MY1PATH

Just because it has the same transmission part code does not mean it has the same bell housing bolt pattern. And that is why I said it must come from a VG series motor. If you want to try and bell swap one you can but there is no guarantee that will work either...

No, it was taller than stock. I have one extra disc on each side but two on each side are machined down by .015" (.030" total) Assuming 1.5mm disc (.059") .059-.030= .029 So my stack height is .029 taller per side. Adding a .030" shim (full hard Steel) to each side may have a similar lockup as mine and that's probably what I would do next time since I no longer have access to a Blanchard grinder with a magnetic hold down. (IMHO that's the only proper way to take such a small amount evenly off an entire hardened clutch disc)

If the trans has more than 75k on it and no history of fluid change its not a bad idea to drop the valve body to clean it and service it (seals, HD Spring kit optional) BEFORE you install it. Neglected transmissions can have a tendency of depositing all the leftover gunk in the wrong place (valve body) after new fluid is put in because the detergent in the new fluid sweeps it out of all the other areas until it finds a choke point (valve body). A flush will not clear this because the valve body not being actuated during the flush. Yes the later one is an HD model externally its the same but internally has an upgraded valve body and beefed up clutches. It is posted here (search) the exact upgrades nissan made to create the HD model MUST BE A RWD VG3X transmission!

Google found this... http://www.thelongranger.com.au/pathfinderlongrangefueltank.html oops, that's R50 and its only 95L/25gal

I looked into it and didn't like it. The HB bed sits 1" higher off the frame and is straight across (actually the bottom of the bed is even higher). It also uses a rod for the parking brake attached to a pull handle under the dash. The PF floor pan with seats and drop downs for the parking brake cables (and the cables themselves) are all obstacles. From a 4x4 standpoint just swapping in an HB tank would hang way too low. That being said, once upon a time there were extended range pathfinder tanks. They went in the same place but had square corners and tighter radiuses to squeeze an extra few gallons out of the same space. They may have been an inch or so taller too and were in the 30 gallon range IIRC. Perhaps you can buy or have made a big square cornered tank like that... One day I might make my own like that too...

I like that Front Bumper design but the rear one could use a little more meat on it...

My first try with this mod I added one disc to each side and it was basically a spool. My third try sill has one extra disc but the outside two have .015" machined off them (-.030 total) so that the the surface facing the side gear and the surface facing the spring stack are smooth. It's streetable but locks up under torque because the spider gears push outward against the side gears just enough to make it a spool when you punch it. It is also like a locker on snow and ice which can lead to fish tailing if you are not careful.

All the switches (open close) on hood doors, hatch and glass are tied to the alarm system. The "Broken hardware or sensor bracket inside the door that triggers the system when closed." is a magnetic switch that clips to the inside of the door lock and is triggered when the key is turned. If its clip is broken it can sometimes trigger from bumps or doors being closed.

MC's are Marked! for Pathy and z32 etc... Some are valved for rear drum and others are valved for rear disc. Size code below. BM33 = 13/16 BM38 = 7/8 BM44 = 15/16 BM50 = 1" BM57 = 1 1/16 Both my trucks say BM50 but my 89 was originally a BM44.

Fresh tank of gas too!

Just go to the auto store and get a Temp sensor for your turck. It will be the one with a square 2 pin plug it shouldn't cost much. It will be located on the Drivers CYL head up front just behind the timing cover. You will have to pull the AC idler to get to it. Use scribe to CAREFULLY remove the wire clip before trying to unplug it and then remove it with a 19mm deep socket and swivel joint.

It happens for a number of reasons. Weak connections in the Door lock timer. Broken hardware or sensor bracket inside the door that triggers the system when closed. Faulty alarm system switch. (this can also cuase non-starts depending on which swithc is faulty.) My solution was to repair the door switch AND remove the alarm system. Yeah I don't have use of the remote anymore but the doors & starter act like they should.

Go to the how-to section, Its all there. step by step with pictures. blocks go on top of stock mounts with longer bolts. There are special ways to get to some of the bolts and special ways to correctly align the rear bolts without letting the body slip crooked on you while its on jacks. Read the how-to, its all there.

BTW if one of your rubber mounts is cracked or dry rotted THEN go buy that doorman part. ONE hockey puck may be good for ONE INCH. Don't start stacking them, stuff starts bending and flexing in ways it shouldn't. You lift block should be ONE solid piece.

Nice thing about a BL; a lot of jobs get easier with the extra space. I only have a 1" BL on mine and pulling the trans and removing a header were both much easier than they were before the BL. Use the 4x4 parts kit. The main difference between kits for MOST other vehicles is the bolts. 4wheel parts stores sell generic lift blocks from 1" to 4" and if you source your own bolts (order through Fastenal) your 90% there. The last 10% is things like fuel tube extension, drive shaft hoop extension and parking brake cable relocation...

ALL OF THEM, Its a complete service manual. They are linked to each other so when you click on EL (electrical) on the Title page it will take you there. For this reason you should also not rename them or separate them because then the links stop working.

A properly working fan clutch will always have free movement when the engine is off. "full lock up" to "unlocked" is actually a ratio of 80% to 20% pulley speed as controlled by a thermal clutch. Usually when they fail they completely lock up for real and rob you of lots of power under acceleration. I've replaced a several like that in various cars over the years but I have never had to replace one for not being able to cool the engine.

If you really want your compressor to pump try putting it in P or N and holding the throttle to 1,100 - 1,500 rpm while you are waiting in traffic. This usually gets our work trucks to cool down a little sooner for us while we are loading up.

Don't over do it if you test the AC pressure. Too much pressure in the AC will also make it not as cold. PO on my 93 over charged it and when we moved to the desert I let about 20psi out of it and it started blowing cold in 110F weather. Also test your Idle up solenoid, It should be kicking up your idle when the AC is running so that the compressor spins at the appropriate minimum speed to keep you cool. I think If your idle is dipping below 900 with the compressor running that could be your problem.

My 93 just broke 260,000 this month and Still running strong unlike my 89 which needed a VG33 swap right at 259,999.9 miles

Pulled this out of my old notes... Rancho 999333 are 24.3" extended - works on most stock and lifted pathfinders Rancho 999112 are 26" extended* - more drop travel but MOST springs get really loose and some fall out at full drop (these are what I have) Rancho 999046 are 27" extended* - Requires minimum 3" taller spring free length than stock (these were out of stock when I bought the above) *parking brake cables will not be long enough at full droop so limit straps or flipping your axles (disc only, I think I did a write up on it) is highly recommended.

Yes they will fit. 87-95 Have the SAME port configuration and fitment to the heads and the exhaust system is the same for 87-95. The difference comes when you go to hook your smog equipment up: 87-89 Has EGR and Pulsed air recirculation fittings. 90-95 Has EGR ONLY and the fitting is in a different location than the older models.

Are you using the metal sleeve that keeps the nut from over squeezing the bushing? Are you installing the washers Cup side AWAY from the bushing? Is your LCA bushing in good condition?

Many of "Victor Reinz" gaskets come from a Nissan OE supplier. Their seals on the the other hand DO NOT!!!

Dropped the pin from a broken shifter bushing into the transmission Its still in there. And discovered a loose flywheel bolt was the reason for my clutch sticking....