Diesel Boy

Just cos no one else pointed it out, but that kit he mentioned, the 3" costom lift kit, he said it had 1.5" lift coils!!!. Either theres a set of 1.5" body lift blocks to install along with the springs(whats the point in only going 1.5" on a body lift, all that work you might as well go more!!) or that kits a total scam!!! You can't get 3" of lift out of springs that are only rated as 1.5" lift. Right???

Duuno what the consensus of opinion is here, but its an age old debate!!! Personaly i prefer the manual now, as you can leave all the peadals along and drive with no feet in tight going, as opposed to having to do complicated brake and throttle opperations with left and right feet at the same time to get somthing simlar to engine braking. Its fun to start with, but you soon get sick of it. Biggest thing i liked about auto was being able to lock it in to 2nd low and use all that gentle torque from the torque convertor to get you out of soft of slippery conditions. Its also very gentle on the drive train. The only problem was like i said, i really didn't like not being to idle around, over, up, down, accross........ things at 600 rpm just moving the steering. I have realised just how important it is to be able to do that!!! One other advantage of an auto is that if you get stuck in a river or mud theres no clutch to get wet and start slipping!!!!

The classic, "Hmmm, where do we cross???" picture.

Wireing was fine, no computer for the engine. Door seals must have been good because the only water that came in was around the rubber boot that the transfer lever goes through in the floor. Water only really seems to come in if you get stuck and sit there for a short while as the rope is being run out to you. I have had my Toyota Hilux ute at work stuck in puddle of really watery mud and coal fines, had to climb out the window, and buy the time i got some one in a 6o tonne digger to pull me out there was black watery coaly muddy crap nearly over the the seats!!! Still ran fine, and still does. I think its mainly the computer that doesn't like water. I quite often take my carpets out to before i go on trips up rivers!!! I have a really good video of that particular trip, buts its on a tape. You see the Terrano enter the river, get deeper and deeper, then start to float and get picked up by the swift current, see me working the steering wheel on to full opposite lock to try to stop the back end comming round, the spray from the exhust as it forces through the water at full revs, the the front end bites and it hauls its self up the bouldery bank. Wish there was some way i could let you see it!!!!!! Its awesome. Some of the other crossings are really good, especially the ones where you get stuck on a boulder mid dtream or somthing!!!

Mine came like that stock, the front diff and transfercase went to the back corner of the engine bay, and the rear breather went in to the sealed tubular section of the chassis infront of the fuel tank. (it looked like a sealed section) Believe me i have been through some deep rivers with that thing, like the water line showing a couple of inches up the door windows with hood completely submerged. When your in a crossing like that for a good 30 to 40 seconds, thats plenty of time for water to get in to every thing there is to get water into. When i got home from this trip, after three days of driving up this particular braided river, i checked all the transmission oils expecting them all to need changing. They were fine. So i recommend you leave them as they are, they do the job exceptionally well!!! Pete.

Does it have a greese nipple on the to of it?? Is that what you mean, its hard to see in the photo. My thoughts are that if the rubbers look good, then put a couple of pumps in, but no more, as they must have had to much greese in them for it to ooze out like that i guess. You could have burst a rubber. If they have nipples on the top of the joints, then its likely if you don't do your sevicing your self, that the mechanic gave them a bit of a grease and put to much in, and its just the greese oozing out around the bottoms of the rubbers. That is the most likely reason. So on that note, don't greese them, but just check they are ok. Don't want you to damage the ball joints from not enough greese because of me!!!!!

Then again, you could have just run through a blob of greese on the road with out noticing, like out of a truck or something, not impossible either. The red colour is unusual thats all!!!

My first thought is to check your CV boots and all your rubbers around your ball joints. More likely your ball joints than CV boots, as i have never seen red Molly CV greese before. Not impossible though. Rubber greese is quite often red, but where that would have come from other than the brake calipers is beyond me. No, most likely the ball joints me thinks. Does happen when give a ponding off road if they have been greased recently. Any one else got ideas?? Pete.

Yep, pull of both of the rubber hoses that go to the standard cooler and discgard. Mount the new cooler where ever you want it to be, run the hoses that come with the new cooler down to the cooler lines from the gear box and plug them in. Simple as that.

