MY1PATH

are you talking about the factory manual locking hubs for the HB pickup? they are THE strongest hub available for the Pathy and HB. nissan retails $400 new good JY find, for the casual off roader (mine were 20 somethin bucks) Cons; your cv/axles will break before these do. (can only happen if your running a locker in your r200)

Remove your cap from the distro and trace the #1 wire to the # 1 point. (the wire orientation and the points orientation are not the same) now using a large wench on your crank bolt turn your engine untill the timing mark lines up with 0 on the ballencer (the first tick mark on the left) Now with the rotate the rotor to just a little before where the #1 point would be (10 o'clock pos IIRC) and insert it into the head. It will turn a little when you insert it and once it has done this it should end up facing the #1 point. If it seems like its pointing more towards where 2 or 6 should be then pull it out and ajust your starting point so that it finishes @ #1. once lined up put you cap and wires back on and get the engine warm (slowly, don't rev it untill the timing is set correctly) set Idle 600-700 with no a/c radio or ligths etc Base timing for 90+ is 15 BTDC & 12.5 BTDC for the pre 90. Setting timing to 14-15 makes for a litte more highway friendly ride set your idle back to normal 800-900

when the throttle is closed the manifold vacum increases on some vehicles you can feel this change in the brake booster. Could this be what your feeling?

I think the problem is the block(adapter) that goes in the place of the filter is wider than the filter.

vg33, blocks are the same, I beilve VG33 came stock in the following; 1996–2000 Nissan Pathfinder 1997–2000 Infiniti QX4 1999–2004 Nissan Frontier 2000–2004 Nissan Xterra 1999–2002 Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager You can find all the answers in the link on my prevous reply. just click on the underlined "3.3 swap" and read the pages that follow.

could you cut out the backet where its in the way (all exept the L portion to keep your dimentions in tact.) and then have a 1/4" doubler welded over the gap? that would clear you the thickness of the braket or is that not enough? or maybe have a macine shop put the adaper in a lathe and turn it down some? I bet a combineation of the 2 would work.

Like others said, a vehicle wants to follow the road if you think it is more than the normal... How 'bout yer ball joints? Ride height? Lifted WD21 IFS will have a reduced castor IIRC because the LCA is moving farther away from the strut rod thus the strut rod pulls the LCA closer to the lower limit of the castor angle. castor is what makes the vehicle want to return to straight. on the wd21 mechanics say you cannot change it so if its outa spec they usually ignore it however if it is low it can be increased... I haven't figured out a relyable way to decrease it and in almost any case it would not need to anyway. edit; also if your strut rod bushings are shot or worn thin it will reduce your castor.

Mr. Pickles & 88pathoffroad pose a very good point. This is likely to be a handful but I can't help but say It would be really kool if you picked up the scattered pieces and completed it!

how are the sky jackers tho, are they soft or stiff?

I would imagine a converted vg33e would make more than a vg33er because of the higher compression ratio. And tho 50 ftlbs leaves more to be desired from a SC; I say 50 ftlbs seems like more than slight to me.

KOOL!

Ok cutting to the chase here; sorry I didn't read your whole post. backspacing is distance form back of wheel to bolts, you were giving offset numbers (distance from center) -3.75"(ideal) and 4.0" is the backspacing desired for ofroad tires on the w/d21 -8" is the Maximum reccomended with to use on IFS front suspension. 10"+ causes aditonal stress and wear on steering and suspension components up front. -becuse of how 4x4 works on these rigs you migth as well run the same in the back to reduce tire and drivtrain wear. -15x8 and 16x8 wheels with 3.75-4.0 backspacing running 31x10.5 tires will fit on the stock pathfinder with minimal rubbing and no extra issues that I am aware of.

I also have a spare 4x4 lever if you need it. Its in really good shape save for the rubber dust boots that tear so easily. but those are really cheap if you get them from Alkorahil

the vg30 also has a bigger cam letting more into the (smaler) cylinders.... I guess theres just too many variables to be sure.

would the boost preassure go up on the vg30 being that there is not as much displacement to draw in the air?

get the X ecu and injectors to go with it. sounds like a badass pathy project! I'm guessing 180 ftlbs to the wheels will come out of that vg30eR. you may have some fuel issues, (ocatane booster w/ premium or 100+ octane race gass in the worst case) becasue think the vg33er ran a 8.5:1 and I think the vg30 is 9:1. I would try advancing the timing to get it to run on premium before you go commiting to expensive race gass. On the other hand, the X supercharger ran very low boost stock (4 or 5 psi IIRC) so you might be just fine as far as that goes.

your crazy! are you gonna integrate a DOM fender rail into the fender like that X has? or just coppy the trim only? That pic gives me some ideas...

I don't think that would work... I am a little concerned being that your picking up 33's for a 16.5. If I'm not mistaken that is a dieing size... (hard to find rims, hard to find tires once the onces your picking up wear out)

I really like MR JIM's custom plates and his grille guard.

yup! and they're a lil taller than my old 31's maybe that bulge in the headliner for the speakers on the newer wd21's has something to do with it.

if your wire is grounding on something than you light will not come on. It should not effect your cold stating, if you leave the key on run for a few sec before craking it that might help.

!?!? I was able to fit 5 31's and a t-case in the back of my pathy with room to spare. how did only 4 barely fit your yours?

If you can get all the work done for cheap why not go bigger? 3.3 swap basically get a vg33e from your buddy @ the JY and use your old intake manifold and sensors.... Basically make it a VG33i. Check the writeup above, and it wont cost too much more for that extra 10% powergain and a 1-2MPG gain (3.3 heads are more efficent+ bigger motor doesn't have to work as hard as a smaller one)

good thing my keys and locks are only a few years old, living in san-fran they had to be replaced a few times.