Diesel Boy

I'm sure some one on here must know!!! I need to know: Spline count (where the axle shaft mates with the side gears) How many bolts hold the crown wheel to the carrier Crown wheel diameter. Reason: I have been told that the WD21 rear LSD will fit my front diff on my GQ. Makes sense, as the diff lock part number for the rear diff of a WD21 Pathfinder and the front of a Y60 GQ are the same. So if i can confirm the important bits like the spline count etc, i will know what I'm looking for. The R50 Pathfinder rear doesn't fit i found. Cheers, Pete.

Who cares, so long as it doesn't effect the quality of my life?????

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Could be that they missed out the clips and shims that prevent the pads from squeaking. Could be wheel bearings. Would not be the autohub, nothing in there to squeak when dissengaged Would not be the CV's, as they are static when you are out of 4x4. So its back to the brakes. Stones in disc heat sheild ( i suppose thats what you guys are calling the dust cover??), stones cought in the calliper. Calliper bolts loose. Shims and shim clips missing from the caliper. I suppose you are getting into summer in the northern hemisphere, so it could be melting tar on the roads making tiny bits of road chip stick to the calipers or heat sheild, or if its snoy and slushy, again small bits of road chip getting into things. Try reversing down the road fast for a couple of hundred meters. That works to get rid of stones in the brakes sometimes

Yup, will have a go!! Couple more diff related links: Viscous LSD (normally on FWD/AWD) http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential9.htm Torsen LSD (Normally Race cars) http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential10.htm

No, in a situation where one wheel has lost traction and the other has traction, where with an open diff the wheel with out traction would spin and the other would stand still, an LSD supplys a limited (read very small) amount of torque to the wheel with traction. Not enough to be of any significant benefit off road. May be on an icy road though, which is what they are designed for. The LS unit provides friction to the side gears in the carrier via a set of clutchs and springs in the form of a pack in side the carrier. The clutch pack allows for cornering, It does not effect cornering, as the torque settings of the clutch pack are so low. An LSD does not lock up. If that were the case, diff locks would be redundant An LSD does not magically supply traction to a wheel when it has broken traction, they do not make clicking noises. You are thinking of an Automatic diff lock. If that were the case, diff locks would be redundant. Read here: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential8.htm That should clear this up once and for all.

No way, $1200??' Should more like $150!!!!! I got the seals replaced on the Troll last year and thats all it cost. Almost identical pump. Shop around some more. The pump doesn't have to come off, you just rip te top cover of the pump, rplace that seal, and then the cover on the side. No big deal. Tops a bit tricky as you have to dissasemble the accelerator assembly etc. For $1200 you want new injectors a rocker shaft and your rockers resurfaced too!!!!!!!

Nope. If you spin in gravel, both wheels will still spin if they are getting even traction, or one will still spin even if its got and LSD if the traction is un even enough. Its to much of an unreliable test. Judging buy you description in the first post you do have an LSD, just a worn out one. If you had an open diff, you could spin either wheel in either direction, and the wheel on the oposite side of the vehicle will spin the opposite direction. Always. The two wheels will always move in opposite directions no matter what. You have manual hubs, jack the front end up, lock the hubs in and spin the front diff if you don't believe me!!!! The front is an open diff. The fact that the right wheel does not move indicates its and LSD, as an open diff nothing of this sort would occur. Pete.

Take the numbers of the plate in the engine bay and ring a Nissan dealer.

Yup, they are a retread, if thats what ya call them in the states. You send your old cases over to OZ and they fire those caps on for ya. Not my cup of tea, but some people seem to rate them Doesn't work out much cheaper than buying the real thing!!!

Just a interesting idea for ya in regard to getting the tranny back in. Two ratchet tie downs slung between the chassis rails, sit the gear box in so the tie downs make a cradle, crank up the tie downs untill the gear box is aligned correctly and at the right angle, the put your feet behind the box and push it into place. I have done one recently this way, the whole job took the two of us 4hrs!!! We did have a transmission jack, but found it to clumsy, so went with my tie down idea. Not saying its good or anything, but it works if you don't have the right equiptment

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/modules.ph...viewtopic&t=792

Thought i might just add that mounting it low wil SERIOUSLY compromise your approach angle. Maybe cut the center out of you bumper, mount the winch seperatly in a cradle to the chassis, tucked in out of the way. Then see if you can fit the bar around it seperatly, perhaps welding the bar to the new winch cradle you have made. That way you can put the winch in its best position possible, then the bar ontop purly for looks, or even to support the roller fair lead. It may be strong enough to hold that. Pete.

