Diesel Boy

Not sure, but a pair could mean one to dissconect the front and the other to dissconect the rear. You shouldn't notice swaying at high way speeds, the sway refered to is the body and chassis rolling or leaning over on the springs around corners. Sway is more comonly refered to as "body roll". This alone will not cause the vehicle to roll completely over. What usually happens is people used to driving cars, get in a 4x4 and when the come to a corner feel the body rolling/leaning over on the suspension around a corner, get a fright, so try to correct which swaps the loading to the other side, which in turn can lead to rolling over. Cornering alone with out sway bars will not lead to a roll over. The tyres will still let go of the road first, in which case your chances of rolling over in a 4x4 are high if this happens anyway. Early range rovers came out with coils all round and no sway bars, uni mogs have no sway bars. Pathfinders are no where near as bad due to the IFS and torsion bar set up in the front, limiting movement of the body/chassis to a couple of inches either way.

Here lies your problem: You bought one to may dissconnects. You only need to dissconnect one side of the sway bar to regain your articulation. By leaving the other side connected, it holds the bar in place. Simple. Thats how all the dissconects work that come out on vehicles as standard. Pete.

Wow, 60%!!! I agree, leave no rock unturned for sure!!!!!

Rancho shocks are so cheap and good, why would you bother??? Electric adjustables are not all that, in my opinion at least!!! I may be wrong, but the standard shocks are only oil filled, not gas pressurised as well.

Ok, it condensation/steam forming in the exhaust due to the cooler external temperatures. The strong smell is the rich mixture the computer feeds the engine when its cold to aid start up. Exactly the same as in the old carby cars, when you pulled the choke.

Smoke or condensation/steam i wonder????

Go for it!!!!!

It just keeps getting better!!! I might see if i can find my self an open carrier!!!!!! There must be one floating round in OZ some where!!!

Its that HG46 bit Translation/explaination for us 88?? Its a H233B diff with 4.6 ratio?? Sweet with the tyres!!

In my experience: 32's fit with some rubbing standard. 33's fit with a 2" suspension lift, some minor guard modification with a hammer, and a 2" body lift. You could fit 35's in theory, if you got the body up high enough. You would have to run a big offset(back spacing) to keep your current turning radius. I think with out all the fancy steering accessories, 33's are not a good idea, but don't let me put you off!! I have photos and video's of my Terrano with the big tyres on going up river beds and rocky climbs, and you can see the flex in the center link etc, at times both wheels are facing each other, then splayed out from each other, only slightly, but still!!

Navara is the OZ and NZ spec WD21 Hardbody equivilent. Apparently a front locker can also cause the vehicle to pull down hill when tyring to go accross. Don't ask me how that works!!! He seems like a good guy to deal with, being a relativly small country, with a population of less than one of your cities, about 4.1million, buisnesses tend to offer excellent costomer service. Especially in niche markets such as aftermarket 4x4 accessories. I have met the guy, Craig, on a trip a while back, he drives a mid wheel base Cruiser. I have got quite a few things sent down to me through, the biggest yet to come, my lift coils, which apparently landed in the country today. Others in the club have bought tyres, lockers, compressors etc through him with out any trouble what so ever. He can't afford any trouble any how, the word would very quickly get out in the relativly small 4x4 comunity and people would swap to the competition, offering the same products. Pete.

Umm, we're talking about diff locks right?? Not free wheeling hubs aye A front locker for a pth finder is easier to come by than a rear, as they only make a rear locker for the open rear diffs, not the LSD. Check this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=3931 I can get you a front locker for $NZ 799, $US400ish. The are V small, so shipping would be sweet F.A.

