Phantom01Pathfinder

i recently got this code too about 3 wks ago. I bought a new vacuum control valve bypass valve...at least i hope i got the right part. part number 14920+A. I havent changed it out yet but ill post back with results if it works... if that doesnt work then ill probably look into the charcoal canister Ive been getting terrible mpg's because of this code...about 12mpg

ok just thought i'd ask

Wow you guys really run your tires at 40psi?...or there abouts...if you run pressure that high wont it wear out the center tread blocks faster??? Ive got mine about 28-30psi. It has a nice solid footprint...about 1/8" from the edge of the tread blocks

this is going to be a dumb question, but what is the benefit of having dual filters?? better filtration? and every oil change you have to buy 2 filters...

Dang man i can't wait to see the final product!!! I hope you do a very detailed step by step, eventually i would like to do a SAS

thanks davo...its been a while since ive looked under my truck to figure this out, but good to know others are designed the same way. got to deal with a EVAP leak...hmmm

I knew i wasnt when i counted 4 underneath...

I do believe the R50 have 4 cats...a pre-cat and post-cat on each bank...

i know this is off subject...but dang youve got 250,000 miles on your '01? You must drive everywhere!! ive considered getting OEM bushing, but others here can probably tell you that poly will be better...im sure you'll pay more up front but might last longer... i havent decided yet either...

glad to see someone try a new lift supplier keep us posted with updates...and maybe an offroad pic or two

Its not actually a body lift since the R50 is a unibody... (i think you understand how it works, just didnt explain it correctly) the spacer just increasing the angle on the CV, in turn giving more lift

dont worry about it sometimes i search for a topic for 10-15min and end up changing words around and looking through 20 pages or so before i find my answer... and i understand that sometimes you just want an immediate answer instead of wasting time looking, but more then likely you'll find more useful information (in addition to what you were originally looking for) when searching.

just do a little searching and you will find the answer... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18663

Im not a Michigander"er" haha, but i am close enough! Where abouts in the north do you plan on wheeling? Welcome to the Family

did you grind down your calipers?

Just go down to your local Discount Tire and buy 'em. They have the best prices, at least in my area they do.

a Wix filter??? ive never heard of that

at 65 that RPM seems high. If i am cruising at 60 (which is actually 65 due to my speedo reading faster then it actually is) i am right at 2000 rpm. I find it weird that there is such a difference in rpm with others that have the 3.5 engine

i replaced one of my CV's joints with one from advanced and it lasted a week before the boot broke and i was mad. If i were you i would rebuild the oem shafts and buy Rockford Constant Velocity boots...my boots were torn after 2 months of being lifted. i know your not talking about torn boots, but oem is the only way to go with the CV's. After i rebuilt my CV's, i also had a clicking noise, but it eventually went away after driving around a bit. i also noticed that when i had an oem and advanced CV in....the oem was not at such an extreme angle as the crappy chinese one from advanced... Do you have manual locking hubs? if not, i would also recommend those...i only lock mine when its snowing or i go wheeling

thanks to everyone who responded. ill be including my spare in the rotation

you can but its recommended that you just replace the struts when its all out, plus if you got alot of miles and they are original you could run into problems down the road. and the stock shocks will work but you'll have very little suspension travel. if you going to do it, get it all done at once so you dont have to mess with it later... the AC coils replace the "factory coil springs", so i am kind of confused about why you said suspension..

thanks steve, i only have about 6k on my new(ish) duratracs and i was thinking of throwing the spare into the rotation. I just got them rotated a few hundred miles ago. i ended up buying the spare later the the original 4 this may be a dumb question but, how exactly do you rotate? I was thinking that when i do ill take the spare and put it on the right rear, then just take the right rear and put it in the cargo rack. (and yes i ended up buying a cargo rack already ). Then the next rotation, should i go counter-clockwise around? and always take the left rear and put in the cargo rack or...

If you have a fullsize spare, do you include it in the rotation? Since i have a matching spare now, i just thought i would get opinions... thanks

installed my Yakima cargo rack...wohoo!! now to get the spare up there...

**drooling** dang that thing can really move! that almost makes me want to turbo mine