Phantom01Pathfinder

at 65 that RPM seems high. If i am cruising at 60 (which is actually 65 due to my speedo reading faster then it actually is) i am right at 2000 rpm. I find it weird that there is such a difference in rpm with others that have the 3.5 engine

i replaced one of my CV's joints with one from advanced and it lasted a week before the boot broke and i was mad. If i were you i would rebuild the oem shafts and buy Rockford Constant Velocity boots...my boots were torn after 2 months of being lifted. i know your not talking about torn boots, but oem is the only way to go with the CV's. After i rebuilt my CV's, i also had a clicking noise, but it eventually went away after driving around a bit. i also noticed that when i had an oem and advanced CV in....the oem was not at such an extreme angle as the crappy chinese one from advanced... Do you have manual locking hubs? if not, i would also recommend those...i only lock mine when its snowing or i go wheeling

thanks to everyone who responded. ill be including my spare in the rotation

you can but its recommended that you just replace the struts when its all out, plus if you got alot of miles and they are original you could run into problems down the road. and the stock shocks will work but you'll have very little suspension travel. if you going to do it, get it all done at once so you dont have to mess with it later... the AC coils replace the "factory coil springs", so i am kind of confused about why you said suspension..

thanks steve, i only have about 6k on my new(ish) duratracs and i was thinking of throwing the spare into the rotation. I just got them rotated a few hundred miles ago. i ended up buying the spare later the the original 4 this may be a dumb question but, how exactly do you rotate? I was thinking that when i do ill take the spare and put it on the right rear, then just take the right rear and put it in the cargo rack. (and yes i ended up buying a cargo rack already ). Then the next rotation, should i go counter-clockwise around? and always take the left rear and put in the cargo rack or...

If you have a fullsize spare, do you include it in the rotation? Since i have a matching spare now, i just thought i would get opinions... thanks

installed my Yakima cargo rack...wohoo!! now to get the spare up there...

**drooling** dang that thing can really move! that almost makes me want to turbo mine

I have done my fair share of highway snow driving with them. I keep mine around 25-29psi so that it gets a solid footprint and so i dont wear out the center lugs. In one instance, what is normally a 20 min drive to my girlfriends house took an hour due to whiteout conditions. I put it in 4wd and hit the road. we probably only had 6inches of snow but the wind was blowing around 35mph. I was cruising along at 25-30mph, while other cars were creeping along. Traction is incredible compared to my old Yokohama's. And they are not near as loud as MT's are...

I too and running the 16x8 with 3.75 bs Procomps rock crawlers... been great and clear the struts without a problem. of course im runnin 31's and am pretty sure i can do 33's, but i dont want to trim the fenders

I vote for the duratracs...they have been great so far and have great traction in snow and ice. they clean well in the mud and do decent on the rocks...

Man do those thornbirds look awesome!!! I wish i could afford some, hahaha

Tried out POR15 on some rusty areas, wheel wells, fenders, etc. Ill have to see how it holds up... Got my Yakima cargo rack yesterday...just got to put it together and throw the spare in it and ill be good to go

ha i havent seen 17mpg in a long time... the worst ive got this winter has been 12mpg running 4x4 for at least 1/2 the time and the hubs locked for the whole time. Almost reached 200miles to the tank haha. now since the weathers warmed up a bit and ive unlocked the hubs, ive been getting about 14-16mpg split 60/40 city/hwy.

thanks for digging this up bud time to investigate this weekend

hey then i also have a 2001.5 model year...manufactured 11/00

Do it. i have a similar muffler (mines 18" long instead of 22", i think haha) Yes they are reversible. It sounds so much better then stock. Also ditched the resonator. My muffler man made adapters to go from smaller diameter to larger diameter. Installed in 2007 and still looks good. Also went with stainless from the muffler back.

That is............AWESOME!!!!

I second that...

isnt brembo really expensive??? If you are looking for a more reasonable choice, look into autoanything.com...i got hawk suv pads and ebc rotors... been great so far

Can you post a pic of your set-up?? I find it so hard to believe that it doesnt rub anywhere...but each tire is different... I want to see a 33" tire with a 5"bs not rub the strut mount

appearances are deceiving. There looks to be plenty of room in the wheel wells for 33's The 31's I have barely clear the front and rear of the wheel well/inner fender when going forward at full lock. it rubs the front when going in reverse. And there is approximately 3/4 - 1" clearance from tire to bottom or strut with the -3.75bs i have. So i wouldnt say its impossible, but lots of trimming would have to be done to make 33's work

Paid $9200 for my '01 back in 2007, then she had 80k on her. Currently she has 132k. From what everybody else is posting, it seems like I paid too much