MY1PATH

How about your radiator cap? replace it, make sure you have the right preassure range. the preassure rating of the cap will define the systems ablity to move coolant in and out of the overflow bottle.

Stock wheel travel lies arround 7~8" the setup was centered around roughly equal travel in both directions.(~4 up ~4 down) your average t-bar and UCA lift changes that to about ~2 down and and ~6up (~1/2" bumpstop gap. So your typical lift will have no effect on the front shocks. Now with rig jacked and changing your shocks.UCA's are on the bumpstops and the shock sill has room to extend (can't remeber but I think its about and inch) so low pro bumpstops and BJ spacers still wouldn't exeed the range of that shock. Now what if you get a longer shock because you are trying to allow more travel (that you are already allowed) and now the shock body is longer. WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU BOTTOM OUT and the shock has no more room to collapse?

the inside of my frame has some sort of idono when you stick your finger in any of the holes and rub arround you get what looks like a mix of vasaline and dirt. not sure what it really is but I assume some sort of CPC...

The gray thing on the right in the onboard air kit notice the reflection on the object doesn't seem to match whats actually in front of it...

I've not heard of this, is you rig too low? what are they rubbing on? ARE you SURE its the wheels? I know fronts and 31's will rub just a little on plenty of rigs. the wheel usually touches the front or back edge of the fender/flare and th

yep, our snouts are pretty long. the balancer starts doing its job better as you reach higher rpm so as long as you see it smooth out when you rev it your good. summit has aftermarket balancers from a company that just started diging up the nissan line of engines. Cost a pretty penny but they are built in a differant fassion that I bleive will reduce you low rpm wobbles if you are concerned about it. Lil heavier but the hieightned efficency is a must for big bores and strokers.

one more chime it. I got my 500*F sockets from e-bay they have not melted or disformed they are not hoding onto the bulbs anymore so they get unplugged with vibration. I'm a look around and see if there's something better for use with High wattage lights.

haha almost all our gound equipment @ work diesels when you shut it off. the colder it is the longer it does so and you can't leave it till its off. I sivered next to compessor unit waiting for it to finally die for Idono how long (prolly over 30~45 min) and I think it was like -5 out.

the revo2's are better I know ppl who had both. the guy with the originals is already wore out the other well I kew him longer and they porlly still on there...

the fire stone MT's are terrrible! ok, not their not, the tread is good for deep snow mud, loam, gravel & hardpack. they are terrible on roots, light snow, ice and wet roads and for the price I'd think it could be designed to @ least work better on wet roads.

aren't those pressed in with a couple tons of force?

actually tons of ppl put a cone filter there and get good results. I see your reasoning and it makes sense with reguard to power not engine operation.... I think alot of outside air is drawn in from arround the headlight(esp if the rubber faps are missing from aroound it) and also from the fender if the existing air box hole has not been pluged. ...cold air is denser so it mixes more fuel which can create more power but that does not mean that hot air makes an engine run bad. Infact the tbi uses a hot air duct from the exhaust to heat up the intake and 20years down the road the control for this duct is worn and lets the intake it much hotter(some actually brun ppl) then when it was new. Red89 has removed that duct all together and has less place to trap heat so his overall intake charge is prolly cooler.

Idono if the 3.3 ecu varies from the 2 3.0 models but for the smaller, 28~3,000 rpm is the transition point from MAF control to o2 contol. This can indicate an o2 sensor poblem which rarely throws a code. Or 'safemode' has been activated which tries to prevent reving over that point. My ecu went into safe mode when My injectors failed, but other things may cause it. No codes for safe mode, you just have to correct the causing flaws whic hopefully will throw codes.

the revo2 is the new tire. (Dueler AT) they are for the same use but it has a little more bite on the trail and if your in a wet climate it also pushes out water better while maintaining the same quiet comfortable ride as the revo.

Based on your wasing and haing trouble right after I'm a start with; get any water under the hood?(wash the engine bay?) the Pre-90 were more prone to misfires if too much water or even vapors got under the dizy cap(points are too close together) Check all your connectors are dry aswell... The initial misfires may have lead to the ash deposits (fireing way too early with incomplete mixture) which of course cause fouling....

Time serts also make a sparplug insert. I have not used them on heads yet (I think stainless threads in alumium parts is a good idea and will likely be upgrading my next set of heads) But I have used them on my UCA bolts. Very good, I would def trust them for all other aplications.

Most the w/d21 hitches go under the frame not arround it or over it. Some use existing holes (that you may need to enlarge) and some requre new holes. You then fish harware over the weled fuel cosmeber inside the frame, the hardware is shaped such that it does not have room to rotate so you don't have to deal with the impossible task of fitting a whench inside the frame. Line up the harware to the holes, lift the hitch inplace in fasten it from the bottom. If your Reece hitch works differant I hope someone else can chime in.

Might I recomend, to everyone, to get whats called a back tap. It slides into the hole and expands on the piston side of the hole It then starts the cleaning of threads from the least used bottom threads and works its way up. bringing all your chips and dirt up thru the top. I used this for the first time years ago to clean up a dicked up hole and the plug went in so smooth that I pulled all the other plugs and cleaned their holes as well. I now run this tool every plug changed to prevent buildup of dirt carbon and anti-seize.

Can you see light thru the radiator if you put a light between it and the the AC? Did you you use more than 50% coolant? ("coolant" is acutually not very thermal efficeint, it prevents boiling, freezing and corosion but the water does 90% of the cooling) Did you burp the system of air? Using purified water instead of hose water may help as well. 3/4 is about normal, my truck used to run that in cali. Higher is a little concerning esp if it crosses over into the H.

sopposedly you can buid a megasuirt for about $200 and fit it for not much more. Its allot of learning but you can get complete and total control of everything. VS jet/jwt re-programs $400 I think indignet was messing arround with re-mapping Might wanna give him a buz if you want something to start with that don't cost you a leg. The megasquirt uses an advanced MAP sensor instead of a MAF sensor. Their data states that this sensor also tracks barometric preassue when the engine is off so that it self calibating to altitude, ambient temps and other common variables in barometric preassure. I works in conjunction with an o2 sensor just like ours does.

not really, If you try to advance the timing on the MPFI it just holds that timing untill it reaches that point in the advance curve and then resumes normal operation. Unfortuantley you cannot lengthen the advance curve either.

LS1 headder bolts from a stock z28 camaro work too. Yes, I tried it. I used to work on my buddies muscle cars allot.

or the spectre performance one for a fraction of the cost. And you don't have 8 bolts to undo http://store.spectreperformance.com/products/productdetail/part_number=9833/2231.0.1.1

WOW that loooks BENT. Once you straighten it the bushings can be found @ rugged rocks. the cups are are outer races for a bearing. I found these ones fit pretty well. McGuire Bearing PN A-S M84510 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21382

Very true.