Compressor for pumping your tyres up to road pressures when the trip is over. Tyres don't like running at 15 PSI on the road

Sweet, looks burly!!!!! Did ya etch prim the alloy rims?? I have been tempted to try painting my alloy's i have in my shed, but i hear paint don't stick to alloy that well, something to do with it being a non ferous metal............ Apparently etch primer is what you have to use??? Interested to see how it goes!!!!

Oh, i gotta give it another go!!! I thought the fright was the whole idea!!!

Hahahahahahahahahhahahahahahah!!!!!!!!!! Fark that gave me a fright!!! I was concentrating so hard. Guess i really did want to see her naked after all

I think the main problem is that some one offered up critisim to the idea, pointed out its fall backs, pointed out why perhaps it wan't the most sensible idea and BOOOM!!!! At the end of the day you do what ya like with your rig!!!! So chill pills time i say!!!!! By the way Vicks been on the outer limits board for bloody ages

The other spin on the locker thing is the rear end is "generally" stronger, due to the lack of CV joints, and when climbing hills a rear locker is the go. Fronts are better for climbing banks, river driving, open road driving, bogs, making up for lack of sus travel etc etc. On the sus travel, i can't decide on that one my self. One half of me says yes you lift a front more than a rear in an IFS vehicle, so a front locker. The other half says well if you lift a front wheel and both the back are still in full contact with the ground, then surely it would be more beneficial in the back seeing as you have two wheels still able to grip somthing. Albeit, there will be bugger all weight on one of them. Both work the same in my mind. Pete. Go the Holden conversion!!! I nearly did one in my Surf!! I reckon with the Coversion and the MK/GQ bits in the front you have a better set of wheels than i have !!!! The GQ's just to farken big, i get wedged in the Rollux ruts!!!!! That and you need 35's to get the same clearence at the diff head as you would get on yours with 32's. Club rules are 33. Suck arse!!!!!

Don't see why not!!! Flexi air hose is all you need. You have trhe round airfilter on top of the motor right?? Run the flexi hose from the inner gaurd to your aircleaner inlet. Simple. If the inlet is not round, then weld a round section onto the end. You would have to do that for an aftermarket snorkel any way.

Haha, I'm with Vicks on this one!!! You wanna take a good look at his Finder!!!! Its coils all round, solid front end, buick motor and the list goes on!!!!! It is BUILT!!!!!! Its common knowledge that PVC pipe is Sh1t for making snorkels from. Its way to brittle and brakes the first branch that hits it. You better option would have been to make it from Stainless. Like he points out, cutting a hole in your gaurd for somthing that is going to last 5mins off road is maddnes. Sure you have to cut a hole for the proper snorkel, but the one you cut for the PVC special will be in the wrong place. So your screwed when you brake it!!!! As for the picture some one drew of their water catch system. WTF?? That holes going to be in the inner gard?? So why don't you just leave your standard intake on?? It draws from about the same level as your drain hole. Serioulsy!!!! Siting stuck in a puddle, or river the water is going to enter the intake from that point. You havn't improved you wading depth at all, just butchered your gaurd. Now as for hat. If any of you had bothered to do any reaserch into snorkels before you decided to throw one together, or start flaming each other, you would have read that the hat on the snorkel is what seperates the water from the air. The water collects in the back of the hat and runs out through holes, the air goes straight into the snorkel. Five mins on the airflow site and you would have read that. No sh1t about not spending the $$ on a special hat for your hame made wonder, get a section of larger diameter PVC pipe and use that. So this is what this site has come to. Bagging people because their rig is better than yours, or they use British terminology to describe things. Take a good look at your selfs. Its Pathetic. Pissed off. Pete.

haha, The Bang Bus

Doesn't that just drive ya nuts!!!! Bet ya he wasn't reallty all that helpfull with the whole deal as well. I really wonder about those Coopers. They are supposed to be a really good hard wearing 40 to 50,000K tire. Seriously, in my mind at least, this is how i would be thinking about it. BFG, most aggressive. STT, As good as the MTR at least, but not quite as aggressive as the BFG MTR, Perhaps slighly less aggressive, but a total of $115 cheaper than the other two over all. One thing i will say about the BFG is that they have a very very straight stiff side wall, and they are hard to make bag, unless you run extremely low pressures and tubes. I still have my mind set on the MTR.

Im not sure about the MQ/Mk. I have heard bad things about the OZ made Lokka brand, i was told in no uncertain terms to go for the Detroit. Heres the threads we have been disscussing the issue on: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/...der=asc&start=0

I have been led to believe it is a particular modle these: