Diesel Boy

Next best thing to sourcing a front diff and a "T" case

Rims with bead locks are cheaper per rim than the second air per rim beleive it or not!!!! There must be some advantage in the second air system over the rim bead locks else they wouldn't sell any i guess.

I see your reading this Jumper, check out www.genie4x4.com, v v cheap!!!

Almost identical item to what you have ordered, hope it helps LOKKA can in most cases be fully installed by anyone capable with simple mechanical work in one to two hours. In these cases, no special setup is required since the crown wheel and pinion gears are not upset. No special tools, calibration equipment or expensive diff specialists are required just an installation manual and basic tool kit. Designed for failsafe operation and manufactured to exacting specifications from high strength, heat treated alloys for maximum toughness, LOKKA is a great choice for 4WD drivers who require maximum traction and durability. The key to the LOKKA's smooth performance is a function of the extremely low profile "driver and coupler" gear sets acting together with the advanced mechanical principal which causes the dynamic engagement and disengagement of the axles. In addition LOKKA's design allows it to relock almost instantaneously meaning that the locking and relocking happen quickly and without harsh noisy action. LOKKA's operation and effectiveness in comparison to other differentials is summarised below. Open Differentials and Limited Slip Differentials (LSD's) are designed to distribute enqine torque proportionately to the wheels, allowing the wheels to travel at different rotational speeds when cornering on hard road surfaces or travelling over very uneven ground. When turning on a hard surface, "open" and LSD differentials use the outside wheel to drive the vehicle, while the inside wheel is allowed to "differentiate" or travel a shorter distance around the turn. The very nature of their design however is detrimental in relation to their ability to deliver equal torque to both wheels, hence traction and 4WD off road ability is severely handicapped. LOKKA will perform the same as open and LSD differentials when the vehicle is driven under equal traction conditions, ie on road. The LOKKA allows the wheels to "differentiate" around the turn, but reverses the operation in that it transfers the engine torque (hence drive) to the inside wheel, rather than the outside wheel. Wheel slippage or a loss of traction can occur for many reasons offroad and include ; excess throttle, fast approach speeds, limited wheel travel and negotiation of obstacles that exceed suspension travel (especially independent front suspension vehicles), weight transfer off drive wheels and slippery surfaces such as mud, sand, snow, shale, wet grass etc. Under these circumstances both the normal and even LSD differentials will allow the wheels with the least resistance to spin. Thus the wheels with traction do not obtain any real drive and the vehicle will lose speed or stop. LSDs will assist under these circumstances but only if they are in good condition and only if there is enough resistance on the spinning wheels to activate the clutch pack and allow drive to the wheels with traction. Contrary to popular belief, even a new LSD will allow a lifted wheel to spin freely with no drive to the wheel with traction. The LOKKA drives both wheels except when the vehicle is turning on a hard surface, so that irrespective of suspension, transmission or engine type, all wheels are being driven equally therefore the vehicles traction (or 4WD offroad ability) is significantly improved. LOKKA eliminates excessive tyre wear and drive train damage common with other types of lockers, and prevents one wheel 'spin-up' and resultant possible axle sheer. Approach speeds can be lowered, allowing more controlled 4WD driving which reduces vehicle deterioration. Tracks are not degraded by wheel spin or by repeated attempts to negotiate a difficult obstacle, engine braking is improved and 4WD confidence is substantially improved by the increased ability of the 4WD to tackle difficult obstacles with safety. Due to its sensitive mechanism the LOKKA operates smoothly and is quiet in its operation. This results in one of the most important advantages of the LOKKA – Its ability to allow smooth differential action with almost uncompromised steering means that the vehicle can be steered to gain best advantage, unlike other lockers which limit a 4WD's path to a near straight line or can force a vehicle off line and make steering physically difficult if not impossible. The most significant feature about the operation of the LOKKA is the degree of smoothness and sensitivity with which the coupling and uncoupling is performed. The LOKKA Locker does not suffer from harsh noisy actions and vehicle twitching. This is acheived through the use of low profile teeth which have a gentle positive pitch and allow smooth, unrestricted uncoupling of the unit, importantly there is almost no backlash between the driver and coupler gears at all. These teeth are used in both coupling and uncoupling actions and have simplified the design by reducing the number of parts. This in contrast to other lockers which interlock for load transfer but have the side effect that the unlocking is hindered giving rise to the harsh characteristics and locking & unlocking effects How it works In comparison to other lockers LOKKA uses an amazingly simple method to couple the axles for maximum traction and to uncouple them for full differential action. ie as required when cornering or driving on hard surfaces. The actual principal of it's operation while easily demonstrated is difficult to explain in writing - but is as follows. 1. LOKKA has only 4 main parts - a pair of Driver and a Coupler (side) gears for each axle, there are some springs and pins, some have spacers. 2. LOKKA is normally in a fully locked state and only allows differential action by uncoupling the unit when the ground driven force acting on a wheel (either during turning or when negotiating obstacles) forces that wheel to turn faster than the other driven wheel. ie a turning vehicle's wheels actually travel two different paths with the inside wheel turning in one circle while the outside wheel travels in a larger circle, and therefore faster. 3. LOKKA makes use of two distinctly different sets of opposing forces that exist due to its design - one to dynamically couple the gears when engine torque is applied and the other to uncouple the gears when one wheel overruns. 3a. The locking (coupling) force is applied by the action of the pinion cross shaft acting on a uniquely designed and shaped Driver - the more torque that is applied the harder the unit locks. 3b. The unlocking (uncoupling) action occurs due to the ramping effect between the low profile ramped teeth which force the Driver away from the Coupler (side gear) eg when an outside wheel turns faster than than an inside wheel when cornering. Power continues to be applied to the inside axle. As the turn is completed and the wheels again rotate at the same speed, the outside coupler re-engages. 4. It should be understood that only when there is an external force being applied to a wheel to make it turn faster than the rest of the drive train will LOKKA allow one wheel to differentiate. Slippery surfaces where one wheel would normally break traction in an open diff cause LOKKA to stay locked - even with one or both wheels in the air LOKKA will remain locked. Pros LOKKA is a precision engineered true mechanical locker providing 100% traction. The design is ingeniously simple but extremely rugged and reliable. It doesn't have wear prone clutch mechanisms like limited slip differentials. LOKKA is easy to install - once referred to as the "45-minute locker", it can generally be fitted by the average do it yourself person capable of fitting brake pads. In terms of noise LOKKA is extremely quiet, it doesn't cause excessive tyre chirping and nor does it clank loudly as it locks or unlocks. LOKKA's low cost makes it one of the most affordable diff locker in the world. Use & Application LOKKA is suited to all 4WD applications except the front of some constant 4WD vehicles. They are in use in military, commercial and civilian vehicles and operate under some of the toughest terrain conditions imaginable. The design is well suited to high horsepower engine conversions such as the typical V8 engine conversions. The locker design prevents one wheel spin up common in open and LSD differentials which are the major cause of drive train and differential damage. Whether on road or offroad in mud, sand or hills the LOKKA performs especially well in areas which require maximum traction where fine steering control is needed. Its sensitive uncoupling gives almost uncompromised steering irrespective of fitment to the front or rear differentials.

