Diesel Boy

Diesel is 91 cents a litre over here!!!! Used to be 69cents a year ago. So i bought a little 125cc motorbike to ride to work and the Safari stays tucked up in the garage untill the weekends!!! For my individual vehicle, if you include the tax you pay serperatly over here, its $1:67 a litre to run it!!!!! That costs depends on how you drive and how efficient the vehicle is. Stupid idea really!!!

Cheers guys!! Yeah 25's a good age over here, all your insurence premiums and excesses drop to about half of what they were!!! Its great!!! The new face lift for the site looks really good to!!!

Yeah i've been around, i have moved house, swapped islands and changed jobs in the last few months. Keeps life interesting!!! I now have 33X12.5R15 Yokohama Geolander G001 under the Safari, which are awsome for a cheap tyre,!!! Don't have them on in those pics.. I recommend them at this stage!!!

Hi all, havn't been on here for a while, good to see it all still happening for ya and ya pathfinders are getting better and more built all the time!!! If ya wanna see what i've been up to here's a couple of pics, and below is a link to a trip report i ran on the 6th of August: Offroad-Express.co.nz Bay Of Plenty (NZ) Trip Report August 2005 Enjoy, will visit a bit more often, i promise!!!!

Yup, every site has its Guru!!! Thanks. The diff head i found must have been from quite a late modle. Sorry about the Crown wheel thing, we are very british with our terminology at times over here!!!! Ya, know, bonnet, hood, bumpers, fenders, that kinda thing So D21, D22, and some of the early R50's had the H233b in the rear, with the 31 spline axels. Sweet, that widens the search out alot. My front diff has the high pinion shaft, so i will have to swap ring gears over, as mine will be reversed i suspect. Getting interesting!!!!

If all else fails, keep me in mind and post back what ya find!!!!

Just noticed you have added to this!!!! Hmm, well: First of all, the torque converter can be looked at as being two seperate halves, one coupled to the engine and the other to the gear box. The two halves are connect by the transmission fluid, which transfers the spinning motion generated by the rotation of the crank shaft in the engine through to the half connected to the gear box. When lock up occures, a clutch locks the two halves of the torque convertor together, making a direct mechanical link from the engine to the gear box. By doing this, the loss of power created by the fluid coupling is eliminated. This opperation is all that the switch controls. When the lock up clutch engages, and when it switches off. Lock up only occured on mine when in over drive. The switch im refering to, on mine, had three positions, Hold, A/T and Power. Hold prevented the Kick down of gears, when you put your foot to the floor, a switch on the accelerator pedal tells the trans comp to drop a gear. The Hold switch prevents this from occuring, so that the only time the box will change gear wil be in relation to speed and engine rev's, and you moving the stick. Hope that helps, feel free to ask more, i will keep my eye on this thread a bit harder

I'm sure some one on here must know!!! I need to know: Spline count (where the axle shaft mates with the side gears) How many bolts hold the crown wheel to the carrier Crown wheel diameter. Reason: I have been told that the WD21 rear LSD will fit my front diff on my GQ. Makes sense, as the diff lock part number for the rear diff of a WD21 Pathfinder and the front of a Y60 GQ are the same. So if i can confirm the important bits like the spline count etc, i will know what I'm looking for. The R50 Pathfinder rear doesn't fit i found. Cheers, Pete.

Who cares, so long as it doesn't effect the quality of my life?????

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Could be that they missed out the clips and shims that prevent the pads from squeaking. Could be wheel bearings. Would not be the autohub, nothing in there to squeak when dissengaged Would not be the CV's, as they are static when you are out of 4x4. So its back to the brakes. Stones in disc heat sheild ( i suppose thats what you guys are calling the dust cover??), stones cought in the calliper. Calliper bolts loose. Shims and shim clips missing from the caliper. I suppose you are getting into summer in the northern hemisphere, so it could be melting tar on the roads making tiny bits of road chip stick to the calipers or heat sheild, or if its snoy and slushy, again small bits of road chip getting into things. Try reversing down the road fast for a couple of hundred meters. That works to get rid of stones in the brakes sometimes

