Phantom01Pathfinder

why would i not be able to open either links? correction i got it.

I thought this only affected Maxima's and the Cube?

I couldnt sell it for that cheap I imagine shipping to Arizona is not cheap from Indiana for something that weight 25ish pounds and it oversize.

When i had my 31" spare on the roof, i noticed only a slight decrease in mpgs. What bothered me the most was wind noise and whenever i went over a decent bump it made noise. I'd check it every once in a while to make sure it was secure, and it was. Shook it back and forth, everything was tight. Maybe the weight of the tire flexed the rack a bit??? i still dont know. I took the rack off months ago and just have the spare in the cargo area now... Are you looking to buy a rack?

And I thought I was the only person who loved wagons

If you have an automatic, Im not sure you can swap in a manual. Due to the fact that the auto pathfinders have some sort of power valves right below the upper intake plenum, i think, correct me if im wrong. Read up on this...http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/14826-power-valve-screws-falling-out-on-35s-01-04/ There should be a picture of an engine from a pathfinder with a manual trans that shows no power valves Manual pathfinders dont have the power valve in the intake plenum...maybe you could just take the power valve assembly out all together? Just thought Id let you know.

i am interested to see 1/4 miles times if your dyno'ing 400hp

Ive got an '01.5 LE and have everything except leather. Heated mirrors, sunroof, tow package etc. Maybe 96-99.5 and different package options compared to 01-04?

I still cant get over the fact that rocky2 keeps mentioning top out, cv angles etc. We get it. Once the geometry is changed on something that wasnt meant to be changed, it will have a domino effect on other things. Everybodys pathfinder is different. I am sure everybody researched lift options before making the purchase that was right for them. I commend you once again for doing what you are doing to modify and fix the top out issue, etc. Why did you go with the AC lift if you knew it would have issues though? To try and fix it? Dont take what i just said in a rude way, im just looking to understand why you think we try to "cover up" problems. snow4me...the truck looks great lifted!!

So i have been following all the threads concerning strut top out, and/or modifying them to correct it. I just want to say congrats to rocky2 as he has done a good job working on modifying struts to try and fix the top out issue. I also feel that not everybody has as severe of an issue as others. When i first installed my lift about 2 years ago, it did top out alot for the first couple weeks. Since then it might top out once every month or two. So personally i see no need in trying to modify the struts. And if you drive more carefully it shouldnt top out at all. When i measured my new AC springs compared to the factory ones, there was less then an inch difference. Pezzy has been running her lift for how long, 5 or 6 years with no issues? I see no way to extend the length of the strut to get rid of top out without it affecting the CV angle or balljoints or anything else in the front suspension that would lead to premature wear. Im sure this post will open a can of worms hahaha Debate on my friends!!!!

Dont take this the wrong way but...have you used the search function at all??

Did you weld yours up or just bolt them up?

So every year i always get corrosion (i hope i spelled that right, ha) around the positive terminal. usually right before winter starts. I always use the felt pads under the terminals and spray terminal protector on neg. and positive posts. None of my parents cars have issues and neither does my wifes 328i. any ideas?

If the interior and body is in good shape, and all other mechanical items are good except the motor i would keep it and install a new used motor. whats the milage?

Im with Daddy Rim on this one. Ive got the AC lift and wheels with 3.75bs and 245/75/16's. It does rub in reverse (just a little in the front) but plent of strut clearance. Good luck! if you get the duratracs your going to love them

have you driven her yet??? howd the steering turn out? (no pun intended )

So i am wondering if you should have just installed the 2" lift first...drove it for a while to give it time to settle, then installed the 1" spacer I personally never liked the idea of the spacer . Just causes more stress on the CV's

I got floor liners from autoanything.com and they are the Husky brand. great quality and price. comparable to weathertech at a cheaper price.

Ive got ProComp 3000's too...been good for a year and a half and 12k miles... Been pleased with them ever since i bought them

yah that is amazing to say the least...great work!!

well mine came back on a weeks after i got the valve changed... so now i dont know what to do...maybe charcoal canister...

this is going to be a dumb question...but...how exactly do you lift the front/side if you dont have rock sliders or a steel bumper??? I can visualize the rear with a hitch and just lifting it from there... thanks I was going to get one but then thought it would be pointless...

well i replaced the vacuum cut valve bypass valve 2 days ago and no more CEL. whoever thought to put the sensor above the rear axle are far up as possible is crazy i used part number 1490+A...

I wasnt sure if that function still worked even with the battery disconnected...ok thanks And i cant believe i didnt think of that...haha

Is there anyway to lock the rear hatch manually when the battery is removed?? And i am not talking about the battery in the key fob, im mean the actual battery in the engine compartment? You may be asking why not just install the battery and lock it...its a long story haha