Phantom01Pathfinder

yah post more pics please!!!...your trucks together look awesome!!

I second what mr07 is saying also. Save until you can get it all done at once. I piece mealed mine together and it cost me an extra $100-150 labor. I put new struts on my pathy 3 months before i got the lift...I should have just did it all at once. If anything use the money you are setting aside for wheels and/or tires and get all the necessary hardware for the lift...struts, OEM hardware, coils, camber bolts etc. You can always drive around on your stock wheels/tires for a while before buying new ones...I drove on mine for 2 months before i could afford wheels and tires

Towed my buddies boat from the front of his house to the back...suspension barely sagged

I 2nd that. its sooooo clean!

Dont by the GSP one if you have a lift, ill pretty much gurantee that the boot will tear There is no difference between the AWD and 4x4 axle. What you need to do to change it out is jake it up, use jack stands please!...Then take the wheel off, if you have auto hubs you need to take the dust cap off, then take off the snap ring. The snap ring is not that hard to take out, but difficult to see. After that, unbolt the lower A-arm, 1 bolt in front and 2 in back. Carefully lower the A-arm down as not to ruin the balljoint. I set mine on blocks of wood so that its just not hanging there. Unbolt the 6 bolts that connect the CV shaft to the front diff, they are grouped in pairs. Then bang the hell out of it with a hammer. If youve never taken a CV out before, its going to be rusted/stuck on pretty good even with all bolts removed. PB bolt blaster works well for this. Make sure to hold onto the shaft when banging on it with a hammer. The shaft should then fall down, then just slide it out of the hub, pushing towards the passanger side. Then install new shaft opposite of removal. Torque everything to spec. Hope this helps.

D a m n man i am sorry hear about this. The truck did its job in keeping you safe. Maybe the motor and trans are still good?

do you have the gas struts that hold up the rear hatch?

Thats beautiful

i dont recall and i threw the box away. the box was blue if that helps All i know is that it said made in china. the shaft itself didnt break, the boot tore and was oozing grease all over...

Are you running a lift or stock? If your boot hasnt been torn for long and you have a lift, just buy new boots from Rockford Constant Velocity (www.rockfordcv.com). I bought a replacement CV axle from Advanced Auto and it lasted about a week, and i didnt even have the hub locked I have a 2" AC lift. It is not to difficult to replace the boot, and it'll save you $$$ from buying a new CV shaft.

keep 'em on

If you got any cash left over, I suggest investing in some new CV's or just new boots from Rockford Constant Velocity. I replaced my passanger CV a month after my lift cuz it tore. Then the driver side tore a few weeks after that. Then I finally got the better boots and had them replaced because the cheap CV i bought from the parts store only lasted 4 days. Even with Warn manual hubs the boot still tore. My boots have survived one offroad trip so far...

get the HD springs. the ride is going to be stiff anyways that way just incase you do decide to upgrade the bumper you wont have a sagging front end

Id go with the one thats got more adjustability, just incase you get wicked camber when its lifted. But im sure others will give some input...

When im not fixing or driving the Pathy im cruizing in the Bimmer ('97 E36 328i)

I just paid the $30 per side cuz i didnt want to wait longer to get it from somewhere else. But amazon has them i do believe. Best of luck! Your going to love your lift

You will get mixed reviews when it comes to which lift to go with. Read some of the other threads and see how others have decided. Ive got the AC lift from 4x4parts and i love it! if you have saggy suspension you will get more than 2in of lift. I didnt take measurements, but i would say i gained 3 - 4in. Over time it will settle. When my lift was first installed, the front was higher than the rear, but the front has settled and i have the raked look.

Still cleaning off the mud from my Badlands trip

32's will be ok if you want to do some trimming, but 12.5 i think is too wide... Ive got 245/75/16 Goodyear Duratracs and I love them...it lookes like i could fit a bigger tire but when fully locked, i barely clear inner fender. I rub the front bumper in reverse, left and right. You might want to do some fitment tests before ordering tires, because all manufactures sizes vary slightly... Best of luck! Oh and you'll have somewhat of a limited selection of tread patterns if you go with 32's...thats another reason i went with 31's

Yah one made for pathfinders from 4x4parts. but Rick13 said he didnt use one, so now i dont know

I saw it on 4x4parts.com...it is $16 for the adapter

i was looking into this a while back and you have to buy an adapter plate or holder because the factory one isnt big enough...

As far as I remember, keep the 2 screws and plates on. I have manual hubs so i dont remember much of the auto. In order to remove the CV shaft you need to disconnect the lower A arm (i think?). One bolt in the front, and two in the rear. Once that is disconnected and lowered (stack up blocks of wood so that the arm doesnt fall to the concrete and ruin the balljoint), remove the 6 bolts that hold the CV to the front diff. then just pull the CV out. hope this helps

Looking good!