Diesel Boy

http://npora.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtop...1&hl=spare+tyre and http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1875&hl=carrier Seems that from 90 onwards they have all the bracing in there ready to go.

Yeah, you might be right, all im saying is that do a search, because i have a suspicion that some one came accross seriouse problems when putting one on. Maybe i should do a search. Now theres an idea!!

Apparently, from memory from a discussion on this ages ago, you have to put all the strengthening stuff on from another Pathfinder that goes inside the rear corner. Makes sense, as you can't bolt straight to the body work, not enough strength. Do a search, im sure you will find it here.

Hey. Sold the Terrano to get a short wheel base Safari/Patrol. Hubs - on a 4wd you have special free wheeling hubs on the front to dissconnect the wheels from the diff. Terranos come out with automatic ones which are ok, but can be tempremental and let you down, so most people that are serious put manual ones on. Im not sure you understand what im on about so i'll post a picture and it will all make sense!! Shocks - No, you will need new springs for the rear, and crank the front torsion bars up. The shocks improve the ride and handleing alot on and off road, but they will not lift the vehicle. Air shocks will, for lots of $$$$!!! The Steering Stabiliser has the bracket to the chassis with it. P&H made it in Hamilton, its nothing special. Yep, i have the filter still, all I've sold so far is the bull bar and used the rear Rancho shocks as a duel Steering Stabiliser on the Safari. Im in Westport (origionally from Hamilton, bin here 1yr). Im going up to Hams for my brothers 21st in two weeks, I get off the Ferry in Wellington at about 11:30 on the 21st of Sept, so if your at work or what ever i could hang round till lunch. Wanted to go to Real Groovy anyway. Can't hang round to long though, alot of hours driving to do to get from there to Hamilton. 16hrs in Total. I'LL take some pics of every thing when my next shift starts on friday and i can pinch a decent camera from work. Cheers, Peter.

I think your problem could be with you drive line. Check your Universal joints, greese them see if it improves for a sort time. Do you have a suspension lift?? Also the drive shaft may have come out of balence. Im my opinion there is really no way a torque convertor could shudder enough to transfer vibrations through the whole vehicle. They either work fine, or let go altogether and take the bell housing with them!!!

Bugger!!!! I was going to pull my Lovell lift springs out two before i sold my Terrano. Was to lazy to as i thought no one would want them. Bugger!!!! I have standard springs if any one wants them for anything??? Free to a good home!!!!

Do that and run the diagnostics test, the start with lg's list!!

Haha, true!!! P-Up = Pick Up = Ute(in NZ) =Hard body Riiight. In that case, i hope you have the equipment to play with leaf springs, they are a battle!!! The tricky part with the Torsion bars is to get the front end level on either side. Then you need an alignment. The rear springs quite often need pure brute force to but them back in.

No, on the dash beside the steering wheel, under the gauges there should be a switch with Power, A/T,Hold on it. Make sure that is in the middle position, A/T. Thats all i was saying. It is possible this is just an electrical problem, go to the Garage section of the forum center, and in one of the bold headings at the top of garage section should be a PDF document with instructions on how to run a self diagnostic procedure on the trans. Try it, it may be helpfull.

Add a leaf?? Take a look under your Pathfinder, tell me what sort of springs you see!!! Theres a bit of a trend developing with these suspension kits!!! There was one a few months back offereing a 3" lift, but the rear coils where plainly stated as beingonly 1.5: lift

Your tranny has a hold switch right?? Sounds like it could be operating in hold?? Saying that it will usually shift normally in High range, its only low range where it holds in gear from a stand still. Just a thought(not a good one).

How are you for mechanical competence?? Well, as you would do, start with the electrical, then go fuel, then mechanical. So to me it sounds like you a have a cylinder that is not firing at all. Go around and pull each plug leed of one at a time. With the engine running, pull a leed off, listen to hear if the missfire gets worse, meaning you have two cylinders now not firing, then put the lead back on and do the next one and so on. If im correct (which is hard with out actualy being there to see what the vehicles doing in person) You should adventually get to a leed that when pulled makes no effect to the way the engine runs. You now have a place to focus on. You can either remove that spark plug from the offending cylinder, or leave it there and get another and insert in into the end of the leed. Rest the spark plug against the cylinder head and don't touch them. Restart the engine and look to see if there is nice fat blue spark. If not start replacing rotors, leads and plugs, or swap leads from another cylinder with the off ending one and see if it makes the plug spark. Then you know wether the leeds good or not. If you get a spark with the existing lead, and havn't pulled the sparkplug from the head, then do that, see if the origional plug sparks. If it doesn't replace the plug and it should be fine. If it sparks, then the problems most likely not electrical. If you have EFI run the codes on your computer. Most likely not fuel system related as the puff of smoke and back fireing indicates there is fuel reaching the combustion chamber, just not being burnt in there, exploding in the hot manifold instead. Your next best bet is to monitor your coolent usage, either gaining or loosing water, looking to see if there is an oily sheen on top of the water under the radiator cap, and in the header tank. Also, when the engine is at normal opperating temp, pull the radiator cap off and look for a steady stream of air bubbles coming up through the water. Also keep an eye on the condition and amount of oil in the sump. Is the oil grey or milky looking, and does the level increase. Goes hand in hand with loosing water from the cooling system. So where am i going with this last bit??? Im thinking a leaking cylinder head gasket. If you have the money, get a compression check done, or do it the cheap way, dissconnect the high tention lead between the coil and the distributor. Turn the motor overon the starter for a few seconds listening for iregularties in the speed the motor turns over. You should be able to hear each compression, nice and evenly, with no difference between them,. If while turning the engine over it reaches a compression where it kind of skips, or speeds up, then drops back again and you can count 1 2 3 4 5 skip 1 2 3 4 5 skip, them you may save your self time messing around and go straight to a mechanic!!! Just some thoughts, Peter.