88, you are very creative when you want to be, i'm sure you could seal up your air cleaner, sw did, and even though his was a 4cyl, they have the same set up with the aircleaner sitting ontop of the engine and a ducting going to the inner guard or behind the head light. I used Ados Galve-Bond silicone sealer on mine, and its a very similar design to yours. Get creative, seal the plastic tube to the air cleaner hosing with a good silicone sealer, cut the plastic tube if you have to so you have a circular end on it, get a short section of steel or PVC tube of suitable diameter and use hose clamp to attach the plastic aircleaner with a good dose of silicone, then get a length of the steel ribbed flexi air hose to run from your snorkel to the steel/PVC or what ever you choose tube and hose clamp it there again. If the intake to the air cleaner housing is circular, you could just run the ribbed air hose straight from the snorkel to the air cleaner. The sil;icone sealer im talking about is the kind of stuff they use for sealing roofing, windows, joinery and all manner of things in houses etc. Just my thoughts by the way

The fan rotates all the time, but does not atchually move any significant volume of air. I could try explain better, but the best way is to say it coasts around, under no load, it is not being driven, it is freewheeling so to speak. The slight resistance you feel when you try to spin the fan by hand is all that is making it spin. When the engine gets hot, just over half way on the temp gauge usually, the fan will stop coasting around, or free wheeling, and lock up and start spinning at the same speed as the engine, making a loud, easily distinguishable roar, heard clearly above the sound of the engine. There is no way you could miss it, so sit inside with the windows down, listening and watching the temp guage. It will be plainly obvious of the fans working. If you here nothing, and the Temp contiues to climb. Thats your problem.

Haha, never mind, this is funny. The photoshop stuff i mean

Hehe, some of you guys should migrate out here, you would filthy rich!!!!!! Double your cash just like that!!!

Sweeeeeeeeet!!!!!!! Your one of the chosen few :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: email him and get a price just outa curiosity, there will be one available for you with your open diff!!!!!

Yeah, thats what you would expect, the engines under load going up, and not on the way down. Still reckon you do my test with the fan. It will tell you so much. Go buy one of those blue tarps from the ware house for a couple of bucks and do it. It'l tell you if you fans working, thermostats working, water pumps working, radiators blocked or clear and so on. Its a ten min job to do, and beats taking a stab in the dark and pulling your water pump down for one

Wow, no expense spared!!!!

Hey Jumper. The price is very good for those lokkers from Genie. I would imagine it would be in that $799 region. Email him and ask. I'm gona get my head kicked on here for saying this, but a rear locker isthe only way to go on an IFS vehicle especially. The rear end of a 4X4 is the strongest, as it doesn't have any CV joints. An IFS set up has four of the dam things. I personally wouldn't even consider putting a lokker in the front unles that was really and truly the absolute only option. The problem you will face is that you will need to source an open diff carrier, as you have a LSD. A lokker will not fit an LSD carrier. It is probable that you can source a open carrier from a wreckers from an early Terrano or Navara. Should be pretty cheap to do so. Email Craig and tell him you have the LSD in the rear and see what he says. I suspect the reason why he has put "some" there on his listing is that the some are probably the few that have open diffs already. The same logic applies to why a lokker is available for all the front diffs, as they all come from the factory as open diffs.

You know what, you still have to pull the darn water pump of to rebuild the fan. It would make me personally, seriously think about replacing the whole lot, as its alot of work to take of again if the rebuild is not a success.

I wonder, wouldn't that do some weird things performance wise?? For example a longer stroke should equal more torque at lower rev's with a sacrifice to the top end as the piston is traveling a greater distance each stroke etc etc. Kinda like a why one of those 4 stroke 4cyl sports bikes sounds like its screeming its tits of a 10,00 rpm as it goes past. Really really short stroke with peak power at like 7000rpm. Thats why they use bigger pistons to create more power and displacement, instead of just increasing the length of the stroke. Bigger piston for more cubes, and a stroke in proportion to it. I'm very curious, its not a common mod over here, but i know you guys do it to your V8's all the time and i always wondered why!!!

Yeah, i was wonderin about bigends, as they tend to act up in that area between load and engine brakeing. They don't make a ticking sound thats all.

I didn't study your post well enough!!! Is the oil pressure still good on the gauge when the oil light comes on??

Lifters lifters lifters, check your oil level. Run some engine flush, oil change and new filters, see what that does.