beastpath

Go figure: I set out to do a quick 3" suspension lift. Bought UCA's, rear springs, rear shocks, steering stabilizer. $300 My brakes are squealing so I figured I'd change the pads at the same time. Was looking around on here and decided it would be a good idea to replace the caliper pins and bushings too JIC, and to top it of may as well paint the calipers to look nice. $80 If I'm doing the calipers I may as well bleed the brake system and get new brake lines. $90 Today I look under the truck to check on some stuff and realize my ball joints are cracked. $50 Miscelaneous equip: $30 Oh and Discount wants $100 to mount my tires when I get them. Does it ever stop?

Going to replace my brake pads soon. Any suggestions on what brand I get? Thx

Actually there is a way to do a lift for free........... have your parents/significant other/friends/relatives buy you the parts for Christmas

hopefully its just the "baffle" stuck. I had a mechanic work on the A/C bout 6 months ago, and he installed this Freeze-12 stuff. After reading up about it today I find very few shops will even touch your A/C if it has Freeze-12. Has anyone done a 134a conversion?

no there is no change in the feel of the slider. how would I access this "baffle" to adjust it?

yes, but most SL "kits" would come with the springs. the only thing you do to the front is crank up the torsion bars(after getting new UCA's).

where are you looking at UCAs and springs? AC sells UCA's for 200, 3" springs for 130. Package without shocks comes for 300. a complete steering kit is around 100 yeah. Shocks is the killer, depends what you want to pay. I'm assuming the 4" lift you are talking about is the trailmaster? You do know that to do this lift requires rerouting things such as the exhaust right? Get the BL if you want, and even out your suspension, but I would wait to put in new springs till you have new UCA's too. Also, with a BL and suspension lift there is a big chance you will have to lengthen brake lines and such.

AC = Automotive Customizers bought at www.4x4parts.com JGC = Jeep Grand Cherokee, there is a whole thread on why JGC springs are best, what length to cut them to etc etc. AC sells UCA's too which are cheaper and easier to get than Rough Country's, but also of lesser quality. No, you can't use your stock shocks, have to get longer ones. There is a thread pinned in one of the sections that talks about the lengths needed for several different companies. Rancho is considered the best(by most), cheapest are probably SkyJacker. Its recommended you replace your bushings at this time as well, and get a steering upgrade.

yeah, thats the general idea. its not really that simple though. cranking your t-bars without aftermarket UCA's will mess up your alignment. There are many, many, many threads covering this explaining in detail what the best parts are, where to get them, general pricing, installation instructions etc, etc.

pathfinders only have 2 rear springs. are you talking about shocks? 4x4parts.com sells springs if you dont want to go to a yard if you go to the general forums section there is an aftermarket parts list topic which is very helpful.

I changed the temperature setting on my A/C last night as i just wanted it to blow cool air, not cold. Today when I get out there and turn on the car, turn the air down, and it just blows warm. Turn off the air completely, turn back on, hit the a/c button on and off still does the same. Thought maybe it was stuck on that setting so turned it hotter, then back down to cold. Now it just blows hot air. When I got to work I checked the compressor was running and that I could see fluid bubbling or whatever in the dryer. Both ok. Anyone have ideas what the problem is?

search is your friend. If you get the right deals you can come up with a suspension lift for around 3-400, less if you are lucky.

yeah, when I do oil changes I just put a pan underneath so it catches anything. Cant see from the picture very well but there is like 3-4" between the headers and the oil lines. When I get around to it im gonna get some heat covers for the lines just to be sure. The lines actually fit really well between the PS res and the battery, I only have to be careful shutting the hood as they don't always coil into just the position I need, lol. Shall see how it goes and make adjustments as needed. Thanks everyone

Ok, gonna post some pictures. But first... Any comments and suggestions are more than welcome, I in no way claim to be an expert, in fact this was my first time doing anything major to my truck. I didn't rebuild the engine myself, bought a refurbed one then put it in etc. The heads and everything were put on there by them, but I did check the timing, and piston movement before I installed the engine. Hmm. How long is a while for breaking in Hydraulic lifters? Have been driving it for a few months now. And I hope I don't have a header leak, those locking bolts were a PITA to install. Ok fun part.......pictures Engine bay overall view MSD location Header and Paintjob Relocation kit Just another angle of the bay What are peoples thoughts?

