i did this before when i was in a pinch and had no tools but what i could find, and didnt leak a bit.

5w 30 is way too thin for 300k miles, use at least 10w 30

fuse links are a pain. i would replace them if i had the first sign of problem from them. use a marine type battery terminal and then you can run all the fuses to a post on the terminal. i dont see how that article makes sence... so if you have a 30 amp fuse link for your radiator fan that takes 30 amps to run but it takes 60 amps every time it starts up wouldnt the fuse link be melting a little bit every time it starts up?

i say go for it and try the hockey puck lift... the rubber will only break down if you live in a polluted place and that is like years of corrosion, if your tires will get side wall checked before your tread wears out thats a bad sign. besides the rubber will probably have some cushy feel to it so it might make a softer ride

that is way too rusted to fix and have it be worth the time or money. so here is what you do: take out the engine and trans from pathy, part out or sell the remains. drive your 300zx like its stolen, and when your engine blows up you will have a nice donor to drop right in and replace! and by the way all those pathfinders listed are way over priced, i paid 1450 for mine and did almost nothing to it been driving it for almost 2 years now.

i did the passenger side steering gear and it came off a 87 something... but the diameter of the pitman arm splines is smaller, the overall length of the arm is shorter, and also the taper for the ball joint is backwards. i dont know how i will get a longer pitman arm to fit this though...

just my 2 cents... i got 2 sets of jgc springs and didnt lift much... i decided to put spring spacers in and cut the bump stops down that way it will tuck more and keep the center of gravity down and best of all keeping factory parts!

compression check would tell you if you had bent valves. usually if its an automatic you have less chance of bending valves because the crank isnt directly connected to the wheels

cut it off at the first wrinkle so that way it doesent show at all thats what i did

how about cheaper ft control arms, i dont see them being worth almost 400 bucks for welded steel stock

The vg 30 is pretty gutless to begin with but if you use a turbo engine and put a tiny turbo on it it would make more lower end torque and at top end the turbo would pretty much do nothing

I don't see why an sr20det won't work... I'm not sure but I think it might mate up with the stock tranny...

did this yesterday and i see why you need the power steering pitman arm now... the taper for the ball joint is backwards, but if your cheap like me you will drill a 9/16 hole half way through the pitman arm and the ball joint will seat where it should. also if you dont want to drill slots through the holes that dont line up on the gear box you can drill smaller ones and the spare bolts from the body lift will work.

230k and still has factory plug wires!

clutch freeplay? how is gl 4 hard to find?

bosch invented fuel injection so it might own the patent but it is more of a european OEM brand. its not like you can find any factory nissan parts that actually have a bosch brand stamped on it. bosch does make stuff all around the world because it makes all sorts of electronics like appliances and power equipment.

i second that on the sea foam... i would only use it if you were to tear down and rebuild, you might as well just pour brake cleaner in your engine

i wouldnt use bosch anything on a japanese car... as for a cap and rotor use only factory parts, tune ups can make cars misfire with brand new aftermarket parts as for plugs only use NGK get platinum so you dont have to replace them for a long time

this happened to my truck ever since i bought it, the only thing i can come up with its the control arm bushings in the rear, when it stops the rear diff will change angles and when you take off it puts opposite load on it and you hear a thud. its not u joints because they usually make a ping noise.

dont stick anything into the spark plug hole, its too much of an angle... just look down it and turn the motor over by hand. if your average height you will be able to see down into it, ive done it before.

sounds like master cylinder, when you press the brake in slow it wont seal internally allowing fluid to bypass.

i got my 92 for 1450 off craigslist with 220k, with worn out brakes, tranny, and t belt(had all ft seals and belt replaced about $200). hand full of dents but no rust. and thats all the money i have put in it in the past year or 2. i would say its a decent price