MY1PATH

@ 274,000 miles I find that hard to belive. Round tooth belts have a change interval of 105,000 and square are 60,000. yes they will last longer than that but I'd think something would happen(snap or skip a tooth...) esp if it went more than double its life.

Hey I smogged my TBI for @!*%s and giggles my CO failed by 0.17 because my idle was low (675-725 iirc) turned it up a little (850-900)and all was fine. if you fail any of the idle tests by only a little bumping the idle by 100-150 may pass you. most states have a maximum idle of 1200 or something like that so turn it up as far as they allow and try again.

LoL I do remember afew times when I had my door liner off I had to remove the swich form the liner and have it plugged in for my windows to work. lol wish I thought of it sooner

Its ture 90% of the shiny new lifted and armored rigs arround here are pushin the toyo MT's. I thought they looked great as a tire but I'm gettin sick of seein em. (always clean trucks too). the nokian MT on the other hand, there's one other meber here that has em and we are the only 2 ppl I've seen run em. OH yeh, they really suck you don't want a uniqe tire like mine go get something common.

yeh and it doesn't fit lol. I'll finish it one day, but in the mean time I'm gettin petty used to the look of my bumperless pathy lol. and no-one will be able to cut themselves on it when I'm done.

pretty close, I think I was just shy of $1,100 out the door(for 5 and they re-banlanced them again a month later). and I thnk they've gone down since then... anyway, they won hands down out of the 3 I looking at; toyo OC MT-every poser has em Nokian Vatiiva MT- just right Mickey MTZ- was $275 @ the time iirc

So I went back to the Dyno today and did 2 pulls. My peak HP went up just a little. my torqe went down. the tech looked @ how it was behaving and said it was a tuning issue. I agree, I been having trouble with it wanting to run rich.... 2 things to look at here. 1)first off I was way to conservative with my grind. I had no solid info on schneiders Mild cam and mine was more mild that that. ~ I reccomend the Schneider 256H Grind for anyone who whants something mild for low end. the changes I made to the duration were subltle and without being able to time events(because the biggest change was the intake closing sooner) the ecu may be having trouble with the ammount of advace I added to the intake (closes so earler ecu so sends fuel too late) 2)I Had a staggered duration so that the intake lasts longer than the exuast(254in 252ex) to compensate for the TBI manifold being so restrictive. Well the ECU may not be able to compensate for what the cam is compensating... so would have to I increase the exhaust duration to match the intake and things might get better... So If I set to it and change my cam design to correct issues 1 & 2 I pretty much end up with almost the same grind as the Schneider 256H Grind. and hey, I'm just the rookie schneider has been doing cams since before the VG was arrond.(or me for that matter)

I just did my t-belt and wrote 245 on the sticker.

you're a little backwards, the 3.3 heads have a more efficent flow design due to a more advanced casting process that was intoduced in the early 90's. These newer castings also allowed more thruough combustion. despite the slight differances in chamber the compression remains 9:1 reguardless of combineation. Yes running a 3.0 cam on the 3.3 is a good idea. all internals on the 3.3 and 3.0 SOHC heads are interchangeable.

x2 they are pretty simple design and you have the idler as a template. Or do the dual steering box mod. that might cost less and IMO is even stronger.

Try recharging your system. The refigerant will have a special lubricant in it for the internals of your AC pump. This should do 3 things; reduce drag on the system cause they system to run less to maintain preassure may reveal leaks or other problems when charging. somone else will chime in about the windows...

ANY! I got a smittybuilt from and s10 ($50 of craigslist)I started working on and slick has a smitty from a taco. cut the mounts off and make your own. Our smitty's are not winch able tho (yet) and when you call them in 5 weeks they will tell you it hasn't started because they normally run an 8 week backlog.... Mine was supposed to be 3 weeks and then shipped. sorry dude I don't think you'll see anything for 6-months to a year. and when you do watch out for lots of sharp edges on their unfinished product, you might cut yourself handling it. KMA has been banned from other offorading sites, I only wish bothered to see other ppls experiences there before I ordered mine. Good luck, maybe somone responsible took over and started enforcing quality work and start-overs when they blow thru a weld (instead of just building it up with more weld)

so where are these being sold anyway? they're not on the general tire site yet and the only other refereces I've seen say they will be available in 35-37" sizes. as far as price I think I paid 210 for my Nokian Vatiiva MT's and I am very happy with them.

short skirt and little bit of leg showing in this pic how do you know its a hottie? what if its a drag?

I can see having 1/2" maximum on the end of each flange without having any issues. but that only gives you 1" total will your slip yoke go the last 1" and still have enough spline engagement? keep in mind I'm no driveline expert that's just my speculation

I would disagree, the pre-90 were 60amp and 70-78amp on the later models. when you have 'just enough' or barely enough you are asking for trouble. 90amps would have been better even for the stock pathy.

1 ARB also waits untill they have 6 orders before they make them. yes the HB will work with a 2" BL 2 kenmtn I cannot stress how much frustration they caused or how disapointed I was with their "professional" craftmanship. but you found my thread anyway so nuff said 3 Local man I am much in favor of this option you can check on progress first hand maybe even be there for allot of it and you are more likely to get exactly what you want. Its hard to enforce qualtiy and pride in your work from across the country which is another plus about going local. 4 find one off a 80-90 taco/4-runner or s10/blazer and modify it. the width on those is just right.

its the actual mounts themselves (welded to each side), the ruber isolators or "blocks' on both rigs are the same.

when I was in cali, and all stock, yeah it was hot. didn't wanna stick your face in there for the first 10 sec. But I seen worse. now with e-fan and headders it never seems as hot even on long drives back to the cali summer(just don't touch anything)

well you know my vote, and don't forget the Black magic controler also has a wire for your A/C compressor so when it engages the fan turns on.

allota ppl just start a new thread for each trip in the "pictures and videos section" and share pictures and stories there. goning somewhere? or just get back? Have fun! or Had fun? if your wanting to make a comunity event for multiple mebers there is a trail run category @ the bottom of the forums page and regional area sections as well a little higher up. Please chose ONE acrodingly if your are tying to put together an event.

don't know if this makes a differance but your HB cab sits about 1.5" higer so you have more airspace inside the engine bay, and more room for it to escape as it gets pushed down the transmission tunnel,(also 1.5" higer) arround the tranny and onto the road below the cab.

actually its just matted fibers. It did not fall apart, it was put in like that. Kinda funny aint it?

The Black magic bades are connected at the tip by an outer ring this makes them pretty hard to break since they will not move indivutually and The S sape of the blade reduces stress if the blade does strike water. mine have run in water but its still a good Idea to shut it off for initial entry. I got a 180A alty to remedy that, I once jumped a car so dead that the alty burned the fusable link to my charging system.(idiot was turing they key before his batt could recive some charge) If you plan to do allot of jumps having a capacator onboard would help sabilize the loads and protect other ectrical components. maybe use a momentary off swich to prevent user negligance. I just trun the temp up on mine when I need it quiet for a bit. it still comes on before the danger temps. yes, some people have bad luck and results do vary. In my case I have not had a single fan related issue but I also read about all the potential desasters on N4W (similar to 'XPLORx4' and more...)so I set mine up with all those in mind to prevent them.

tell her you will get some "steps" for it so it won't be so bad. I got my sliders from steevo on rugged rocks. Now I gotta position them so they can be used as so without creating further obstruction lol.