Diesel Boy

The other spin on the locker thing is the rear end is "generally" stronger, due to the lack of CV joints, and when climbing hills a rear locker is the go. Fronts are better for climbing banks, river driving, open road driving, bogs, making up for lack of sus travel etc etc. On the sus travel, i can't decide on that one my self. One half of me says yes you lift a front more than a rear in an IFS vehicle, so a front locker. The other half says well if you lift a front wheel and both the back are still in full contact with the ground, then surely it would be more beneficial in the back seeing as you have two wheels still able to grip somthing. Albeit, there will be bugger all weight on one of them. Both work the same in my mind. Pete. Go the Holden conversion!!! I nearly did one in my Surf!! I reckon with the Coversion and the MK/GQ bits in the front you have a better set of wheels than i have !!!! The GQ's just to farken big, i get wedged in the Rollux ruts!!!!! That and you need 35's to get the same clearence at the diff head as you would get on yours with 32's. Club rules are 33. Suck arse!!!!!

Don't see why not!!! Flexi air hose is all you need. You have trhe round airfilter on top of the motor right?? Run the flexi hose from the inner gaurd to your aircleaner inlet. Simple. If the inlet is not round, then weld a round section onto the end. You would have to do that for an aftermarket snorkel any way.

Haha, I'm with Vicks on this one!!! You wanna take a good look at his Finder!!!! Its coils all round, solid front end, buick motor and the list goes on!!!!! It is BUILT!!!!!! Its common knowledge that PVC pipe is Sh1t for making snorkels from. Its way to brittle and brakes the first branch that hits it. You better option would have been to make it from Stainless. Like he points out, cutting a hole in your gaurd for somthing that is going to last 5mins off road is maddnes. Sure you have to cut a hole for the proper snorkel, but the one you cut for the PVC special will be in the wrong place. So your screwed when you brake it!!!! As for the picture some one drew of their water catch system. WTF?? That holes going to be in the inner gard?? So why don't you just leave your standard intake on?? It draws from about the same level as your drain hole. Serioulsy!!!! Siting stuck in a puddle, or river the water is going to enter the intake from that point. You havn't improved you wading depth at all, just butchered your gaurd. Now as for hat. If any of you had bothered to do any reaserch into snorkels before you decided to throw one together, or start flaming each other, you would have read that the hat on the snorkel is what seperates the water from the air. The water collects in the back of the hat and runs out through holes, the air goes straight into the snorkel. Five mins on the airflow site and you would have read that. No sh1t about not spending the $$ on a special hat for your hame made wonder, get a section of larger diameter PVC pipe and use that. So this is what this site has come to. Bagging people because their rig is better than yours, or they use British terminology to describe things. Take a good look at your selfs. Its Pathetic. Pissed off. Pete.

haha, The Bang Bus

Doesn't that just drive ya nuts!!!! Bet ya he wasn't reallty all that helpfull with the whole deal as well. I really wonder about those Coopers. They are supposed to be a really good hard wearing 40 to 50,000K tire. Seriously, in my mind at least, this is how i would be thinking about it. BFG, most aggressive. STT, As good as the MTR at least, but not quite as aggressive as the BFG MTR, Perhaps slighly less aggressive, but a total of $115 cheaper than the other two over all. One thing i will say about the BFG is that they have a very very straight stiff side wall, and they are hard to make bag, unless you run extremely low pressures and tubes. I still have my mind set on the MTR.

Im not sure about the MQ/Mk. I have heard bad things about the OZ made Lokka brand, i was told in no uncertain terms to go for the Detroit. Heres the threads we have been disscussing the issue on: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/...der=asc&start=0

I have been led to believe it is a particular modle these:

When they rebuilt the motor they wouldn't have cleaned the old blowby oil from the turbo pipe. I tell ya, it is just an acumulation of oil vapour caused by blow by. A diesel no matter how new or old has a heavy amount of blow by. It is very common in Terrano's, take a close look at jumpers pics and avatar, you can see the oil around his pipes seeping through the mud in his engine bay. Clean the pipes out and make sure the clamps are tight. Get the EGR dissconnected at some stage in the future. The turbo will be fine, it would blow billows of blue or white smoke if it was shot. Trust me, they are a hitachi turbo, and they are almostr indestructable!!!!! Its $700 for a rebuild kit for them. If you live near Hamilton, take it to Turbo Diesel and Automotive in Frankton, they know there Nissan motors!!!!

