nunya

I'm with B, not completly knowing the situation I'd rather fix what I got and love than make payments on someone elses headache (or buy new... bleah). Either was, also as B said feel free to stay a spell

And a matching purse and heals...

There's actually a guy local to me who can repair busted alloys, but trick dependent (and my mood) I like some steel action. And the are generally more affordable to boot

In my case, it was hinge failure. You could see the crack where it was coming apart

I've had one drop on me, fourtnatly 1 screw held and it angled itself between my spare tire and hatch so I didn't lose the wing.

sorry, I have plans this weekend

X2. The running lights run on a different side of the bulb than the brake light so just because they work don't mean the other side ain't burnt

Yea, that's nothing new and ground breaking... Even at r50 times, just the style the shade is for the style sunroof a r50 has

Maby he didn't throw it hard enough, you know arthritis and all

A good proper bleed is in your near future, sounds like air to me.

that alone made me want to quote him Could also be a wheel bearing issue, using the method described already you would be able to diagnose that as well (again with a second set of eyes and proper/safe lifting methods). A bad/loose enough wheel bearing would let the whole wheel/tire/brake assembly 'wobble' while driving causing the rotor to constantly extending the pads inside the caliper giving you a 'soft' or 'low' pedal until the pedal is pumped up and the pads are in good contact with the rotor again. Just another theory to throw in the mix, but as B said check that there are also no obvious leaks and all braking materal is still in good condition and a good bleed as well.

took my hitch basket off and just threw my bike in the back, one less rattle for now (as long as I'm biking by myself )

at least I don't feel like a complete maroon who cant read a tape measure now

like they say, measure twice-cut once. I'd rather have a few measurements from multipule people as well if I were in your shoes too.

My tape measure (checked both sides as well to make sure both are = ) sais lowers from center of bolt to center of bolt, 20 11/16", uppers from center of bolt to center of bolt 10 11/16". This is on an 88 4x4 2 door with round tube style uppers and I beam style lowers sitting on the ground on it's own weight. I'll check for more measurments in y FSM once I'm home too FSM's RA (rear suspension) section gave no lengths on the links, sorry

I'll measure for you before I go home today, I didn't bother honesty thinkin someone else would have jumped. My faud for assuming

Document the part number for the correct belt please as well, if I can get away with a simpler install I might actually USE one of the Quest alternators I have laying around

Why not drive your other car until it arrives? Wait... Then you would have to be seen in a Miata

I seem to see the common trend being the TBI people are the ones who have to space the pully swap while the MPFI people seem to not have to most cases

Nobody was hurt (well besides the litlle bit of self inflicted, which is understandable) and pieces of the suspension are replaceable. I ain't gonna drone on about what 'coulda-shoulda', just gonna go with glad your unscathed and start turning some wrenches to put it back together

There's a super clean blue 4x local here, but the guy makes my stockpile of pieces look like a couple cross threaded lug nuts thrown in a scrap pile (he used to race them, and parts with stuff even less than me, belive me I've tried to the point I followed him home once )

VW people don't count, they rust their cars on purpose!

Remember, your running the rest of the system dry with no pump, not exacty friendly on your rack... I've done it but don't suggest it

pics belong to unccpathfinder and are his truck not me.

Wheelin is a non-sexist, full on family friendly sport/hobby/money taker, it would be wrong NOT to have some amenities for all!