Diesel Boy

Can you please do some kind of write up on the hard bits you found and the problems and solutions you came up with?? I keep thinking about doing a lift but then wuss out. I worry about stuff like radiator mounts, what happens to the brake lines to the master cyclinder, the fuel lines to the engine bay etc. I wonder if there are any specific things that may couse problems with the diesel set up. I would really like to hear how you got on!!!!! Pete.

What are the actual body spacers made from??

WOW!!! I need to get me a credit card and get some stuff online!!! Thats still cheap even with the exchange rate taken into account!! Wonder if i could source right hand drive components??

By the way, how are those swampers wearing?? My centipedes haven't even done 1000km's and they are showing signs of wear!!

Man, this posts old, but just a observation: How in hell did you manage to get the rims to fit on the rear??? Are you sure they bolted down securley?? The center of the hub at the back is raised and is the same diameter as the hubs at the front. You guys know what i mean!!! There for the rear might go on but won't be safe to drive on!!! That means you need to get the centers of all four rims enlarged!!! Just an observation. Pete.

Yeah, doesn't look half bad does it!!!!!!!!!

Right. Thanks. Next on the list after replacing CV boots. Plenty of rubber conveyor belt around here at work!!

Cheers, thanks for that. I think part numberrs are specific to brands. So no, i got Fargo kevlar boots, and they had there own specific numbers. Thanks again, i don't feel like im going in cold any more!!!

Show me the spring spacers!!! I've been thinking about those for a while. Whe loaded with all my recovery gear my new coils sag and make it an inch lower than the front, so if i space it out an inch , it will sit level when loaded. Or somthing like that. Just wondering if i can make some.

Can you please show me how you mounted the base?? You did say bolted i know, but still.......... Is it the equivilant of a 20 litre jerry can?? Just curious on the load bearing properties of this design.

Hey guys, now this is what im talking about!!!!! Thats some real usefull stuff. So the wheel bearings remain unaffected. Good. I have manual hubs. Good. Inner CV has to be unbolted. Good. Then remove hub and shaft slides out. Thats the basics that i needed to know. Thanks heaps, i was going to ask for a scan of an exploded diagram just to get my head around it, but comparing it to what i have seen when i did the boots on my old Hilux Surf(coughs) it should be ok. So the only bit that seems odd to me is this end seal, but i will deal with that when i get to it. Thanks guys. Very greatfull. Pete. P.S I hate doing wheel bearings!!!!!!

Diesels gone up to $NZ0.80 per litre from $NZ0.59 last year!!

And you guys have Frenzal Rhomb who are based in Melbourne!!!!!!

ROGER>

Thanks guys. One question though: Talking about the inner joint, does the half shaft slide straight out of the joint?? This is what im thinking. If i detatch the hub assembly from both upper and lower A arms, release the tie rod end ball joint, i would be able to with draw the shaft from the inner CV joint complete with the hub assembly. Then i just slide the outer boot off up the shaft, and so on. It all hinges on weather you can pull the shaft out of the inner CV, which you must be able to do in order to get the boot on and off. It may make repacking the the joints more difficult, but it leaves the wheel bearings alone and torsion bar alone. Does it sound like that may work??

Frenzal Rhomb Lagwagon Mad Caddies No Fun At All Death By Stereo.

I ripped one of mine at the weekend, so going to replace the lot. Any chance of a description of how you did it?? Just if you get the time mind!! Pete.

Im gona ask.

So what, a lock rite will fit in an LSD?? Please say yes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Got your PM. I would be interested to know aswel which fit. Logic says they should be universal between the models, but like any thing Japanese they vary alot between models. I would cover all the options, or at least if you go to some where like Repco they have a good computer cataloge system and they can give you the dimensions of the boot. In fact the easyest way is to ring the shop which supplied you with the boots, say you want boots for the diesel, when they find the part number for the ones you want, check that against the part number for the boots you have. If the part number is different, and its the same brand of boots then you know you have the wrong ones. Simple as a phone call. If they don't have the same brand of boots, get them to compare part numbers between the 4cyl, V6 and diesel with in the same brand. If the numbers the same between them or what ever you have your answer. Pete.

Very clever with the plug wire!!! way to go man!!!

Yep, thats the fit im talking about!!! Should still run smoothly with out jerking though!!!! Pete.

Sounds to me like the engine is miss-fireing at low revs under load and causing the vehicle to jerk. Does that sound more possible?? It is almost impossible that the trans could slip in such a mannor. It either drives or it doesn't. Won't be the clutch as that would not cause a jerk. Check electrical components of engine, especially the condition of the plugs and size of the spark. Also fuel system and filter. Process of elimination remember!! Cheers, Pete.

I had abit of time to reflect on T bars. I decided to keep the stock one as they were softer and alowed easier artic in the front. The after market heavier oes were just ti stiff in the vehicles i've seen. But im sure mine have sagged since i got my lift springs in the back and it set up level. Who knows, i give up with the bloody things!!!!

Right. An indepth discussion of how the modification performs. In most ways it does exactly what i wanted it to do. You drive completely as normal with the lock up switched on. Thats good in its self as you haven't lost any thing by doing it. If you then turn the lock up off, you get 1 - D plus over drive. Thats good as well. Makes climbing hills alot quicker!!! And winding roads through gorges alot smoother!! You have lock up switched of, then you hit a nice fast piece of road, flick lock back on and you can cruise. Want to pass? turn lock up off and boot it!! This is were it gets tricky. I usually use the hold switch on hills and when over taking to stop it kicking down to 3rd and reving (being a diesel revs = noise and almost zero accelleration). In stead using the hold switch you can floor the b1tch and it'l use all that wonderfull torque. Thats were being able to get O.D with out lock up is so great. You can really make her work, with out having to make her rev, which is how you drive a diesel. Before i put the lock up switch in you could use the hold switch and between 60 and 100km/h it would stay in O.D, flicking out of lock up as as you dropped past 80 mark, but only if you had the pedal down passed the point where it actuates the kick down switch. As soon as you crept over 80 it would lock up again, then your speed would reduce again because the gear was to high for the hill, drop back past 80 and come out of lock up. And so on and so on. SOOOO, with this switch you can click hold, click lock up off, floor it and fly up the same hill at 120km/h. I was amazed, my partner asked what could SHE do to make me grin like that After a bit of messing around while driving on long trips, i noticed that if you have lock up switched of and kick down for what ever reason, the next time you go to turn lock up back on it isn't there. For some reason the computer reads an error and disables it. Fair enough. Its all back to normal next time you start the vehicle. This is how i use it now: Normal driving leave lock up switched on. As lock up is only a pain in the a$$ in situations like i mentioned before, where i would normally be using the hold switch, i now still use hold but can control what the computer does with lock up. I also keep the lock up off all the time when running the Centipedes, they really effect the gearing!!! I have yet to ring up the Trans shop to see if there is a way round this kick down thing. I doubt it though. The switch has no bearing on any of the normal functions on the trans other than this little trick it plays for the unwary!! Cheers, Pete.