MY1PATH

Today after working 13 hours (daylight savings screwed me) I got off work at 7am, made up my Skid plate adapter and welded it to the end of my skid plate. Now I can bolt the stock skid to my new cross member for wheeling Wednesday. Then I went to bed at ~830am. And for those that don't know (or just forgot) this is what happened to my cross member and then what I did about it.

Yes, a federal ECU is a straight plug in swap and can be used on a CA model vehicle of the same year. Federal Auto's ECU's will run all 4 combinations; CA auto, CA manual, Federal auto, Federal manual Federal MT ECU's will only run other MT's; CA manual, Federal manual The Federal ECU has less trouble/ check engine light codes like the EGR code for example and supposedly it has a slightly leaner fuel curve. I have run both federal and CA ecu's in my 89 and cannot tell the difference other than my EGR block off is not throwing any codes with the Federal.

Pulled the plugs on my non-starting pathfinder. they were fouling out with .050-.060" gaps. This MSD box + a 45,000v coil seems to be the culprit for accelerated wear and changing spark plugs nearly twice a year is getting old. So I need to 1 go to a 32,000v coil and keep the box or 2 keep the 45,000v coil and get rid of the box...

yeah the clusters has lots of small changes almost every two years. So may have trouble finding a straight swap.

You're better off swapping in the Infiniti M30ECU. It is the most refined of the SOHC VG ecu and is plug and play compatible with the nisstune system. Allot of N/A z guys go to them and they work well with turbo conversions too. The harness connectors are the same but the wires are not. So you will need to re-pin you wires to match the ECU.

one hundred ninety-nine...

No, gasket. If mounting to a MT you MUST use oil resistant sealant and make sure you get a good tacky bead before clamping fully. The T-case is what keeps the fluid in the MT. AT's you can just use a light coat of RTV if you want.

^ good answer

FYI Pathfinders used 2 different, O2 sizes over the years. the pipes stayed the same except for the older had small bung and newer had big bung.

If your lsd, differential bearings and axle bearings are ALL shot: I would swap the whole thing brakes and everything from a complete JY unit that will run about $300 - 400. Hard to imagine ALL of it is bad tho. The rear axle bearings usually last 300k. A well cared for differential carrier on these rigs can last forever but if the fluid was low or had water in it things could go bad. If its just the differential then just JY third member will do. and that will be under $100. Be sure to change the inner axle seals when you slide them out to swap the 3rd member.

Its in the how too's among many other places.

Yes B. But I believe the above to be a tolerance range.

We had planned to make a measuring tool that bolts in place of the wheel and mount a torque wrench to it. But I don't think it will be made any time soon, If at all. Supposedly anything over 350 ftlb break way range is going to behave as locked on 31" or smaller tires. I was probably at that number with take 2 and above it with take 1. I Can only guess that I am at maybe ~300 ftlbs break away torque. Stock WD 21 is supposed to be around 260-280.

Well take 3 is finished and very successful; It still drives off of a jack but the chirping and hop skipping on tight turns has been eliminated. David and I re-stacked the discs in the same order as take 2 but the inner most disc and outermost plate have been shaved down by 0.015" to allow a litte more slip than take 2. Now I can drive all winter and not worry about my tries wearing out to fast. I think he as a video of the jack test...

The complication with the 3.3 is the crank snout diameters. You either had to fit the 3.0 crank and oil pump or convert your rig to run 3.3 accessories... MR 510 has developed a 3.3 hub crank that your stock 3.0 pulleys can bolt to. I think they will be aprox ~$80 once he gets a run of them done. This eliminates all the extra work and complication. No tear-down and no modification to the engine are required with this HUB. This will make the swap very straight forward; Install the hub, swap the pulleys from the 3.0, swap all the accessories and drop the engine in.

LCA BUSHINGS: If they are fine, leave them alone! Search for replacement instructions, there is a write up here somewhere.

there are many different types of poly / synthetic rubber, and i would not bother with slapping grease on top of it as it is non-penetrating and will just sit there. Perhaps Moogs blue stuff is longer lived than some of the other options out there?

Moog uses blue for their poly and black for their rubber. No they do not say lubricate them to in the instructions but it is a good idea.

YES! Every Pathfinder came with ONE. I'll try to take a picture for you.

This is very likely, If you have an MT because there is no rear seal on the MT, the fwd seal on the T-case and the mating surfaces is what keeps the the fluid in the MT.

my compression rod bushings are moog poly and my swaybar bushings are all energy poly. they swa bushings have been on for about 5 yrs. The compression rod bushings have been there for over a decade. Many people fail to LUBRICATE Poly during assembly. It requires a thick synthetic grease on all contact points and all areas that will squish. Energy suspension sells "energy suspension Formula 5" for this very application. It is the thickest grease I have ever used and it does not like to come off of anything. Little secret; wd40 allows it to be wiped off of most surfaces.

There are Left and Right Hooks!?!?! I've been running two of the same with one upside down the whole time so they both hook outward. But one points slightly down because of the offset.

I believe Nissan pickup shifter will work with a 3" BL with NO boot or sheet metal mods.

33 is R50 and WD22's All wd21 pathfinders are 31

http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/ghj018/MY1PATH/ have at it, browse the whole album.