Diesel Boy

If you can find one over there in the US, it will bolt right up. You would need a whole raft of other stuff to make it work, like the dash module particularly for the rev counter guage, all the fuel system from the tank to the engine, you may get away with the existing wiring loom, just plumb in the glow plug and timer system, water sensor, fuel cut of solenoid and rev counter independantly. Could be done. Ring around, get some idea of what it would cost to get and auto electritian to do it. TD27 2.7l 4cycl Make sure you get the turbo model, the TD27t, the straight TD27 is highl unimpressive!!!

Airfilter, then MAF, then electrics (pump/moduels/computers), then fuel system(lines/pickups/injectors etc), then mechanical(head gaskets/distrubutor drive/rings/valves....) Its always best to start with simple things first. Go through the disposables like you filters and pick screensetc. Then the through the catagories/systems that make up an engine. Start with electrical, its the weakest link of the three. Then check the fuel system, its next in line, And finally go for the mechanical. If you follow that rule, problem solving becomes easy, as you can system matically work your way through the engine and management systems.

Worst case, buy the trans computer as well, the wiring loom is apparently the same, just the computer can be programmed differently. At least thats the way it is over here with our imported ones.

Thanks, I've had a think, i reckoni just get a temp switch from a parts shop, any one will do as long as it opperates at the correct temperature for my engine, which im in the process of finding out. A radiator repairer will be able to put a mounting in my radiator so i can screw the switch in. Then all i need is a 24volt relay which i have already and the im all go. Should work ya reckon???

I know a few of you to date have installed Electric Fans. I am going to replace my erratic Viscious Fan on the Safari with an electric one. So far i can get two 12" fans for $NZ150.00. I need two as they are 12volt and my system is 24volt, so by wiring them up in series i will be able to run them directly from the system. It gets complicated otherwise. Besides, theres plenty of room for them side by side!!! Initially i was going to run them all the time, so when you turn the ingnition on, the fans come on, as the kits don't have temperature switches with them. That would be fine, but then what happens if you do water crossings?? You don't want the fans running thats for sure!!! I thought that i suppose you could just get out and unplug them, then plug them back in, but the novelty of that would soon wear of and i would get lazy!! The other idea was to have a switch in the cab to turn them on and off. At the end of the day the risk of not turning them back on or bumping the switch and distroying the engine through overheating is way to high!!! So i remember some one saying that they got a adjustable temperature switch on ebay when they put theres in. Any one recall that?? I searched a bit but could not find the thread. I also suck at ebay surfing, so where abouts would i look?? Had a look under cooling in ebay motors, but nothing special there really. Any thoughts?? What are they worth roughly?? They guy who can supply the fans said that a themostatically controlled fan would be around $NZ500. WTF!!!!!! I had for some reason been thinking that you guys had paid about $US16 for the switch or somthing like that??? Cheers, Pete.

I see!!! Glad i asked, Cheers!!

By the way, what funky things does the kit supply in the way of Transfercase crossmember spacers or what ever to correct the drive line angles and correct the sine wave calculated vibration cancelling of the opposing universal joints which will deffinately start to create problems at those sort of angles. Sceptic huh

Dammit, i was thinking that the whole time i was writing the post, what if he is using the kit that drops the front crossmember down. Just out of curiosity then, simply for my own intrest, the 4" drop down kit doesn't require you to adjust the torsion bars at all?? All the lift is in the droping down of the crossmember and diff housing etc?? So at the back they supply you with new coils that raise the rear 4"?? So if you were to stack the two suspension lift kits together how exactly does that work?? The only way i can see you could stack is if the trailmaster kit involved a full 4" drop down at the front, leaving Torsion bars as they are, and then a pair of 4" spring spacers for the rear, retaining your OE springs. Then you could get the 3" lift kit with the new springs and Tbars and using the spring spacers, get the extra 3". Is that how it works?? Other wise i don't see anyone getting 7" out of either end with out getting some springs made to spec. Can't stack coils on top of each other!!!!! So now I've explained my thoughts, left my self wide open to reason, how does it work?? :confused:

No, other way round, the maximum lift you can get from a stock height WD21 is 3" on the suspension, as you run out of movement on the front end. As it is with a 3" the A arms will be hard up against the bumpstops. You can get more out of the back as 88 keeps doing, but the front end is very limited. A 4" body lift and 3" suspension lift is the best you can do before you have serious issues with alsorts of things. Won't go into detail. So in that case you can still run stock shocks, but they do make Rancho's to accomodate the extra travel possible in the rear, as for the front, well whats the point??? Its never going to travel more than it did fresh from the factory!!

