Diesel Boy

I'LL see what i can find for ya. Should be heaps around, and they are lite, so shipping should be cheap. I'll get back to ya after the Christmas break when every one is open and fully staffed again Pete.

Pull the wheel off and have a look around for under there for anything that looks polished from rubbing.

Hey man. Havn't seen you round on the board much, so i thought i would let you know i'm running a 3 day trip in January over here on the coast. If ya want more info check out the trip out line at Off Road Express. Link: http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/modules.ph...pic&p=3251#3251 The more the merrier i guess, See ya round, Pete.

Hi, so the engine is not turning over??? The Battery is good, and you can hear all the usual clicks as the glow plugs work?? The Starter motor is on the same side of the engine as the battery, if you are in USA it will be the passengers side. Located at the back of the engine attached to the bell housing obviously. Best viewed from underneath the vehicle!!!

This probably what you should really be using!!! http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/modules.ph...&products_id=28

Universal joints in the front drive shaft would be my first place to look. Pack em with greese and see if it improves.

Hey, how are ya going?? I'm one of the few NZ members. Based over on the "Coast" (Westport). Used to have a R3M Terrano, sold it about four or five months ago for a Safari. I wonder if any one has seen it around Christchurch, thats where i traded it. Airflow snorkel, 2" lift, flexi flares, no sway bars ( they are sitting in my garage still if you know any one that wants them!!) and it was that metalic safari green. Do you get the NZ 4X4 mag?? Check out the winner this month in the photo comp. Yep, that was me As for tire size regulations, well: YOU CAN RUN WHAT EVER SIZE TIRE YOU CAN FIT UNDER THE GUARDS!!! The only regulation is that the tyre must be completelyenclosed with in the guard. So if you want to run rims with a large off set, you have to put flares on the guards. Check out the photo, 32" Simexe's rubbed a little, but where fine. Any time you guys are heading this way give me a PM, i may join ya as a guest for the trip. Im also in both the Nelson and Buller 4X4 clubs. See ya round, Peter. The beast. I miss her!!!! The replacement. Nothing but trouble. The list of repairs over the last few months is incredible!!

Thats exactly what SW's up to at the mo, Buick and all, maybe PM him??

Just curious, but i didn't see it say they were stretchy any where in the add?? So that would indicate they are tow straps as opposed to recovery/snatch straps yah?? If so, i would just like to say that you should be very carefull using them for snatch syle recoveries from mud etc, as the shock loading on your tow points will be very similar to that of using a chain!!!! A flying tow hook. Not good. What you really want to keep your eyes open for are nylon stretchy snatch straps, they absorb the shock created as the rope comes under tention from the towing vehicles run up, and then the recoil action of the stretch in the rope assists in freeing the vehicle. You feel no hard jolt, just a gental acceleration as you are snatched from what ever you are stuck in. My two cents, Peter.

If you can find one over there in the US, it will bolt right up. You would need a whole raft of other stuff to make it work, like the dash module particularly for the rev counter guage, all the fuel system from the tank to the engine, you may get away with the existing wiring loom, just plumb in the glow plug and timer system, water sensor, fuel cut of solenoid and rev counter independantly. Could be done. Ring around, get some idea of what it would cost to get and auto electritian to do it. TD27 2.7l 4cycl Make sure you get the turbo model, the TD27t, the straight TD27 is highl unimpressive!!!

Airfilter, then MAF, then electrics (pump/moduels/computers), then fuel system(lines/pickups/injectors etc), then mechanical(head gaskets/distrubutor drive/rings/valves....) Its always best to start with simple things first. Go through the disposables like you filters and pick screensetc. Then the through the catagories/systems that make up an engine. Start with electrical, its the weakest link of the three. Then check the fuel system, its next in line, And finally go for the mechanical. If you follow that rule, problem solving becomes easy, as you can system matically work your way through the engine and management systems.

Worst case, buy the trans computer as well, the wiring loom is apparently the same, just the computer can be programmed differently. At least thats the way it is over here with our imported ones.

Thanks, I've had a think, i reckoni just get a temp switch from a parts shop, any one will do as long as it opperates at the correct temperature for my engine, which im in the process of finding out. A radiator repairer will be able to put a mounting in my radiator so i can screw the switch in. Then all i need is a 24volt relay which i have already and the im all go. Should work ya reckon???

