morpheus

Looks like a main bearing failure, or one of the bearing cap bolts came loose and fell off.

Squeel is definatly your belts, maybe they're loose, maybe they got saturated with antifreeze, maybe they're just old, dry and weathered. Check engine light could be anything, pull the codes and go from there.

You could try an oil additive, can't do any harm.

ARB doesn't want $1900, ARB wants $1200USD, NAPA wants the rest.

I'd pay to see that! lol

I'm not 100% sure, but I believe you cant' purchase a rocker panel from nissan on it's own, I think you get it as part of the floor pan. $1800 bucks would be enough to paint a whole truck, you're getting ripped off a good body shop would simply pull the existing dent by welding a metal piece onto it and using a slide hammer. Then they will have to use a little filler to make it 100% straight. don't bother with paint for the rocker panels, have black rubberized rocker guard sprayed on both sides of the truck. You should be able to get all that done for $500-$700 bucks if you're paying a body shop, or do it in your driveway on a weekend.

If you're planning on doing anything with it, the motor would have to come out anyways, so get it pulled, and take the oil pan off it. Get a good look at what your dealing with, then decide if you can fix the existing, or go for a full swap. You might decide that its not worth putting that much money into it anyways, and just look for a complete used truck.

Even though there is apparently hundreds of thousands of combinations for the key fob's, there's bound to be duplicates, the idea is just that the chances of them actually ending up near enough to each other is rare. I've seen at least 4 or 5 times that 1 key fob will lock/unlock more than 1 car at the same time in the parking lot of the dealership. remote possibility that someone in your school has the same frequency fob as you do.

I'm thinking you just added another year to your work.... lol...

If one of the door locks or actuators are siezing up, one of the doors might not be unlocking 100% of the way (partially stuck towards lock) and when you slam the door, the vibrations caused it to flip back to the locked position,

That's an awsome idea!

Is the actual engine block damaged, or did it just go through the oil pan? If the block is not cracked, talk to a machine shop about putting a sleeve in that cylinder. If the block is cracked, it's garbage.

I'm not making them, I'm just buying myself a set, and the guy said he could make more for me if there was anyone interested. I thought the price was ok, since they are being made from aircraft aluminum, and cnc machined, not cut in a jigsaw, and the majority of the cost is his labour, not materials. Could I have gotten them cheaper? maybe? If I ordered a set from the states, I would have got nailed at the border for taxes, duty and brokerage fees, which probably would have doubled the price of the spacers anyways. I wasn't about to waste my time shopping around to try to save a couple of bucks. No one's forcing anyone to buy them, I simply stated I have access to a supplier, if you want a set, I can get a set, if you don't want a set, then don't worry about it, walk away.

I'll post pics when I get them.

I should have my set in my hands within the week, I'll see what I can do about volume discounts. Mike.

It's a fairly common car. Check www.car-part.com and find yards with hood's insock, then try to find one the same factory color. You might get lucky, and you'll just have to bolt it on.

Most likely it's the fan amplifier (similar to fan resistor on manual air). Pretty common.

And do it quickly. Driving around with too much oil in the motor can cause damage. It will also make your gas mileage suck, as the crankshaft has to work that much harder to spin in a huge vat of oil.

With -38C weather, I'd expect a lot of exhaust smoke. I wouldn't get too worried, unless you are having some of the other symptoms of a blown head gasket - lack of heat - coolant level dropping - oil level rising and/or turning milky Also, the colder it gets, the worse your mileage is going to get, because air is denser the colder it gets, so the vehicle needs more fuel to keep the mixture proper. You could pull the spark plugs out and look for white powder deposits on one or more of the plugs, that would indicate burning coolant.

I drove mine for almost a year with the release bearing making noise before the clutch finially let go at 290,000km The good part about a 5spd is that you don't need to worry about getting stranded. If the clutch goes, you can just powershift it to get home/to the shop.

Wow, when I started this thread, I thought I was doing people a favour, stut spacers seem to be hard to come by, unless you want to make them yourself, and since I was getting a set for myself I thought I'd share. Never thought I'd get ragged on like this over it.. Never mind then...

I'm sure I could get a better deal if I committed to maybe 10 pairs at a time instead of 1 pair at a time, but I'm not willing to chance getting stuck with them. Also, don't know what the others were made out of, but these are aircraft grade aluminum. If you want to check on shipping costs, go to www.ups.com and estimate from postal code L9T3H6. Mike.

I have access to a supply of 1" aluminum strut spacers. Spacers are currently $200/pr (CAD) including hardware (Approx $160 USD) or $370/pr (CAD) including hardware, upper strut mounts and bearing. (Approx $290 USD) Plus applicable shipping. PM me if interested, or email me at mikethomson@northendnissan.ca

This might be old information for some, but since someone brought this thread back to life, I'm reading it. The 2000-2001 Maxima's had a major programming probelm with their MAF. Nissan replaced the original MAF 22680-AD200/AD201 with a replacement MAF pt# 22680-2Y001 and created a service file on them. The old number was discontinued. With the new 2Y001 MAF installed, you needed to also reflash the ecu, or the vehicle would not run most of the time. The R50 uses a different MAF 22680-4W000 and there is no service file, or TSB on this MAF. In Canada, both part #'s come as complete assemblies at $599.95, not as a seperate element. Sounds like the USA may supply the same part# but as a different package at a different price.

I'm still waiting for someone to come across that post on a google search and start following the directions....