Thanks so much for this how-to. It really helped as the instructions from MSD are crap. I would suggest crimping the wire connectors in such a way where you can easily unplug the MSD system and reattach the original wiring.

That sounds like an awesome and simple mod....if it works for the pathfinder that is. Keep us updated.

Hey all! Its been a while since I've been on here, but just wanted to let everyone know I got my engine finished! Took a while for all the parts to get to me and then even longer as I had to send some back for replacements but finally got everything done. Now I have a remanufactured 3.0L with Thorley Headers, locking header bolts, relocated oil filter, MSD offroad ignition, 8mm spiro pro wires, NGK plugs & oxy filter, and custom valve cover paint job. Started up straight off the bat, but there is a loud ticking noise which comes from the passenger side valves(maybe). Im thinking its a sticky lifter as I'm pretty certain I did the timing etc just fine and it goes away after a min or so of warming up. Only other problem I have is oil leaking from the rear of the valve cover onto the header!!!! Again on the passenger side. Have to make sure the torque specs are ok again, and just torque it down if not. Otherwise have to replace the seal Runs just fine tho. Now I have to adjust the torsion bars to make sure I'm even, replace all the rubber bushings at the front, and get new tires. Also a good car wash seems to be in order.

I'm doing the timing, have #1 postition at TDC, and belt is on correctly. I point the distributor rotor towards spark connection #1 on the cap right? Says to do that in the book, but then says that it should be in the 11:00 clock position, which is not where spark plug #1 is located! I hate the haynes manual, lol.

The shade should screw in to the two locations, one of which is shown in your second pic. The connecting screws are shown in your first pic. To screw them in you just turn the plastic knob on the other side of the connector. IIRC there is also one or two slide in connectors on the opposite end of the shade to hold it steadily in place. These should be slid in before tightening the screws of course ;-). I dont know about different connections for different years.

Is RTV just a brand of silicone? If so, is there a specific type that you use, or is it just general auto or something?

Ok, have finally got my engine. How silicone hungry are these things?? Does it take just a dab or a lot to seal up any gaskets? Or none at all? Will post pics etc when i get done.

I have a '91 Auto SE whose engine I have blown. After 2 replacement engines that were the wrong type, I'm thinking about convincing the engine remanufacturer to modify a VG33 engine to fit in my SUV. From what I've read on the forums: 1. The 3.0 crank shaft should be put in the 3.3 block. 2. The 3.0 oil pump and water pump should be used on the 3.3 block. 3. The 3.3 heads are used. 4. 3.0 valve covers. Is this correct? Anything else that needs to be transplanted or modified? I think I've read almost every post out there for this, but some are so old and have conflicting information. (also: the 3.3 has a knock sensor location in the valley too right? lol) Thanks guys.

Was wondering if that would work too. But wouldn't a 91 ECU find a fault and turn the check engine light on?

I could almost cry! I recieved my 2nd remanufactured engine on thursday from the freight company, measured the crank to make sure it was the right size, and took it home. Got everything set up again, started pulling apart my old one and cleaning things, and transfering them over to the new one. Boy oh boy was I excited, everything seemed to be coming together, and we got a lot done. Today we went out to do more of the same, but after a while words of doom were spoken. "Houston, we have a problem." There is no bolt hole for the Knock Sensor on the new engine!!! And indeed no Knock sensor as I believed all reman engines came with. On the original its in the valley at the back, as I'm sure most of you know. My questions are: has anyone relocated the knock sensor, and if so where? and what are the shortcomings of relocation, if any? Any help would be great, I really dont want to return another engine, especially after all the work thats already been done.

So theoretically I should be able to use the 86-89 on a 90-95? What would you do to block the AIV hookup? or would you need to? If you look at the pictures of both of them the right hand side gasket does look flipped though.