MY1PATH

Pathfinders already have Cold air intakes. they pull the air from the fender well outside the engine bay.

yes, there was the pf hood a flat ventless hood (not common) a ventless hood with a slight hump in the middle(common)

I would have had the ignition re-keyed before you put it in. that way all your keys and all 4 of your locks stay the same.

you can but the 87-95? MT has different gear ratios in favor of wheeling. (.852 5th off the top of my head) The R50 you're looking at will turn a lower RPM on the highway with its stock tranny(.811 5th off the top of my head) and a higher RPM on the freway if you put the 93 transmission (.852) in it. Other thoughts, canibalize the two? use the .811 5th gear from the 96 in the 93 tranny to make a wheeler tranny that curises well?

Kyle, HB's got both lights and all 3 hoods. Pathys only got one lights and one hood.

yeah stick with Glass, or the euro glass in the e-bay link. The euro glass needs H4 bulbs and plugs. Rock auto sells the OE glass ones.

Last I checked Rock auto sells the 5x7's for the HB complete with mounting brackets so all you need is the grille which they also sell. They also list foreign market parts but i do not know if your euro lights are on there...(goes to search) EDIT: no euro bulbs listed and the Headlamp Assemblies are sealed beam only(under body exterior). But for $38 a side that's not bad for getting you started with all new mounting hardware. Upgrade to euro's later and keep the sealed beams as spares. (ADDS ITEM TO CART for later)

IMHO the (hardbody) 5x7's are the best option, they sit farther back, take harder hits when being back is not enough, and the H4 versions (vs sealed beam 5x7's) offer much better lighting in both USDM and Euro versions. Not to mention The 5x7 size will be around forever, they were used on millions of cars around the world whereas the Pathfinder lights were specific to just pathfinders.

EDIT the xpel covers for stock headlights do not fit the clear lenses, order a sheet the correct size and trim it yourself

The OEM European Housings look the same as on the outside as the USDM but run H4 bulbs and the light pattern runs a sharper cut off. http://www.ebay.com/itm/400194581120?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I'm waiting until my bumper includes headlight protection before I get another matching set. I have used a set of the clear ones for many years, They are plastic and the first thing I did was put xpel covers on them. http://www.xpel.com/products/headlight.asp This stopped sand and stones from scratching them up for years and finally it held all the plastic in place when I plowed into a log hiding in a bush... Also, a lot of light leaks out of the top and sides of the lenses so I painted the border to reduce unwanted light scattering. After that they were pretty good. Bright light pattern but not as even as stock, If you aim them so left overlaps right a little it evens out allot.

DO you have a picture w/o the dash of the right side where the blower motor and ac ducts are?

I lied, I just pulled up the MPFI pathfinder wire diagram and my Nistune ECU harness notes. The side by side images told me that the MPFI Pathfinders use the SR20 connector (Very neat and compact) instead of the 'typical' VG30 connector. But again, the diagnostic wires are not in the SR20 locations either. One day I may try to add them and see if I can connect to the ecu.

At this time I have no information to add on connecting a stock pathfinder ECU to any kind of diagnostic interface. The wires for this connector are the same for nearly all 90's vg30 ecu that are capable of using a diagnostic interface but these are not present in the stock pathfinder ECU connector.