Yup, will have a go!! Couple more diff related links: Viscous LSD (normally on FWD/AWD) http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential9.htm Torsen LSD (Normally Race cars) http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential10.htm

No, in a situation where one wheel has lost traction and the other has traction, where with an open diff the wheel with out traction would spin and the other would stand still, an LSD supplys a limited (read very small) amount of torque to the wheel with traction. Not enough to be of any significant benefit off road. May be on an icy road though, which is what they are designed for. The LS unit provides friction to the side gears in the carrier via a set of clutchs and springs in the form of a pack in side the carrier. The clutch pack allows for cornering, It does not effect cornering, as the torque settings of the clutch pack are so low. An LSD does not lock up. If that were the case, diff locks would be redundant An LSD does not magically supply traction to a wheel when it has broken traction, they do not make clicking noises. You are thinking of an Automatic diff lock. If that were the case, diff locks would be redundant. Read here: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential8.htm That should clear this up once and for all.

No way, $1200??' Should more like $150!!!!! I got the seals replaced on the Troll last year and thats all it cost. Almost identical pump. Shop around some more. The pump doesn't have to come off, you just rip te top cover of the pump, rplace that seal, and then the cover on the side. No big deal. Tops a bit tricky as you have to dissasemble the accelerator assembly etc. For $1200 you want new injectors a rocker shaft and your rockers resurfaced too!!!!!!!

Nope. If you spin in gravel, both wheels will still spin if they are getting even traction, or one will still spin even if its got and LSD if the traction is un even enough. Its to much of an unreliable test. Judging buy you description in the first post you do have an LSD, just a worn out one. If you had an open diff, you could spin either wheel in either direction, and the wheel on the oposite side of the vehicle will spin the opposite direction. Always. The two wheels will always move in opposite directions no matter what. You have manual hubs, jack the front end up, lock the hubs in and spin the front diff if you don't believe me!!!! The front is an open diff. The fact that the right wheel does not move indicates its and LSD, as an open diff nothing of this sort would occur. Pete.

Take the numbers of the plate in the engine bay and ring a Nissan dealer.

Yup, they are a retread, if thats what ya call them in the states. You send your old cases over to OZ and they fire those caps on for ya. Not my cup of tea, but some people seem to rate them Doesn't work out much cheaper than buying the real thing!!!

Just a interesting idea for ya in regard to getting the tranny back in. Two ratchet tie downs slung between the chassis rails, sit the gear box in so the tie downs make a cradle, crank up the tie downs untill the gear box is aligned correctly and at the right angle, the put your feet behind the box and push it into place. I have done one recently this way, the whole job took the two of us 4hrs!!! We did have a transmission jack, but found it to clumsy, so went with my tie down idea. Not saying its good or anything, but it works if you don't have the right equiptment

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/modules.ph...viewtopic&t=792

Thought i might just add that mounting it low wil SERIOUSLY compromise your approach angle. Maybe cut the center out of you bumper, mount the winch seperatly in a cradle to the chassis, tucked in out of the way. Then see if you can fit the bar around it seperatly, perhaps welding the bar to the new winch cradle you have made. That way you can put the winch in its best position possible, then the bar ontop purly for looks, or even to support the roller fair lead. It may be strong enough to hold that. Pete.

Compressor for pumping your tyres up to road pressures when the trip is over. Tyres don't like running at 15 PSI on the road

Sweet, looks burly!!!!! Did ya etch prim the alloy rims?? I have been tempted to try painting my alloy's i have in my shed, but i hear paint don't stick to alloy that well, something to do with it being a non ferous metal............ Apparently etch primer is what you have to use??? Interested to see how it goes!!!!

Oh, i gotta give it another go!!! I thought the fright was the whole idea!!!

Hahahahahahahahahhahahahahahah!!!!!!!!!! Fark that gave me a fright!!! I was concentrating so hard. Guess i really did want to see her naked after all

I think the main problem is that some one offered up critisim to the idea, pointed out its fall backs, pointed out why perhaps it wan't the most sensible idea and BOOOM!!!! At the end of the day you do what ya like with your rig!!!! So chill pills time i say!!!!! By the way Vicks been on the outer limits board for bloody ages