Channel595

Wheel bearings are pretty forgiving and don't need to be exactly 7 ft lbs, and there is no special puller just a brass punch.

I have worked at many dealerships and independent shops and here is the absolute truth. At the dealer: the techs are usually more passionate about that car line, will do a good job, factory trained, and the dealer will have every special tool to do every job. At independant shops: more focused on beating "flat rate time", usually use after market(cheap) parts, will have to fab(m)ricate special tools My personal experiance at independent: if I had a car that I didn't like (almost every chevy) I would not even change the oil, but rather top off oil and put new sticker on it, I almost never did any fluid flushes because they were messy, if you pissed me off I will make sure to leave bolts out of your car When I worked for the dealer I always did a good job and never had any complaints because the cars are easier to work on as they mostly all newer with no rust or leaks. If you take it to a specialty independant shop they will usually do a good job because they only focus on certain car lines. By the way I also am an ASE master tech

My1path did you randomly come up with those numbers? A stock cat will always clean the tail pipe emissions better then after market. If your cat is restricted then its just flat out bad and needs to be replaced. A cat can't get carbon fouled it burns too hot for carbon to collect, but it can melt the core and cause a restriction

Sounds like you over tightened the bolts, I woul re check the rest and see if you tore the steel on the body of the truck

It has a weak cylinder, but still has some compression. Rough idle and smoke is normal on diesel engines but with that one weak cylinder it will make a rough engine as long as that is the only problem.

There is a reason the factory cat is bigger then the after market one... it works better and makes less emissions, if its not carb cat I wouldn't expect it to last more then 3 years. You can sell a non working factory cat for about 60 bucks I don't see how this can be that good

There is no way an injector could make enough noise to hear over the engine being on. Sound like a single bad lifter, if you hear the lifters at all they are bad

The valve dish in the pistons is for higher compression, not to make it a free spinning engine... as for snapping the timing belt, if you have an automatic and you snap the t belt while cruising you have a chance that there was no piston to valve contact but if you try and start the car after words your chance just got smaller. If you have a stick and snap the belt while cruising, the rear wheels are directly connected to the crank and you are still spinning the engine while bending valves, hope this helps

why would you need to remove the upper intake manifold again and again? sounds like thats your problem... as for the oil pressure problem, if your pressure is below spec at the given rpm it usually means worn bearings. it is normal for the oil light to turn on at very low rpm.

so my pathfinder is pretty dented, the paint is oxidised, it burns oil, needs: idle air valve, front ball joints, valve cover gaskets, tires, clutch soon. the transmission never had the tsb with the extra fluid level installed so it whines pretty bad. oh and the amplifier or sub just broke... by the time i fix all that i could buy a pretty decent car and if i do sell my pathfinder i will probably just get the same body style pathfinder because i love this car. it has 238,000 miles by the way.

blinking cel = potential cat dammage like a missfire from no spark. condensation in the cap? like frost melting when it gets warm and turning to water?

i could see how they would lift a toyota because the torsion bars are connected to the upper control arm but why would a nissan need one?

why would i want to use them? has any one used them on their pathfinder and can give input.

when you turn your car off thats when it is the hottest and if your cap isnt bleeding off right it will tend to leak at the weak point if its a head gasket

if your really afraid its coolant you can taste it (a small amount wont hurt) it will taste bitter. the easiest way to see if your loosing coolant mark your coolant resevoir with a sharpie in the morning and then after you go driving for some bit check your level and make sure you park in the same spot and check when your engine is cold again

damper delete is the next thing i will be doing, i noticed it makes the clutch disengage slower. no damper no problems.

if you were getting straight dripps of coolant out of the exhaust you would definitely see white smoke and lots out the tail pipe... warning dont eat the yellow snow!

besides the electric fan most of that is basic maintenance. i still doubt 20 mpg unless it was the best conditions with down grade or back wind actual mpg

i find it hard to believe that a 19 year old engine can get 17 more horse power by those small things, maybe some from the msd but not even 17. one thing that can help gas mileage is put mud flaps in front of your tire (just look at hybrids), and for horse power eneos oil

if you can see it and you put some vaseline on a small screw driver it will stick to it. or put an air nozzle up to the spark plug hole and blow it out

also the timing pully on these can be installed incorrectly and be not on tdc...

usually the backfire in the intake is a lean burn miss. if the exhaust leak is bad enough it could actually suck in air and trick the o2s into thinking the mixture is too lean and then make it too rich. fix the obvious problems first

neither, they both will probably say "remove transmission" but here is the factory service manual http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/

that car in the mud hole above is gas powered you can see the distributor... and its still above water. i guess the question i should be asking: is how do you water proof a distributor cap? i got that table spoon amount from a service bulletin

sounds like they guessed on what the problem was