ECU Code 31; [Don't] Replace ECU I don't think this has been covered before and it may provide useful to someone someday. If you get a code 31 which is an indicator of an ECU calculation error (how it determines timing and fuel maps) the FSM suggests you replace the ECU with new. A fault within the ECU (shorts, worn out components, broken or corroded circuts, broken or corroded solder joints etc..) can cause this and if that it the case it is reasonable to repair or replace the ECU... BUT a code triggering fault can happen outside the ECU as well and this is what I call a Non-ECU Code 31 (a faked code) So what can cause a non-ECU Code 31? Typically wiring issues, most commonly when a 12v source crosses a sensor input or when a few sensor inputs cross ground. Old heat damaged harnesses might be prone to this as well as rodents chewing on wires but you should also look for places a harness may have chaffed and grounded out on the area chafing it. Also, a jolt or shock to the wiring harness that specifically happened in the harness or a sensor (not inside the ECU) can cause this. Lastly, as I have recenly discovered, trying to connect to the ecu via a conslut device or other means using the 14 pin data connector on the harness when said connector is not wired correctly. What are the symptoms of a non-ECU Code 31? Check Engine Light... Code 31 (possibly others) when you go to pull codes from the ECU. Other Symptoms vary, it may throw multiple codes for the sensors that were shorted or it may throw multiple other codes seemingly at random. TPS (23) and Injector Circut (51) can typically be among this list but again symptoms vary. Often when a code 31 is stored the ECU will not let you erase any of the stored codes in a fasion that you would normally clear stored codes. This is a failsafe to prevent a user from erasing the most critical code in the engine management system. Despite all the codes your vechicle may seem too opperate 90% normal with the occasional hiccup here and there. (worse if your short is causing other problems) How do I determine its a non-ECU Code 31 vs a legitamate code 31 and how do I fix it? A non-ECU Code 31 (and all other codes) can be fully cleared by disconnecting the battery or unplugging the ECU for more than 24 hours. During this time you should check all your wire harnesses for chafing, dry rotting, heat damage, rodent damage etc... If you have done an ECU retro fit, a MPFI conversion, wire harness swap or anything else similar you should get out your diagrams and double check all that too. (Check connector/ 14 pin conslult diagram is not listed clearly in the FSM I will provide more information later) If you had a Non-ECU Code 31 and you found the real electrical problem you should, after 24 hours, be able to reconnect your vehicle and resume driving like normal with no issues, no codes and no check engine light. Summary A Code 31 is not very common (real or fake) but you should always try to rule everything else out before you mistakenly throw away a good ECU. A fake code 31 Its kinda like the ECU gets a little bug and it needs a good hard reset (24 unplugged) for it to shake it and start fresh.

yeah, never said they were good, just popular....

Any welder or machine shop should be able to make a clean airtight weld for you. The bung can be found in some stores and online like summit racing and the sender usually comes with whatever gauge KIT you buy.

Yes, in terms of Mainstream 4cyls found in almost every nissan... that's the KA. In terms of 4 banger modding its kind of a tie, lotta cars that came with KA's got modded with KA's but the SR20 also took a popular seat in the 4 banger modding crowd and is a very common Nissan engine swap

1 Unscrew Banjo Bolt it from the transmission. A banjo bolt is a bolt with a hollow center and a cross hole to feed fluids from a pressurized bolt hole into banjo fitting and fluid line. 2 Run a same size or undersize drill through the hollow tip until it breaks through the other side. (now you have a centered hole in the head) 3 Drill head of bolt with a 11/32" or 3/8" drill STOP BEFORE THE BIT REACHES THE CROSS HOLE IN THE BOLT 4 Drill head again with a drill the size of the lip on the NPT Bung BUT ONLY DRILL 3/32" DEEP 5 Insert lip of NPT Bung into head and weld in place. TIG is preferred because of the small weld size and less cleanup required (I did mine with MIG but it took more cleanup to fit a wrench back on it) 6 Re-install NPT Banjo Bolt into the transmission and then install your temp sender into the NPT bolt. There are 2 banjo bolts, Outlet is on the right near the pan and inlet is on the left about half way up. If you install the sensor on the right side you will be getting pre-cooler temperatures or how hot the fluid is coming directly out of the TC. (TC is where most the heat comes from when unlocked) If you install the sensor on the left side you will get COOLED temperatures or how hot the fluid is going into the clutches and valve body. ( think this is more important because these are the components that are effected the most by excessive heat)

FYI my truck is my daily driver. 0.050" would be reliable so long as you have a thicker sleve made for the T-belt tensioner. Mine is also reliable, 7k miles on this engine and zero mechanical issues from the build. I would say zero Issues overall, but I did have an injector fail. However that injector was ~20 years old and acting up a little before the swap too. The rest of the engine and its parts are new. I am now running r50 injectors (ethanol resistance and possibly better spray pattern) and have not had an issue since.