Definatly post that!!! Shame about 1st gear though, that would be really good for engine breaking down steep decents in 1st low!!!

Didn't think of that. My initial thoughts are that you would still be fine, you just may need to supply the computer to go with the trans.

If the 95 is still a WD21 chassis and a VG whatever engine, It should bolt straight in.

Good man!!!!!

What more could you ask for?? Sounds perfect to me, if any thing your thermostat may be opening a little early, it should stay around the middle of the gauge all the time, not just under high load. A littlle on the cold side of half way for normal running, and a little on the hot side of half way under high load is normal. Mid way on the gauge is an indication that the engine has warmed up to its optimum opperating temp, and it should reach that point with in about 5mins of driving in normal conditions. Don't loose any sleep over this one, but i must say full credit for being aware of minor changes in the behaviour of your engine!!! Pete.

I'd say: NEVER AGAIN WILL I EVER GO NEAR ONE!!!!! They are useless for anything but high way use, and even then they are still crap!! If you run one for a while (1000Km's or so)then pull it off, wipe your finger around the inside of the intake, after the filter and look at your finger. Gauranteed there will be a smudge of dust on your finger. No matter how much you oil them it still does the same. The filter matrix is just to coarse, they made sacrafices in order to increase airflow. Read the write up on their web site, its very good and accurate, and note that the smallest particulate size they test with is still quite large, when compared with what a paper filter will filter out. A paper filter is still the ultimate in filtering out dust and dirt, a foam filter a very very very close second. Air filters are always a hot topic to debate because every one uses their vehicle differently.

Remove the broken tap and if you have no luck with a heli coil, forget about the threaded end in the block either just buy a smaller diameter high tensile bolt with a nut or a longer bolt of the origional diameter and drill out whats left of the threaded end in the block. Go the whole way through the two casings with the bolt and put the nut on the other end. Better than leaving nothing there at all!!! In fact its probably just as good as the origional configuration any way if theres room to do it!!

Beautifull!!!!

Think this would be good at the top of Garage section like allthat other important stuff???

Time to put the ECU in a sealed plastic box under the seat!!! A simple lunch box and some silicone sealent to seal around where the wires go and the mounting points work well!!!!

That was gonna be my comment, the trailing edge looks prone, but a bit of trial and error will probably prove me wrong!!

Trying to figure out what part of the world you live in, but with a user name like madkiwi must mean an NZ connection somewhere along the line. If so i know where to source the blocks and bolts locally. About $110 including shipping. Pete.

Ok, im supprised at this because the instructions are very simple and clear, but they don't state that the light flashes the sequense over and over with a short break in between each group of ten flashes. The second time you must have messed up a step in the diagnosis procedure. Try it again, you can't do any damage. Pete.

Ive just been following this with interest. So why not just do intake and exhaust, and then a Link or Link plus computer, from there you can dyno it and program all the fuel and ingnition curves to suit, you could even get and airflow meter controller. These are all really simple and not that expensive to do, it may not make that HP figure much bigger, but you will deffinatly notice increase to throttle response, torque and spread of power through the rev range. I havn't driven many V6's, but from what i have noticed is that they only really work in a certain rev range, top end they drop off and the bottom end is pretty dead, by altering all the curves on a dyno with the link, you can get her working at her best. Anyway, just what i would do if more power was what i was after. Pete.

Sounds like it wants to grow up to be a diesel!!

Sitting at the lights with the clutch engauged should not wear the friction plate as it is dissconnected from the the fly wheel. If it wasn't you would need to keep your foot on the brake to stop it from creeping forward. The idea behind a clutch is to dissconnect the drive line from the engine completely, the wear caused to the friction plate happens during the engaging and diss-engaging process of the clutch as it transfers drive from the engine to the transmission. The problem with keeping the clutch engaged when sitting is that it puts constant load on the pressure plate springs which they are not designed to handle. This inturn makes the springs operation weak, supplying less pressure to the friction plate, makeing it slower to grab the fly wheel as the cluch is diss-engaged, allowing more slippage, and there for a higher wear rate of the friction plate. On a different note the most common cause, second to abusive driving style, of premature clutch wear is a miss-alignment of the clutch when it is installed. Hope that helps, Pete.