Also, if you want the hubs, front shocks, and steering stabiliser which i was talking about before in the post above, let me know, they are all just sitting on a shelf in my garage gathering dust. The hubs and shocks have done bugger all work, like a few hundred K's on road and about two 4X4 trips over the space of about two and a half months. The steering stabiliser has done a bit more work, was on the vehicle for about 7months. I pulled all this stuff of before i sold it, and am open to offers if your interested. Just a rough idea of what i think its all worth: Hubs $150 Shocks $50 each Steering stabiliser $80 But at the end of the day its only worth what some one will pay for it!! Oh, and theres a K&N airfilter as well, recently cleaned, but i can service it again for you if you wanted that. $50 Just a thought, Peter.

And another thing, the motor weighs 500+kg =)

Any thing 4cycl would fit i reckon, just that TD42 is one huge lump of steel!!!

Right, don't know weather your based Nth or Sth island, but here goes: Snorkel - Airflow, NZ4x4 Equipment $350 Suspension lift 50mm - P&H suspension Hamilton $550 installed and alighned Steering stabiliser - $150 from same place fitted (they made bracket) Shocks - Rancho RS5000 $95 each from AWF in auckland Hubs - AVM manual $270 from same place ROH steel rims - 15 X 7 $75 each, same price at all firestone dealers Engine wise, i went to my fravourite place in Hamilton, Turbo Diesel and Automotive. Taking the Safari there when im up north next for new injectors. They know Nissans, and there workman ship is thebest i have ever come accross!! I took the Terrano in fearing a blown turbo. After showing me what the problem really was (huge amounts of gunk in the intake manifold) and telling them i had $700 to spend, they put new injector nozzles on, removed the EGR which was clogging up the intake manifold, resurfaced the rocker arms and tuned the whole thing. The difference was huge!!!!! Money well spent i say. I then put a K&N on and a straight through silencer. Even better then. No props with the suspension lift as far as LTSA were concerned, never got round to a body lift, didn't need to, managed to run Simex Centipedes as it was. Suspension lift would be cheaper than what i paid if you installed the springs your self and wound up the torsion bars. All you would have to pay for would be the springs andthe alignment. Any more Q's, just ask!!

Why would you need new lifters?? (ignorance)

Naturally aspirated diesel (non turbo) Apparently they go pretty good with a aftermarket turbo kit fitted!!!

SO????????????? Will it fit?? I wanna know so i can say i told you so!!!!!!

But would you smell it?? i guess it would come out the breathers wouldn't it.

Same year and all!!! I did have a few things i was worrying about with a body lift: You would have to extend the lines from the fuel filter to the injector pump. The air cleaner being mounted on the guard will need to be cut and an extention put in it. Other than that i think its all the same as with the petrol.

That my friend, is almost certainly your clutch burning. Try altering your techique, or when you get stuck, instead of trying to get out, just get your fellow wheelers to give you a tow!!!! A bit of lost pride is less expensive than a new clutch, and that is one of the hardest situations on a clutch, that repeated engaing and dissengaging between forward and reverse under load makes the lineing get hot and start to burn. Leads to clutch failure in no time at all!!!

When i put my voltage meter in mine, i found a couple of loose wires under the steering column that had terminals on them, but were not connected to anything. They also were directly connected to the ignition switch, if you hunt around there some where you will find somthing that will work. How about this: No matter what you do, you are going to have to install a relay, so the main draw from the fan comes directly from the battery, so, any thing in the engine bay that runs constantly once the ignition is turned on will do as the switching source wire for the relay, but i reccomend you use the wire directly from the steering column as the switching wire, as it is possibly the most reliable source.

Got those rough dimesions for ya: 900mm long (bell housing to fan) 600mm wide(intake manifold accross to exhaust manifold) 750mm high (bottom of sump to top of air intake) 575mm from bottom of block to top of rocker cover if you built your own intake and sump. You would have real problems with the sump on a transplant i think, as you would have to build your own to fit around the IFS set up, and not to mention the fact that it has to hold 9 liters of oil!!!!

Ah, there you have the catch!!! You see a v8 has two banks of 4 cylinders side by side, so technically it is the same length of a 4cylinder engine. The TD 42 being a straight 6 is half the length again of the 4cylinder. If you want, as im curious about this my self, i will do a rough measure up of the engine, and then the engine bay. Interesting to see if the possibility is really there to do it!!! I honestly think its way to long!!!! Not to mention heavy!!! Maybe some serious suspension beafing up my need to be done. As for being clean, if you catch the mud before it has time to get a good bake, and you use plenty of silicone spray, it stays pretty clean, look at the hood lining!!!