Tranny pads seldom fail on these vehicles but Torn motor mounts (ESP Driver Side) can be fairly common and will make your shifter jump under load. A clunk under acceleration/braking can also be attributed to upper and lower link bushings being wore out but I think R50's are still too new for those to be a common issue.

Nice work. I considered doing that many times but in the end I went to MPFI. No, not EMP proof but a lead box around the ECU would solve that as long as it wasn't running when the EMP hit.

Lastly, once all assembled and running I found my High CR throttle response was really snappy and I needed to tame it a bit. The Factory Nissan throttle linkages have a ramp to it to flip the throttle faster in the beginning and slower as as it opens wider. I modified this for a constant slow rate from start to finish, smooths out my driving a little bit...

I did the forbidden and Milled .070" off the heads. This is the cheapest way to arrive at a higher CR and it also increases the area of your quench zones. Now Because the heads are moving down closer to the crank it retards the timing because of the slack in the T-blet. A .050" head shave will retard your cams by 1.17 degrees which is nothing to worry about probably runs better that way anyway; My excessive head shave retarded me 1.65 degrees and I find it runs really well at this timing. (using adjustable cam gears I played with different cam timings as well) 0.070" is the most you can take off before you nick the intake valve seat and that's why I tried it. BUT it also leads some intake manifold fitting and sealing problems because the heads sit closer so the manifold catches on the sides of the heads, the studs bind in the manifold and the holes have to be slotted making it ... Long story short 0.070" is too much but I made it work. I was very close to just scraping the heads and starting over. I did a test fit with 0.050" and it works well, CR is more like 9.75:1 but assembly is more trouble free and I really should have left it at .050". To get the best alignment of parts here You should use the 3.0 Lower manifold with the thinner 3.3 lower manifold gaskets. Also, when you shave the heads it puts more slack in the timing belt so the sleeve on the tensioner must be replaced with a sleeve that is 2.5" OD. Then I worked the rest of the heads in the same way as Mr.510 did here http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31418-building-a-vg34-and-installing-it-in-my-88-pathy/ and put it all together using his pulley adapter.

Yeah, they make to do with 33's it also brings the RPM's down on the highway.

I think it is absolutely worth it. But worth it is all relative. So let me try to give you some perspective. A stock vg33e is 180 HP (R50 pathfinder, xterra, frontier) A stock vg33er is 210 HP (Supercharged xterra and Supercharged frontier) My VG33+ is also about 210 (NOT supercharged) The differences in my vg33+ vs a stock vg33e include 10:1 compression ratio (more torque and throttle response especially when done with cams), port worked heads (better flow Potential) Increased quench zone (better VE and runs better on leaner fuel) Headers (more HP and Torque) Euro Cams (more HP and Torque from ~2500 RPM UP) and 2.5* Cam timing Retard (shifts the the power upward a little) Although this seems like allot of modifications I would say 80-90% of the all out power gains came from Cams and headers. The rest of the mods mostly define, how it drives between idle and peak. In other words, if you just did euro cams and headers, you would probably make about 200hp but your throttle response, MPG and acceleration characteristics would be different than mine. This build was targeting a 200hp torquey motor that would be a great Daily driver for a family car. And I does exactly that (only it didn't wind up in the family car lol) It drives great, you don't have to downshift to take the mountain passes and it gets about the same or better MPG as a stock motor as long as you don't romp on it. And I can say I put more to the wheels than a stock 3.0 puts to the crank. I know its not a straight answer but Hopefully it helps.