Interesting, MQ's are leaf sprung. I recognise the radius arms from the GQ, and the same with a few other bits. Interesting that the width of the MQ axle is suitable!!! I have my doubts the GQ would be, and even so, the diff head is on the other side on the GQ. Steering components easily swaped over to left hand drive!!!

You see, what you do is put tubes in side your tubless tyres, enabling them to be run at very low pressures, and eliminating the risk of knocking the tyres of the bead, or getting debrie jamed in the bead causing a slow leak due to the low presures. Thats what i was getting at. Obviously its not common practice in tha states yet.

Um, does no one else run tubes???

By the way, did those bits and pieces you got from me in September work as they should have?? I was a little worried about the maunual hubs having the correct spline count!!

For $270 and the amount of work thats involved in pulling it out etc, personaly i think its not worth it, you may dissagree.

Do the sheet test now, just to be sure. If your good with tools and logic, you can try this: Pretty good page on rebuilding a viscous fan: http://www.off-road.com/~estegall/tech/fan.../fanclutch.html and the part number for the oil from Toyota: Silicon oil P/N 08816-03001. It took about 3 bottles at $20 a bottle for the Safari. There is abit more to it than that page lets on. You have to drain the resoviour in the hub of all the old oil else the fan ends up working non stop. The resoviour is on the half with the bi-metal strip attached, not the half that has the shaft to the waterpump. I t may be worth trying, as the viscous hub does not come of the water pump, so you have to buy a new water pump and viscous hub assembly, which i bought for mine at a cost of $270 from Parts Master when i lived in Hamilton

Just glycol anti freeze, mix to the specs on the pack, or buy the premixed. Its more dependent on the product than the vehicle i believe. Like you canby a 1 litre bottle of concentrate which you mix with six litres of water, or by a four litre pack of premixed stuff.

All that mud hasn't caused it to throw a belt has it?? I'm sure you would have noticed!!!!

Im not sure, but i would be thinking of some way to heat it probably.