I know a few of you to date have installed Electric Fans. I am going to replace my erratic Viscious Fan on the Safari with an electric one. So far i can get two 12" fans for $NZ150.00. I need two as they are 12volt and my system is 24volt, so by wiring them up in series i will be able to run them directly from the system. It gets complicated otherwise. Besides, theres plenty of room for them side by side!!! Initially i was going to run them all the time, so when you turn the ingnition on, the fans come on, as the kits don't have temperature switches with them. That would be fine, but then what happens if you do water crossings?? You don't want the fans running thats for sure!!! I thought that i suppose you could just get out and unplug them, then plug them back in, but the novelty of that would soon wear of and i would get lazy!! The other idea was to have a switch in the cab to turn them on and off. At the end of the day the risk of not turning them back on or bumping the switch and distroying the engine through overheating is way to high!!! So i remember some one saying that they got a adjustable temperature switch on ebay when they put theres in. Any one recall that?? I searched a bit but could not find the thread. I also suck at ebay surfing, so where abouts would i look?? Had a look under cooling in ebay motors, but nothing special there really. Any thoughts?? What are they worth roughly?? They guy who can supply the fans said that a themostatically controlled fan would be around $NZ500. WTF!!!!!! I had for some reason been thinking that you guys had paid about $US16 for the switch or somthing like that??? Cheers, Pete.

I see!!! Glad i asked, Cheers!!

By the way, what funky things does the kit supply in the way of Transfercase crossmember spacers or what ever to correct the drive line angles and correct the sine wave calculated vibration cancelling of the opposing universal joints which will deffinately start to create problems at those sort of angles. Sceptic huh

Dammit, i was thinking that the whole time i was writing the post, what if he is using the kit that drops the front crossmember down. Just out of curiosity then, simply for my own intrest, the 4" drop down kit doesn't require you to adjust the torsion bars at all?? All the lift is in the droping down of the crossmember and diff housing etc?? So at the back they supply you with new coils that raise the rear 4"?? So if you were to stack the two suspension lift kits together how exactly does that work?? The only way i can see you could stack is if the trailmaster kit involved a full 4" drop down at the front, leaving Torsion bars as they are, and then a pair of 4" spring spacers for the rear, retaining your OE springs. Then you could get the 3" lift kit with the new springs and Tbars and using the spring spacers, get the extra 3". Is that how it works?? Other wise i don't see anyone getting 7" out of either end with out getting some springs made to spec. Can't stack coils on top of each other!!!!! So now I've explained my thoughts, left my self wide open to reason, how does it work?? :confused:

No, other way round, the maximum lift you can get from a stock height WD21 is 3" on the suspension, as you run out of movement on the front end. As it is with a 3" the A arms will be hard up against the bumpstops. You can get more out of the back as 88 keeps doing, but the front end is very limited. A 4" body lift and 3" suspension lift is the best you can do before you have serious issues with alsorts of things. Won't go into detail. So in that case you can still run stock shocks, but they do make Rancho's to accomodate the extra travel possible in the rear, as for the front, well whats the point??? Its never going to travel more than it did fresh from the factory!!

Jeeze, and i complain about $NZ45 an hour!!!!

On that note, why not make up your own brackets out of flat 3mm plate. All it has to do really is spread the load through the rear quater pannel. Soooo, in theory if you cut out some plates from the 3mm sheet of steel, left then as flate plates they should spread the load as well as any floating braket supplied as OEM. Im mean, you could even put some bends in it with a vice and spot weld it to the inner wall in the boot if you wanted. Crazy idea i know, but worth looking at maybe???

Man, these are all such minor problems you guys are complaining about!!! Im amazed every time i here on this sight that a vehicle has run 2k+ miles and thats all you've had to do to it. AMAZING!!!!!

Sweet as, no pressure!!!! Their there thats all, im taking them up to Ham any way, easier to sell up there, so no loss to me either way!!! By the way, $275 for 10,000k's, i just bought some last week!! Peter.

LOL,LOL!!! True, and I suppose theres always a chance the oil on the fan motor is empty and its not turning the heads properly because the valving on the thermostat is preventing the air from circulating through the torque convertor leaving a lack of vacum in the anti detonation compression chamber. That would definatly be the cause for sure!!!

Ya what??? That theory really deserves to be explained!!!!!!!

Yep, that would work!! There all still there, and I'll keep them for you. Hubs, yep its for the set. Ferry car park would be good. Give me a ring on 021433135, or post your No. and i'll call you and we can sort it out. Im open to offers, its all only worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it!!!!! After all, it is used (not very used) but that makes all the difference in what you can expect to get for it second hand.