Central Otago , NZ. It was an Offroad-Express.com organised trip i believe. Rest of the Pic's Here

Hey Jumper, what are you paying for the Cooper STT'S?? How do they compare price wise to the MTR?? I like the look of the STT's, slighly more aggresive than the MTR, but with more side wall tread than the BFG. Being a Cooper tyre i would have thought it would be pretty pricey. I can get the MTR's for $300.

1989 Nissan GQ Patrol/Safari That is an awsome job you did with the SAS!!! I didn't realise that you had to swap the diff head round though!!!! My Safari will have a small amount of Pathfinder in it soon, the Rear LSD from the Pathfinder fits my front diff, so together with my Detroit in the back, and the tweaked up LSD i might start to get a little ground back on those rock crawling boys

Better side wall tread, wear slightly better, and the guys on outerlimits4x4 have convinced me

MTR!!!!

Haha, you'l have to post some pics when you get the new tyres on, it'll be one of the few in NZ!!!!!

Hey. I should just point out know that i understand what you are trying to say but you have explained it back to front and probably the wrong way round as well!!! What you are saying is: 1: When you start the engine from cold, the fan is drawing air through the radiator, the fan clutch is engaged. 2: Sometimes the fan stops drawing, or rather the fan clutch dis-engages the fan, after half a mile or more, but on other occasions keeps working for alot longer, even though the engine temp is still cold. 3: You hear a squeaking sound when the fan clutch is engaged and the fan is working. When it stops, the squeak goes away. Am i right with that?? I would be instantly suspicious of the fan clutch. Was it an aftermarket one or genuine?? Try re-tentioning your fan belt, you should have around 10mm of movement in the belt at its longest point between pullys. The top of the belt should also sit up above the top lip of all of the pullys it goes through, not sunk down inside the "V", If the top of the belt is level or lower than the top lip of the pully, its time to replace. That could be your squeak. Jagged edges on your fan blades could also be wistleing as the fan spins under load, but i doubt it!!! The fans not catching on the radiator shroud any where is it???

I presumed you must have been trying to reverse back accross after not managing to climb out on the opposite back and got stuck in the loose shingle!!!!

Just a thought, if your radiator hose seemed fine when you put it back on after you had the engine out, it may indicate its time for a new radiator cap, it may have let the pressure in the cooling system get to high.

Just out of interest for you, it is normal to have more free play in the steering box with the wheels turned than with them straight ahead. Not a whole lot more though. I would get your wheel alignment redone, they may have messed it up when they set it after your crash. Following/wandering over the road is a sure sign the camber is out, probably on the negative side. Get that checked before you do any replacing of parts i reckon!!!

Saying that, my Simex's measured at 33.4" and they worked with a 2" sus lift, with some rubbing, so give it a go, if they not going to be your daily running around tyres, you can live with it. Just buy the darn things and start making them fit i reckon. It can be done.

Albundy, the U-Boat comander!!! Two words: BODY LIFT!!!!!!

It would be sweeeeeeeeet!!!! There's plenty off power there to turn them. Hell, people put 33's on 2.8 diesel Hilux's and we all know how sporty those motors are!!!!

A combination of slowing down on the brakes and dropping down through the gears is always going to be the winner here

Wow. Have you ever thought to dyno it?? It would be intersting!! Thats the biggest thing with a Japanese diesel, get them breathing properly, and then they will perform. You have gone all the way with that one, so performance improvements on the dyno would definatly be note worthy!!!!! Pete.

Do you have the electric mirrors in you Path?? If you pull the control unit off with the toggle leaver thingy for adjusting the mirrors, the place for your hard body style E.Brake is behind that. Cool huh!!! Well thats in the ones with the square shaped dash any way, is that up to 93 or 94??, not sure Pete.

Oil spray underneath for the salt??? Reuse old engine oil mixed with kerosene in an old spray gun. Thats what i do, they don't use salt over here, but the paint on the chassis gets worn off very quicky due to the 4wheeling, then in the salt air, rusts straight away. Oil spray every few months seems to work well.