Jeeze, and i complain about $NZ45 an hour!!!!

On that note, why not make up your own brackets out of flat 3mm plate. All it has to do really is spread the load through the rear quater pannel. Soooo, in theory if you cut out some plates from the 3mm sheet of steel, left then as flate plates they should spread the load as well as any floating braket supplied as OEM. Im mean, you could even put some bends in it with a vice and spot weld it to the inner wall in the boot if you wanted. Crazy idea i know, but worth looking at maybe???

Man, these are all such minor problems you guys are complaining about!!! Im amazed every time i here on this sight that a vehicle has run 2k+ miles and thats all you've had to do to it. AMAZING!!!!!

Sweet as, no pressure!!!! Their there thats all, im taking them up to Ham any way, easier to sell up there, so no loss to me either way!!! By the way, $275 for 10,000k's, i just bought some last week!! Peter.

LOL,LOL!!! True, and I suppose theres always a chance the oil on the fan motor is empty and its not turning the heads properly because the valving on the thermostat is preventing the air from circulating through the torque convertor leaving a lack of vacum in the anti detonation compression chamber. That would definatly be the cause for sure!!!

Ya what??? That theory really deserves to be explained!!!!!!!

Yep, that would work!! There all still there, and I'll keep them for you. Hubs, yep its for the set. Ferry car park would be good. Give me a ring on 021433135, or post your No. and i'll call you and we can sort it out. Im open to offers, its all only worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it!!!!! After all, it is used (not very used) but that makes all the difference in what you can expect to get for it second hand.

http://npora.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtop...1&hl=spare+tyre and http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1875&hl=carrier Seems that from 90 onwards they have all the bracing in there ready to go.

Yeah, you might be right, all im saying is that do a search, because i have a suspicion that some one came accross seriouse problems when putting one on. Maybe i should do a search. Now theres an idea!!

Apparently, from memory from a discussion on this ages ago, you have to put all the strengthening stuff on from another Pathfinder that goes inside the rear corner. Makes sense, as you can't bolt straight to the body work, not enough strength. Do a search, im sure you will find it here.

Hey. Sold the Terrano to get a short wheel base Safari/Patrol. Hubs - on a 4wd you have special free wheeling hubs on the front to dissconnect the wheels from the diff. Terranos come out with automatic ones which are ok, but can be tempremental and let you down, so most people that are serious put manual ones on. Im not sure you understand what im on about so i'll post a picture and it will all make sense!! Shocks - No, you will need new springs for the rear, and crank the front torsion bars up. The shocks improve the ride and handleing alot on and off road, but they will not lift the vehicle. Air shocks will, for lots of $$$$!!! The Steering Stabiliser has the bracket to the chassis with it. P&H made it in Hamilton, its nothing special. Yep, i have the filter still, all I've sold so far is the bull bar and used the rear Rancho shocks as a duel Steering Stabiliser on the Safari. Im in Westport (origionally from Hamilton, bin here 1yr). Im going up to Hams for my brothers 21st in two weeks, I get off the Ferry in Wellington at about 11:30 on the 21st of Sept, so if your at work or what ever i could hang round till lunch. Wanted to go to Real Groovy anyway. Can't hang round to long though, alot of hours driving to do to get from there to Hamilton. 16hrs in Total. I'LL take some pics of every thing when my next shift starts on friday and i can pinch a decent camera from work. Cheers, Peter.

I think your problem could be with you drive line. Check your Universal joints, greese them see if it improves for a sort time. Do you have a suspension lift?? Also the drive shaft may have come out of balence. Im my opinion there is really no way a torque convertor could shudder enough to transfer vibrations through the whole vehicle. They either work fine, or let go altogether and take the bell housing with them!!!

Bugger!!!! I was going to pull my Lovell lift springs out two before i sold my Terrano. Was to lazy to as i thought no one would want them. Bugger!!!! I have standard springs if any one wants them for anything??? Free to a good home!!!!

Do that and run the diagnostics test, the start with lg's list!!

Haha, true!!! P-Up = Pick Up = Ute(in NZ) =Hard body Riiight. In that case, i hope you have the equipment to play with leaf springs, they are a battle!!! The tricky part with the Torsion bars is to get the front end level on either side. Then you need an alignment. The rear springs quite often need pure brute force to but them back in.

No, on the dash beside the steering wheel, under the gauges there should be a switch with Power, A/T,Hold on it. Make sure that is in the middle position, A/T. Thats all i was saying. It is possible this is just an electrical problem, go to the Garage section of the forum center, and in one of the bold headings at the top of garage section should be a PDF document with instructions on how to run a self diagnostic procedure on the trans. Try it, it may be helpfull.