Phantom01Pathfinder

01silvapathy has it right: intake, exhaust, plenum spacer, and cams is about it. Unless you got a bunch of cash you can custom build all of it

What you are saying is true, that is if you have the transfer case that is the knob (which is the All-mode 4x4 on just LE models) and not the lever. I dont know the type of transfer case the All-mode is, but the manual lever one is a TX10 i do believe. Other members have mentioned about the 4x4 light coming on on the dash, but ive never had this happen. if it is a concern just lock the hubs if going on long distance trips. ive had my hubs for a while now and drive with them unlocked most of the time, but WARN says that once a month you should lock them and drive around just to make sure everything mechanically is still working, and lubricated. But now that i say that, i know this week my 4x4 dash light will come on,

thats great so are you going to buy both motors? hehehe

whats the status on your motor swap?

You are correct in stating that a 245/65/17 is taller. The first number (245) is the tread width in mm. The second number (65) is the aspect ratio (height of sidewall) , which is % of sidewall height to the width. and the last number is rim diameter as you already know. Hope that helps.

yah you should be ok. my Goodyears are 245/75/16 and i think they look great!

Here is my '01 right after the AC lift...I ran stock wheels and tires i think for 2-3 months notice how the front is slightly higher then the rear. This was back at the end of February... This is how she sits currently...new wheels and bigger tires...settled some And this was with a bunch of tools and equipment in the back...maybe a couple hundred lbs worth

OH no that perfectly good fender!! just kidding. I think you did a nice job on cutting them and give you lots of credit for doing something not many would attempt, but i personally dont like the look of how high the front fender is now. I didnt think the front flexed that much...Did you cut all that off for a possible SAS in the future???

They will all rattle...half of mine are off and some still remain...been rattling for the past 25k miles, only sitting at stop lights in gear, if in neutral the rattle goes away...Always plan on taking them off but...you know how that goes...

Mine use to do that too. Same side and everything, but mine was probably caused cuz it had a hairline crack in it. Maybe check for cracks I just took a blow dryer to dry it out and put some silicone on the crack...no problems so far and that was a year ago...

Gotcha Ok i have another question. I read somewhere online that when you get bigger tires and dont change gears that the odometer is also off. By that i mean its tacking on miles faster then it should be or slower then it should be...is that correct??? I dont fully understand it...

more pics please!!! so you put a 12.5 wide tire on stock wheels...thats interesting who did the install for you? i am assuming your running stock gears correct? should you re-gear since you running a tire thats so much bigger then stock? when im cruizing at 70mph i think i am at 2250-2500rpm. havent gone 70mph in a while tho Even tho your speedo says 70mph...if my calculations are correct...your actually going 84mph. New tire diameter (35")/Old tire diameter (29") x speed (70mph) = corrected speed (84mph) But i cant see going 84mph at 2k. Please correct me if i am wrong...

wow i feel like an idiot now...should have realized the km/h. haha

Do you have a built motor? I find it hard to believe a WD21 can do 130+

How deep of water did you drive it through?

that is correct...negative backspacing pushed the wheel out future from the strut there are countless lift questions all over this forum, so you shouldnt have a problem getting an answer! and to the family

The eyelets on the tops and bottoms were too big so i bought i believe 5/8in diameter copper tubing to press into the shock mounts. Those worked for the tops, but on the bottoms i used garden hose type material because the 5/8 copper tubing didnt fit over the studs on the bottoms. The garden hose type material i used on the bottom, i have no idea what the size was, just found it laying around the garage and it ended up working...

i run with mine unlocked the majority of the time. lock them every once in a while and when on the trail. my factory boots ripped within weeks of installing the lift. I upgraded to Rockford Constant Velocity boots and they've held up so far...(fingers crossed!)

My last set of tires I had was the Geolanders AT/S. Actually still have them on the factory rims. This is definately the way to go. Good all around tires for all seasons, and doesnt affect mpgs. Ill be the 5th to agree to this brand. Currently i have the Goodyear Duratracs and i love them, but i dont drive my pathy everyday...Id get an AT if it was my daily driver

I have almost the same setup as you...minus the CAI (i just have the dropin filter) I am interested to see how you have you exhaust setup too...

i got 16x8 from 4wheelparts.com with -3.75bs and i only rub slightly in reverse full-lock right and left...even tho they took 7 weeks to get...it was worth it. and only cost me $300. I personally like how they stick out a little more then stock...it looks more .... i agree with xplorx4...get 16x8

nice water crossing pics!

I am running ProComp ES3000's. No complaints here...just had to modify them slightly to mount up.