beastpath

lol, lets get that goin on! haha. Ill try running Mobil 1 10w-30 next time I change my oil and see if that helps. Btw, is it true you can run synthetic oil for almost twice as long as dinosaur juice?

do you think less viscosity at startup would help?

5w-30 too light?

well ill grab some Mobil 1 next time I go to checker....if its good eough for my crotch-rocket its good enough for the pathfinder. hopefully changing to synthetic will shut up the lifters. its embarassing trying to hit on girls in the ASU parking lot and in the back ground is clack, clack, clack.....pause....clack, clack, clack.

lucas is an oil stabilizer additive that I used because I am using up the last of my non-synthetic oil. One more oil change and ill switch to totally synthetic. so if the tick were to become more prolonged or louder with changes in the throttle this would mean a complete failure of the lifter and bad news correct?

In your scale you would have to do timing stuff if you were swapping your motor...... I would say a 6 or 7 on a difficulty scale of 1-10 because of the amount of BS work you have to do to get to the timing stuff. There is a write up in the How-To section that helps ALOT though

so it looks like its the lifters.... lots of people seem to have this at startup....so.... is this a problem? or just something I have to live with? given that this is a rebuilt block and heads, should it still have the lifter tap at startup?

yes, replace it JIC

does that 10% improvement include gas-milage btw? i know everyone cares about power gains, but to me cost of running the thing is important too.

some quarters just in case, non-working radio remote(dead battery that i havent changed yet), tie pins, small bottle of "chest and airway opening" scented oil.

some of the console lids had cupholders in them, otherwise our trucks didnt come with them. The switch for the shocks only worked with the OEM KYB shocks IIRC and was used to adjust ride comfort for on-road(touring) or off-road(sport). If you have aftermarket shocks it is useless.

so im guessing they would probably be kinda hard to find then...lol

haha, great, so 2 responses telling me its the lifters, and 2 telling me its the studs. I'll try tightening up the stud and see if that helps, If not I may have to take it to a shop as I don't have the time right now to do awkward(or majoir if it is a lifter) work on the truck.

here's that pic of mine you wanted. I have 4 Hellas mounted and half wired on it right now.

lol, no need to forgive you, you always do a great job answering my questions. It just worried me for a second that I might have to take them off to get them welded. Alright, now to find a decent priced welding shop... by the way I'm still loving my hubs. all my non-motorhead people are fascinated by the way they lock in to the axle etc. lol.

erm...they are already on my truck. cant i have them weld them already being mounted? YEah i wish they were above the crossmember too.

somebody me. You are totally right MY1PATH. It just didnt click that they were bolted together under the collectors also. That was like a revelation just there. haha I believe I will get them welded in that case. be about $20 at a local welders you think?

So this has been doing this for a while but hasnt gotten any worse, so I'm leaning towards broken exhaust manifold stud.... As some of you know I put a remanufactured engine in my 91. I also put headers on there, and instead of doing the 300z studs I put in locking header bolts. On start up the car ticks/clacks loudly from the passenger side until it warms up. The ticking is sporadic, it ticks for a few seconds rapidly, then there will be a pause. Then she will tick for another few secs, and then another pause. This continues until the car warms up and the ticking is barely audible and much less frequent. When I open the throttle the ticking also keeps in time with the engine. I have used seafoam, and Lucas Oil to see if it was a sticky lifter, but no result. The engine pulls strongly, I get great mileage, and there have been no metal flakes or chunks in the oil or filter when I change it out. I also used a mechanics stethescope and the noise is barely audible when touched to the head gasket cover (I did this in all the locations of the lifters), but extremely loud (almost deafening) when I touch it to the rearmost passenger exhaust bolt. So In everyones professional opinion: Sticky Lifter or Lifter that is hitting the Head Gasket Cover? Or Exhaust Manifold Bolt?

My Thorleys are great and I love them. On the drivers side they sound great, fairly deep and growly. However on the passengers side they sound awful: a more high pitched and ricy revving sound (especially at higher speeds or under fast acceleration). I'm pretty sure this is coming from the area the pipes slip into each other underneath the truck. I did not have this welded or anything, and would prefer not to have it welded just incase I ever need to take them off for anything. Is there a way to seal this connection without welding it?

they shipped my stuff the next day as I ordered in the evening, and it got to me later that week. shipping costs were a bit steep, but still cheaper than going through calmini.

awesome man!

thermostat housing?

me or colby? I dont, just one switch for all four.

I'm using an extra factory light switch in the center console that I picked up from edicer. Isnt my rack already grounded if its bolted to the roof? And its aluminum so it wont rust....but now that I think about it, that would probably be bad for grounding correct? lol. Looks like I may be ripping apart my headliner again to run a ground wire through.

haha, no worries. Yeah I'm using a 40 amp 5 prong relay for 4 lights, two running off each power prong.