Diesel Boy

By the way, did those bits and pieces you got from me in September work as they should have?? I was a little worried about the maunual hubs having the correct spline count!!

For $270 and the amount of work thats involved in pulling it out etc, personaly i think its not worth it, you may dissagree.

Do the sheet test now, just to be sure. If your good with tools and logic, you can try this: Pretty good page on rebuilding a viscous fan: http://www.off-road.com/~estegall/tech/fan.../fanclutch.html and the part number for the oil from Toyota: Silicon oil P/N 08816-03001. It took about 3 bottles at $20 a bottle for the Safari. There is abit more to it than that page lets on. You have to drain the resoviour in the hub of all the old oil else the fan ends up working non stop. The resoviour is on the half with the bi-metal strip attached, not the half that has the shaft to the waterpump. I t may be worth trying, as the viscous hub does not come of the water pump, so you have to buy a new water pump and viscous hub assembly, which i bought for mine at a cost of $270 from Parts Master when i lived in Hamilton

Just glycol anti freeze, mix to the specs on the pack, or buy the premixed. Its more dependent on the product than the vehicle i believe. Like you canby a 1 litre bottle of concentrate which you mix with six litres of water, or by a four litre pack of premixed stuff.

All that mud hasn't caused it to throw a belt has it?? I'm sure you would have noticed!!!!

Im not sure, but i would be thinking of some way to heat it probably.

Checked your engine oil level??

Fair comment, but not quite as accurate perhaps??? A sh1t load easier though!!!!!

Here's a simple viscous test: When the engines cold, get a big pastic sheet of some sort (any thing that will not alow air to pass through it will do) and open the bonnet, wedge one end under the bonnet, drape it down over the grille, and tuck the other end in around the sump gaurd area. The idea being to block as much air flow to the radiator as possible. It realy needs to span right out to the corners of the vehicle, covering the headlights etc. Start the engine and run it on the hand throttle at about 2000rpm, keep a eye on the temp guage, and listen for the fan to come in, it should start roaring and suck the plastic sheet into the grille with a fair bit of force. It is acceptable for the fan to come in just over half way, and switch of again as the temp drops back past/under half way. Let us know what you find happens. My other thought is that it is more than possible the Japanes boys in there airconditioned office didn't think about the heat of the Carribean(sp) when they were giving the cooling system design its final ok. We get NZ new Nissan Navaras, which are the equivelant of the USA Hardbody, and the Utility version of the Pathfinder and Terrano. Over here, and in Australia the TD27t modles of these Navara's come out with a 10" electric cooling fan on front of A/C condensor, providing the cooling system with that little bit extra. On our Japanese imports, the first thing we change is the thermostats, especially on Turbo Charged Diesels, as they straight away start cracking heads and exhaust manifolds. They have a cooler climate than we do here, so i think we use a thermostat that opens fully 10 degrees earlier than what they come over with. Anyway................... See what happens when you do the test, Pete.

Thats perfectly normal, the A/C condensor sit directly in front of the radiator, and produces alot of heat. Are you sure your viscous fan is doing its job properly??

Hehe, this is a very comon mistake made by a lot of people. You are going to have to: Find a high pressure/high volume hose (try the warf) Take the radiator out again blast the sh1t out of the fins untill the water is passing through them at a similar pressure to whats coming out the hose. Then the most important bit. Get inside the engine bay with the hose and from the rear, blast the water through the Air conditioning condensor. You can not take it out with out loosing all the gas from it, and it sits infront of the radiator and gathers 90% of the sh1t that comes in through the front end. Comonly over looked by people. It looks just like another small radiator. Take your time replacing the coolent, when you think the radiators full, and you have the header tank filled to the full mark, take it for a spin, get it hot, not warm, then come back and let it cool for an hour or so. Then take the cap of, fill it up if its down, and top up the header tank. That should see you right. While you have the radiator out, make sure the bi-metal strip of the front of the viscous fan is mud and dirt free. This will prevent the fan from coming in at the right time. Its little coil like looking thing in the middle of the fan hub. See if that works, get back to me, Cheers, Peter.

I have one: Why didn't you just get a Patrol?? No, seriously, are you considering a SAS at some stage?? Apparently the 720 P/U is a good donor vehicle. The P/U with the soild front end in of course.

Nah, he's in OZ, and yeah thats the donk he had in i think, the Z24 Carby one.

My bet is availability of a donor engine. He had the 4cycl. Thing is, that motor is producing those figures from stock. You can also pick one of those motors up in good cond for $NZ1500

Yes. I see what you mean!!! I'll throw them in a box and take them to the post office and get a quote. The lights cost me nothing, i helped a mate put his gearbox in. Roughly where in the states would they be going?? Pete.

Sweet, good to see it finally done!!! Getting the motor mounted is only half the job, getting every thing else mounted and set up is the rest of the job!!!! Looks very nicly finished off

I have got my hands on a set for you, they are sitting in my garage. What address would they be going to so i can get a price to ship?? I also have a mate who says he would swap his clear ones for a set of the orange ones, so i can get two sets if you can track down a set of orange ones to send over. See how ya go..... Pete.

If it was a carbed engine you would say the syptoms indicate the engine being starved of fuel when you punch it down. So you would look at the filter and float bowl. So as you are not getting any error codes, it suggests its not an electrical or sensor problem. It still could be, but technically if the computers doing its job, you shouldbe able to rule that side of things out. I didn't have a petrol pathy, so i can't give you specifics, but check your manual to see how the fuel tank vents/breaths. Either through the cap or through a seperate hose with a non return valve etc. Check that system is opperating properly. You need the air to enter the tank to replace the fuel as it is used otherwise the fuel pump trys to suck the petrol tank inside out, causing syptoms like you describe. In your manual under Spec's it should tell you what your fuel pressure should be, check that some how, or just have a look and see if its being pumped out in a good strong flow. Try bypassing the fuel filter. Fractured fuel line could be another cause. Just a couple of thoughts. Pete

I'LL see what i can find for ya. Should be heaps around, and they are lite, so shipping should be cheap. I'll get back to ya after the Christmas break when every one is open and fully staffed again Pete.

Pull the wheel off and have a look around for under there for anything that looks polished from rubbing.

Hi, so the engine is not turning over??? The Battery is good, and you can hear all the usual clicks as the glow plugs work?? The Starter motor is on the same side of the engine as the battery, if you are in USA it will be the passengers side. Located at the back of the engine attached to the bell housing obviously. Best viewed from underneath the vehicle!!!

This probably what you should really be using!!! http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/modules.ph...&products_id=28

Universal joints in the front drive shaft would be my first place to look. Pack em with greese and see if it improves.

Thats exactly what SW's up to at the mo, Buick and all, maybe PM him??

Just curious, but i didn't see it say they were stretchy any where in the add?? So that would indicate they are tow straps as opposed to recovery/snatch straps yah?? If so, i would just like to say that you should be very carefull using them for snatch syle recoveries from mud etc, as the shock loading on your tow points will be very similar to that of using a chain!!!! A flying tow hook. Not good. What you really want to keep your eyes open for are nylon stretchy snatch straps, they absorb the shock created as the rope comes under tention from the towing vehicles run up, and then the recoil action of the stretch in the rope assists in freeing the vehicle. You feel no hard jolt, just a gental acceleration as you are snatched from what ever you are stuck in. My two cents, Peter.