MY1PATH

Hey I have parking and hydro line spacers in the FS section too.

T-bars should not be measured off of the fender. bodies can sag or even tilt on mounts to compensate for irregualrites on all 4 corners as well as slopes. Find the ride height section and measure based off the frame to ground reference points given there.

My Braided Stainless lines from 4x4parts.com just showed up yesterday. 3" longer at the T and 2" longer at the calipers. I am thuroughly impressed with the visual quality of these lines and the clean fittings.

Today was packie88's b-day. RIP. Everyone be aware of your surroundings and try to be safe. The weather is getting warmer so If you ride be especially aware early in the season. Rest well our friend.

the 3.5 Is VERRY Differant. Size Shape engine mounts and locations electronics emissions Bolt pattern for tranny bell housing Etc... Now a 3.3 on the other hand is very close, all the above is the same or can easliy swap over.

Go wheelin first and then tell us what you think. lol

Try locking only one wheel (3 wheel drive) in the winter streets. It will help you combat the under steer issues and still provide you some pull from up front

Modified round ones (angle iron) can be very stout. But in stock form the I-beams are best. I believe all uppers for all years are round.

LittleReD89 CO94LEV6 PaMountianbiker PA; you lucky SOB enjoi setting up your new toy Happy Birthday

there is also the Nismo LSD for the front of Fontiers and X's. Calmini and 4x4parts.com sell em too. Breakaway settings vary from year to year. The most the clutch based 300zx were about 80ft lbs The Nismo units were a measly 60 and the other 2 still can't tell me what the breakaway is on their product. For reference the stock wd21 rear is 280

Hydro Bills? you mean electric? No. I use a ready welder, it runs off of batteries (Preferably deep cycle) and I top the batteries off with my truck(if needed) when I warm up my engine in the morning. You get allot of welding out of two 12v batteries. I can see maybe another 3-400KW from misc lights and my computer 500w power supply (but I think it only draws that much when its working hard) Witch leaves another 600kw witch might be my rusty heat pump out back. Maybe after they Check my power consumption they will replace it.

Hydro Bills? you mean electric? No. I use a ready welder, it runs off of batteries (Preferably deep cycle) and I top the batteries off with my truck(if needed) when I warm up my engine in the morning. You get allot of welding out of two 12v batteries. I can see maybe another 3-400KW from misc lights and my computer 500w power supply (but I think it only draws that much when its working hard) Witch leaves another 600kw witch might be my rusty heat pump out back. Maybe after they Check my power consumption they will replace it.

The same way you would total a Chevy Blazer by hitting a pathfinder in a residential area...(happed to me) I'm glad nobody was hurt but that really sux. So your insurance it paying for the trailer and she is getting of Scot free? That is really messed up.

Great gifts and allot of march B-days Mines the 25th and so is my anniversary... I asked to not receive gifts because having my family is good enough and I buy myself toys year around.

Now that is nice! Ol blue. I actually looked at a radiant heater for next winter. I wound up getting this lamp http://www.lowes.com/pd_320778-337-PQS45UT_0__?productId=3182629&Ntt=work+light&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dwork%2Blight and it puts down some heat and light but its constuction and assembly leaves much to be desired. and it has not off switch just a plug. I looked at craftsman and its exactly the same thing (maybe assembled better) but it has a 2 stage dimmer in the balast to change its bright ness. In the end I'm going back to get this one. http://www.lowes.com/pd_326183-2121-KBL750WHL_0__?productId=3323060&Ntt=work+light&Ns=p_product_price|0&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNs%3Dp_product_price|0%26Ntt%3Dwork%2Blight the display model is the most rugged of the ones I seen in several stores it has the widest range of pivoting motion (the others could only angle up not down) Power switches, brightness options and it has an outlet right on its face (Will get used allot) Seems like the most functional option for me. It will make an awesome welding aide outdoor work aide as well. If thats not warm enough next winter than a radiant heater will replace old beat up fan heater I have.

yeah I saw that, I guess I'm just leery of using flame based heaters in small areas. Technology has come a long way tho, so I may consider it thanks.

I do not have adequate ventalation for propane. 6ft x7.5ft But hell if its good enough maybe I can throw the doors open and it will still keep me warm. I do most my work with a tinted lense so BRIGHT will not be uncomforatble. I keep a shade 2 (like sunglasses) on at all times and cover it with a shade 9 when welding.

YES, sorry to say it but replace them again. Like I said its something people aways miss so don't feel alone. And take some carb cleaner and blast out all the holes in your lifter galley too.

they only twist a litte from straight drop but they twist a bit more with articualtion. (1 wheel stuffed and the other dropped) Mine are a little tired too but thats why rugged rocks has those johnny joint links for us.

Hmm maybe I will replace my overhead with a heat lamp. I just bought a cheap 500w work light. It puts off some heat and enough light to light the whole room even if its pointed at the wall. Still lots of glare, the damn walls are white. Looks like I need to make a glare hood for my welder. The 500w pointed right at my welding table lets me see everthing thru my dark lense (when I cover the black from glare) so Its certainly gonna be usefull for welding. But this one is cheezy and poor so I'm going to go back and get a better one and a heat lamp bulb. That seems to be the way to go right now...

Idle is the worst thing for new lifters; 6-9PSI On first start up They need to esablilsh thier wear pattern with GOOD oil supply. This is both for the camlobes and the lifter internals. ZDDP also helps because it stops any chances of esessive wear when establing that wear pattern properly. When I did my cams my new lifters rattled like a mason jar full of bolts bringing the RPM up. Then they ticked for less than 45 seconds during the run-in. After that I NEVER heard them again.

yeah its 50/50 with lowes/home depot. Depending on what I'm buing I'll look it up and see who has the better brand. Def home depot for the Millwaulke hole saws and Irwin step drills.

My links don't bind at all and it seems a spacer under my tranny will solve the clearance issue.

when you are in Neutral is your foot on the brake? Do you have any momentum? Try stopping in N on flat ground. Then ease in and out of the the brake while shifting to remove residual torque from the drive line. Thats what I have to do on my 94 auto. I'm sure its an auto thing cause I've never had issue on my 89

hardbody; That led light is nice. Not sure if it matches the intensity of a 500w halogen (intense light is good for welding) and it doesn't give off any heat. sewb; thanks for the feedback on the light. Glad to know it wastes allot of heat energy. your math is good but even 900 less KWH a month would put me at about 2,100 instead of 3,000. The other half is probably the IceMachine, or the rust heat exchanger out back that they won't replace. The closet is MAYBE 9'x9' and about 1/3 of that is taken by shelves so my actual layout and work space is about 6x7.5