MY1PATH

goodrich and maybe a few others make 33x11's & 32x11's and maybe even 32x10.5 tha'd be less pinching on 15x8. I also forgot to mention pinching a tire makes it harder to balance cause the rubber sticks out more from the wheel. If you sas it you can run 15x10's no problem and it opens allot more options for ya. But yeh, like B I'm sticking with my 15x8 & 31x10.50 combo.

B is right about 10 being ideal and plenty of pply run 8's & even 7's. I am primarily in the belief the 10's greatly accelerate wear on IFS components; bearings, BJ's, TRE's... I looked @ it like this when I decided not to buy 15x10's a 8" w/ 4" backspace has 4" of leverage out from the hub and pinch the tire a little a 10"w/4" backspace has 6" of leverage out from the hub and wear out parts faster I gues its like pick your poison.

the harness for it should be on the right side of the engine bay(drivers right). Below the whiper motor there should be a budle coming out of the firewall and some pulggs near the firewall. the O2 sensor uses 2 plugs, one is a single wire and the other is a 3 wire. the 4 wires (in a jacket) run diagonally down the firewall to the to of the tranny there is a flat wire clip there on the tranny and another flatwire clip a little aft and 1/4 way down the other side of the tranny. from that clip it would go to the stock midpipe about 3" from where it met with the y pipe.

get a good straight ruler or calipers that are metric, to avoid going blind 'counting threads per mm' see if you can find a metric 'thread pitch guage' on a keyring set. but honestly; I would start with their z31-300zx kit... you might get lucky and find the lower manifold sud/bolts are the same size (I think intake/injection is the only differance on between the engines). If not that's only what 6 or 8 more you have to get. I think z31parts.com has that kit available.

if you want to post those on my TBI thread so that we have one great collection of information that may pove to be a benifical tool for many future members all in one thread. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23251

I usually order several parts and open them in the store then I tell the clerk the others are wrong when I open the one I'm most satisfied with. the best bet is 1989 300zx turbo studs, the nissan ones are a high grade high heat steel and far better than the oem pathfinder ones. a set of 12 ran me 97 bucks @ the dealer ...but looking back, they are 8mmx1 IIRC on both ends, and I could have used some high grade bolts or ordered the specific size stud from a specialist like ARP and save 20 bucks or more.

if its the soft nylon kind you should be able to get it out easy enough, shoot me an e-mail reminder ghj018@hotmail.com and when I get home tonight I'll see if maybe still have the one from my old radiator. If I do, I'll send it 2 ya.

15x8 with a 3.75" to 4" backspace fits the IFS system very well and you can run a 33x12.50 tire on it just fine so long as you have apropriate BL & SL

Ok I did a component listing, Theres allot of stuff listed w/ pictures and short descriptions. Hope it helps. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry416255

borla makes a 2.5" cat-back but yes it will remove your bottom end. Here's what I have, I'm pretty happy with it. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...st&p=408591

x2 greddy makes on that you can slipinto your coolant line under your radiator hose, the flexibiltiy of the hose seals the wire and then you can run it to wherever.

HID's are not safe for use in halogen projecors; they direct the light upward and ouward from the center rather than foward so the brightest rays are in other drivers eyes instead of on the road. Go with silverstar ultras, Piaa extreme white, nighthawk etc... good halogens and a direct battery relay to ruduce voltage drop to the bulp and save your headlight swich from stress. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/HID.html

for reference, incase your guage is wrong, you should be able to stick a thermoeter in your radiator near the top hose and read between 170-190. The closer to 180 on the VG the better the results.

INFO NOTE. I mislabeled and Item; the FICD is actually the "thermo module" Its function is still to raise the idle for warmup and it is still controlled by coolant flow. FICD is another name used to describe the ilde up ajuster and idle up solenoids. Madcat- I know you were talking about doing a tbi writeup. If you have something to add feel free to do so. Mods- feel free to sticky or move this as you see fit, I just put it in where I thought is was best for now. everyone else- I hope this helps if you need it.