Checked your engine oil level??

Fair comment, but not quite as accurate perhaps??? A sh1t load easier though!!!!!

Here's a simple viscous test: When the engines cold, get a big pastic sheet of some sort (any thing that will not alow air to pass through it will do) and open the bonnet, wedge one end under the bonnet, drape it down over the grille, and tuck the other end in around the sump gaurd area. The idea being to block as much air flow to the radiator as possible. It realy needs to span right out to the corners of the vehicle, covering the headlights etc. Start the engine and run it on the hand throttle at about 2000rpm, keep a eye on the temp guage, and listen for the fan to come in, it should start roaring and suck the plastic sheet into the grille with a fair bit of force. It is acceptable for the fan to come in just over half way, and switch of again as the temp drops back past/under half way. Let us know what you find happens. My other thought is that it is more than possible the Japanes boys in there airconditioned office didn't think about the heat of the Carribean(sp) when they were giving the cooling system design its final ok. We get NZ new Nissan Navaras, which are the equivelant of the USA Hardbody, and the Utility version of the Pathfinder and Terrano. Over here, and in Australia the TD27t modles of these Navara's come out with a 10" electric cooling fan on front of A/C condensor, providing the cooling system with that little bit extra. On our Japanese imports, the first thing we change is the thermostats, especially on Turbo Charged Diesels, as they straight away start cracking heads and exhaust manifolds. They have a cooler climate than we do here, so i think we use a thermostat that opens fully 10 degrees earlier than what they come over with. Anyway................... See what happens when you do the test, Pete.

Thats perfectly normal, the A/C condensor sit directly in front of the radiator, and produces alot of heat. Are you sure your viscous fan is doing its job properly??

Hehe, this is a very comon mistake made by a lot of people. You are going to have to: Find a high pressure/high volume hose (try the warf) Take the radiator out again blast the sh1t out of the fins untill the water is passing through them at a similar pressure to whats coming out the hose. Then the most important bit. Get inside the engine bay with the hose and from the rear, blast the water through the Air conditioning condensor. You can not take it out with out loosing all the gas from it, and it sits infront of the radiator and gathers 90% of the sh1t that comes in through the front end. Comonly over looked by people. It looks just like another small radiator. Take your time replacing the coolent, when you think the radiators full, and you have the header tank filled to the full mark, take it for a spin, get it hot, not warm, then come back and let it cool for an hour or so. Then take the cap of, fill it up if its down, and top up the header tank. That should see you right. While you have the radiator out, make sure the bi-metal strip of the front of the viscous fan is mud and dirt free. This will prevent the fan from coming in at the right time. Its little coil like looking thing in the middle of the fan hub. See if that works, get back to me, Cheers, Peter.

I have one: Why didn't you just get a Patrol?? No, seriously, are you considering a SAS at some stage?? Apparently the 720 P/U is a good donor vehicle. The P/U with the soild front end in of course.

Nah, he's in OZ, and yeah thats the donk he had in i think, the Z24 Carby one.

My bet is availability of a donor engine. He had the 4cycl. Thing is, that motor is producing those figures from stock. You can also pick one of those motors up in good cond for $NZ1500

Yes. I see what you mean!!! I'll throw them in a box and take them to the post office and get a quote. The lights cost me nothing, i helped a mate put his gearbox in. Roughly where in the states would they be going?? Pete.

Sweet, good to see it finally done!!! Getting the motor mounted is only half the job, getting every thing else mounted and set up is the rest of the job!!!! Looks very nicly finished off

I have got my hands on a set for you, they are sitting in my garage. What address would they be going to so i can get a price to ship?? I also have a mate who says he would swap his clear ones for a set of the orange ones, so i can get two sets if you can track down a set of orange ones to send over. See how ya go..... Pete.

If it was a carbed engine you would say the syptoms indicate the engine being starved of fuel when you punch it down. So you would look at the filter and float bowl. So as you are not getting any error codes, it suggests its not an electrical or sensor problem. It still could be, but technically if the computers doing its job, you shouldbe able to rule that side of things out. I didn't have a petrol pathy, so i can't give you specifics, but check your manual to see how the fuel tank vents/breaths. Either through the cap or through a seperate hose with a non return valve etc. Check that system is opperating properly. You need the air to enter the tank to replace the fuel as it is used otherwise the fuel pump trys to suck the petrol tank inside out, causing syptoms like you describe. In your manual under Spec's it should tell you what your fuel pressure should be, check that some how, or just have a look and see if its being pumped out in a good strong flow. Try bypassing the fuel filter. Fractured fuel line could be another cause. Just a couple of thoughts. Pete