Diesel Boy

Same here, i really want to get my bars under way, but if im going to lift it nows the time!!!

Sorry, i have a correction to make to that last post, i did some investigating and it turns out that the first to second shift has a band instead of a clutch, and when this band starts flaking the shift can become jerky. At least a band can be adjusted not like a clutch, so perhaps it might be good to get it looked at after all!!! Pete.

hehe, mine came with one standard from the factory!!! The inclinometer things are quite reasuring at times, but the altimeter needs to be set daily as air pressure changes all the time, so unless you live by the sea your buggered!! Pete.

i know how Miguel feels, mine cost $NZ150 and the cleaning kit is about $NZ30. Thing is you don't have to buy many paper filters before it has payed for its self!!! Especially if they are used of road and get dirty quickly!!

A good hard, fast shift is good, its the slow smooth slippy gentle shifts that you want to be wary of. That hard shift tells me your clutch pack is probably in good condition, not burnt and slipping. On saying that, my trans has done 2000kms since i had it rebuilt and im not happy that the first to second shift is quick enough, im sure it is slipping. The guy who rebuilt it said it should sort its self out but i reckon its getting worse. Gonne give them a call i think. Any way, back to you, i really wouldn't use any sleep over it at this stage, just keep monitoring it, especially the smooth shifts, if they get slower, then start worrying. Pete.

Whats the point????? A K&N will work just as well in stock replacement form as it would in the cone filter form, the filtering and air flow properties are the same either way. People put a cone filter on for cold air and breathing improvement, but you gain all that from the snorkel. (i dissagree with the breathing improvement and snorkel)

Better pass on the thanks to Igranch and his Boss's secretary!!!

Right. Soooo, a MBC will have very little bearing on throttle response and engine out put at low RPM as the waste gate is closed and there is no controlled leak to reduce the speed the turbine is spinning etc. Right, waste of space. Next, the BOV. Thats my understanding to a certain extent. Except: Anti lag. The purpose of which is to keep the turbo spinning in the right direction and at a high speed in order to reduce the lag/time it takes to build up pressure in the intake manifold once the throttle is applied. So to date my understanding of a BOV has been to release the pressure in the intake manifold, for perhaps the reason you mentioned, but also as a way of reducing the lag. Its all about pressure equilibriums. when the turbo reaches max pressure, and then you release the throttle, the pressure in the intake manifold exceeds the presure in the exhaust manifold. Naturally the pressurised intake air wants to reach equilibrium with the atmostpheric pressure. It does so by escaping back the way it came, out the turbo. In doing so it spins the turbo in reverse, and the next time you go to put your foot on the throttle it has to correct the direction the turbo is spinning in and also rebuild the pressure in the intake manifold. Thus, it creates our fravourite friend TURBO LAG> A large number of cars come out standard with a turbo and no BOV. The throttle body controls air flow. The computer reads whats going on in the combustion chambers and adjusts the mixture accordingly. Leaning is predominantly a carby and turbo prob. Cheers for the info, Pete.

You sound like a Knowledgable guy with Turbos, so what is the theory behind the boost controller. I realise it is used to controll the pressure generated in the intake manifold, but how do you use this to your advantage to gain performance at low RPM??? i.e, do you turn the boost pressure up at the lower RPM or what??? Very interested in this!! Ever considered a BOV?? I was tossing that idea round, as i can hear the pressure being released quite clearly through the snorkel every time i take the power off, especially in low range if you are giving her heaps trying to get unstuck of attack a bank of somthing. Pete.

Sounds like the clutches are slipping between gears!!!

I honestly reckon its the gas stations that are the ones that are lossing out the worst over here!!!! They made the little money that they did not from selling the fuel but all the goddies inside the station like lollies, drinks,mags, etc. Now the prices are so high that people cringe when they see the price at the pump, march in the door, pay and march right back out again. They already spent enough on the gas with out buying other stuff too. Im just waiting to see stations closing down all over the place.

Spose it should have pumped all its oil out shouldn't it!!!! Man, you are going to be lucky if that tranny sees out another 1000miles if thats what happened!!!

Yeah road tax is included in the price of petrol, but not in diesel, so diesel is dirt cheap at the pump, but you have to pay road tax seperatly. You know, make a trip down to the Post Office and pay for them, you get a label that goes in your window with what your speedo said when you got it and how many Km's you have got from there. Last time i brought 10,000 km's worth of road tax, and that cost $NZ250. So that made the diesel per litre $NZ0.78. Price at pump has since gone up so it will be more expensive over all.

Jeez Buzz, can't believe diesel is more expensive than Petrol!!!!!!!!! Do you guys have to pay road user charges on top of that or is it included in the price like petrol?? I think your government is jipping you!!!! How can diesel be more expensive??????????? I just can't get my head around that. Diesel is about half the price of petrol here, but then we pay RUC on top of that seperatly.

Look carefully at my Photo, its a 92.

Roger. As soon as i get home from work. Its saved on my PC at home.

In case it gives you some ideas:

You can run a self diagnosis on the trans computer using the a secret combination of operations with the gear lever and O/D switch. If you want it i will post it for you some how. Its pretty use full, the only thing is, is that your light on the power switch has to be working as that flashes codes that let you know whats wrong in there. Let me know if you want it!! I may be able to email it to 88 and he could put it on that list of important stuff at the top of the page, and host the document on his sight or somthing. Its 12 scanned pages of self diagnosis stuff. I got it from Igranch. Pete.

Make sure its a TD27(t)!!!!!!!! With out the turbo you will be bitterly dissapointed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You realise fuel lines, and tacho, intake, fuel pump among others will have to be changed to become compatible with a diesel??

Service manuals are $$$$$$$$$$ to buy!!! I don't think any one on this site has one, as you are one of four of us that have the TD27t engines. Ask any Q's you like, i have done alot of work on mine so hopefully i can pass that on to you!! Valve clearences i can get. BUT, mine were noisy when i got the vehicle, i went to my reliable mechanic, asked about what sort of system was used, eg shim and bucket etc. The answer i got was that the rockers and rocker shafts wear really badly and in most cases are not worth playing with. So what i ended getting done was getting the rocker shaft reconditioned and new rockers. Very cheap. So basically if its sounding noisy, then there is a very limited amount of adjusting you can do. I'm pretty sure the clearences are on a sticker in my engine bay, i'll check for you. If you ring your local Nissan dealer they will also supply them for you. Anything else ask away!!! Cheers, Pete.

Looking at the fab shroud, i maybe able just to drop that down as there seems to be other holes in the radiator. That would be just to sweet!!!!

Hmmmm. I like the radiator and brake line stuff, i didn't notice when i had my radiator out last. Ok, looking around the engine bay, i see the disstance between the airfilter and the intake to the turbo is going to extend by 2". Might have to work on that.

I may do!! So you put in 2" blocks right?? Thats about 50mm i think. Underneath, how did you re-anchor your brake and fuel lines to the chassis?? Did you source a Navara Hi/Lo transfer lever or bend/lengthen yours?? Did you choose to make new brackets for you radiator? If you left it as is, what happens to the locating braket at the bottom?? How did the lift effect your Bullbar mounting?? Im not to worried about the bumpers and all that, im going to make my own. ALL THESE QUESTIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think im most worried about the radiator and lines underneath the vehicle. They need to be very secure for the kind of stuff i do!!!

Yeah neither did I. Just surprises me how fast they wear when you use them on the road to get to trails!!!

~~~~~~Tremble~~~~~~~