Throttle Body Ok here's where people get confused there's over a dozen components in such a tight space. This time I'm going to show all the pictures first and then do the list. There will be repeat labels on some components to try and help keep on going orientation of the parts location. (To save space on the page I made 'em all clickable thumbnails. So ya, just click to enlarge and try not to get overwhelmed.) _ Mixture Heater- The mixture heater heats the air fuel mixture before it enters the intake manifold. A Few people have gutted the core (not removed) for less flow restriction at the cost of having a rough idle on cold days. Flange- Though this is really part of the mixture heater it is essential that this stays in place even if the heater core is gutted. This flange creates a very narrow gap for the PCV and EGR tubes on the intake manifold, this gap forces carbon buildup and gunk to build up in their tubes rather than inside your heads and block or worse yet from accumulating a piece big enough to score your cylinders. Coolant Lines (throttle body)- These simply allow coolant to travel a short distance thru one side of the throttle body heating it up. Some people have bypassed this for cooler Throttle body temps doing so may affect warm-up on cold days. Fast Idle Control Device (FICD)- This device actuates a fast idle cam based on coolant temperature flowing thru it. The temperature at which the fast idle cam eases off can be set by the FICD Adjuster. The fast idle cam pushes on the fast idle lever and how much this lever adjusts the idle is controlled by the Fast Idle Screw. Fast Idle Screw- Head points skyward and is often mistaken for the normal Idle Screw. When the engine is cold the “fast Idle Cam†increases the idle for faster warm-up. This screw sets the fast idle speed which should be between 1,000-1,200 rpm set depending on how cold your climate is. FICD Coolant Lines- I have not heard of this being bypassed and can't see why one would but hypothetically if it were; the FICD would have to be either removed, or a screw stuck between the 2 holes that meet up in the cam (not pictured) when the device is warm. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)- Tells the ECU what angle the throttle butterfly is tilted acceleration/deceleration air/fuel mapping. Fuel Pressure Regulator- This regulator is supposed keeps the fuel pressure @ 36 psi for both vg30i and z24i. It does not function properly with aftermarket fuel pumps that are more powerful than stock. The Vacuum line shown is very specific because it allows the regulator to open and close proportionally to the throttle body vacuum (variable but always present) so the pressure can keep up with the demand as the injectors stay open longer. Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)- The thin wires are heated above ambient temperature inside the throttle body As air moves over the wires voltage must be increased to maintain wire temperature. The ECU reads this voltage and interprets it as the mass air flow. Dirt can act as an insulator and give false readings. This can be solved by gently whipping the wires with an alcohol soaked q-tip Dash Pot- This seemingly pointless plunger actually prevents rpm's from diving to fast (to a stall) when the throttle is let off. If your rpm's drop dangerously low when you ‘suddenly' let off the gas then try turning the adjuster clockwise. The adjuster is not seen very easily but it is on the throttle opposite the idle screw, turning the throttle (w/engine off) should reveal it enough to get a small screw driver on it. Cruise Control Cam- Acts independently of the throttle cam via the cruise catch lever to prevent a dragging or resistance feeling in the gas pedal Idle Up Solenoids- Under the driver's right side of the air box are 2 solenoids that open a passage around the throttle body to increase idle speed when the A/C compressor turns on or when there is an increase in electrical load. I believe the right one in the picture is for the compressor and the left is for electrical. If your Idle drops when under electrical or A/C usage chances are the Idle up adjuster needs to be turned. Check wires and plugs too before announcing them as broken. If you pull them out they should have a rubber tip, round is good cone shaped is worn and if there is metal showing on the tip it needs replaced. Idle Up Adjuster- This slotted screw head controls how much air is allowed to bypass the throttle body. Counter clockwise increases idle-up(It may tak a full rotation to make a noticeable ajustmet). It should be set so that there is about 50-100 rpm increase when the compressor turns on or electrical load increases (blower motor, rear defroster etc...)

This is a component listing of the vg30i and z24i TBI system. Both engines use the same components shown except the z24i air boxes are smaller. All pictures were taken from my 1989 vg30i and spare parts collection. This is more of a reference page than a straight read and will not be all the information you need On each particular part put it will be enough to get most people going in the right direction and will make for great reference the next time someone says is there a way to adjust the thingamajig and where is it? OUTSIDE THE AIR BOX Air box & Air box Lid- Houses the air filter, Crank case filter and Hot air pickup control module. It can whistle, rattle and let unwanted debris past the filter if not secured all the way; 5 latches around the edge should be springy and fir and the 2 wing nuts should be finger tightened 2-3 rotations further once they touch the lid. Over tightening will strip these very easily. Idle Up Solenoids- Under the driver's right side of the air box are 2 solenoids that open a passage around the throttle body to increase idle speed when the A/C compressor turns on or when there is an increase in electrical load. I believe the right one in the picture is for the compressor and the left is for electrical. If your Idle drops when under electrical or A/C usage chances are the Idle up adjuster needs to be turned. Check wires and plugs too before announcing them as broken. If you pull them out they should have a rubber tip, round is good cone shaped is worn and if there is metal showing on the tip it needs replaced. Idle Up Adjuster- This slotted screw head controls how much air is allowed to bypass the throttle body. Counter clockwise increases idle-up (It may tak a full rotation to make a noticeable ajustmet). It should be set so that there is about 50-100 rpm increase when the compressor turns on or electrical load increases (blower motor, rear defroster etc...) (Another picture of the Idle up solenoids and adjuster can be seen in a following section about the actual throttle body.) A B Valve- Short for Anti-Backfire Valve this valve Reduces backfiring during deceleration. Crank Case Breather Hose- Allows un-regulated Ventilation of the crankcase so that heat, oil gasses and (if) any combustion gasses enter the crank case has a way out. This can reduce stress on the oil and prevent valve cover gasket failure. It vents into the intake and directly into the manifold thru a PCV valve (regulated) for emissions purposes and to keep cleaner air circulating thru the crank-case. Older vehicles just had a vent and maybe an external screen or filter over it. Hot Air Vacuum Motor- Opens the hot air pickup door in the intake to allow air from around the exhaust manifold pickup (also called stove pipe) into the intake and then closes it as the air box heats up. It can become jammed; restricting your intake and keeping hot air flow at all times or fail so that it never opens, a bad vacuum line can do this too. Check your Vacuum Control too if you suspect problems. Hot Air Pickup Hose- This is an insulated high temp hose that delivers hot air form around the exhaust manifold. When old it can become brittle and tear letting cooler air in or the insulation can collapse and restrict the flow of hot air. Idle Screw- Head points divers right, Adjusts engine idle speed; clockwise is faster. 750-800 rpm is typical the typical setting but anywhere from 700-900 is also acceptable. (Measurement is with a warmed up engine & all accessories turned off) Fast Idle Screw- Head points skyward and is often mistaken for the normal Idle Screw. When the engine is cold the Fast Idle Cam increases the idle for faster warm-up. This screw sets the fast idle speed which should be between 1,000-1,200 rpm set depending on how cold your climate is. INSIDE THE AIR BOX Hot Air Pickup Control- This little vacuum control device shuts off when it heats up. If your hot air door is still open after full warm up on a warm day (stick your hand thru the intake you can feel it) then it is either stuck or needs readjusting. It comes form the factory with a hard loc-tite like seal around the screw and the tab next to it (be careful, it's sensitive). Counter clockwise makes the vacuum shut off @ lower temps, try your adjustments in 1/4 turn increments if you feel you must tamper with it. Staying open too much restricts intake air-flow and robs power from "hot-engine hot-air-mixture" and too little makes warm-ups longer and may make richer smelling exhaust from "cold-engine cold-air-mixture" The goal is (hot as in operating temp); "Hot-engine Cold-air-mix" & "Cold-engine Hot-air-mix" Crank Case Ventilation Filter- This catches the oil and particles that come out of the vent so that it doesn't gum up your throttle body or air filter. Injector Cap- The injector cap covers the injectors and holds the Injector Retaining Ring down. It has a Vent on each side and no these vents are not just to cool the injectors. They are to allow air to the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Unlike other vehicles where the MAF is directly in the air-stream the Nissan TBI has separate channels that run beside the throttle body. Injectors- Nissan TBI injectors pulses just the drivers right injector @ idle when cruising or as fuel demands increase both injectors will begin alternating pulses. Don't tamper with these, if they fail they cost allot to replace new or remanufactured. Problems can include leaky, clogged, incorrect resistance and a whole slew of other diagnostics that should be found on another thread(s). You can remove bad ones by pulling firmly on the wires. Remove good ones only by taking the throttle body halves apart and using a hollow point punch or socket to press them out w/o damaging the injector nozzle.

No, the stock CL has not been changed. Go to hoohaa to solve that problem. combine the 2 mods and your IFS steering problems should be @ a minimum.

You will need to use the aftermarket 3" lift springs if you want to use xj springs. Stock xj springs will not lift you.

I put an ovehead console from an 97 in my 89. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...st&p=156155 If your mechanical speedo does not have a magnetic picup on it (behind the speedo magnet) you can easily steal one from another vehicle and your wireing Is already present. leave the ground end alone and splice the other end to the compass wire. run wires for the lights and from your dimmer swich and so on... ...still trying to find a temp sensor...

87-95 pathfinders 87-97 hardbodies My luck is I can never seem to get a windshield off without chipping it. any tricks?

when I went to manuals I noticed no change in mpg as long as they were unlocked.

unfortuately, D21 tail lights are taller than Wd21 tail lights.

no the fast idle is controlled by a unit on the front of the TB w/ a coolant line goint to it. the speed it bums to is controlled by the Fast idle screw which points skyward. the solenoids are on the side they look like 2 hexagon shaped plugs one is about 1" and the other 1.5". there is no lock nut, the screw is imbedded in the side of the TB bewteen these 2 hex cyl. if it has sealant, or dirt over it you will not see it because it sits flush insde its sleve. I have a spare TB maybe I'll clean it up and post a parts/function beakdown w/ pictures for everyone who has the TBI because there is really allot of peices to the UNIT all so close together and some very similar to the adjacent ones.

z31parts.com I beliieve their plenum spacer fits vg30E and vg33E the

on the passenger side of the tbi just above the 2 coolant hoses are 2 Ilde up solenoids. one opens when the A/C compressor is running and the other opens when there is an increase in electrical load(blower, defogger etc) they have either failed, not conneted to the harness or the ajustment screw needs to be lootened to allow more air to bypass the butterfly when they open. the ajustment screw is a large flathead between the 2 solenoids. it may be covered with sealant or rubber. when ajusted correctly the rpms should go UP 50-100 rpms when the solenoids open.