nige

how are your vacuum lines

polymer eh? i think i'd rather have steel

partsfinder

but did your carpet light on fire? mine had the same holes as GG's did in pretty much the exact same spot. The holes in the floorboard weren't as bad, so i used fiberglass and JB weld for the small holes. I heard someone around here used a cookie tray instead of sheet metal for the floor board which i think would work very well. The hole under my rear passenger seat required a piece of sheet metal, red sealant and rivets to fix. check your local laws about painting or covering the headlight and tail lights. more often than not it's illegal unless they are removable before dusk and after dawn.

yeah no guff, you can't compare crossovers and real suv's together. wd21 should be ranked over the xterra and the r50 should be in there somewhere too.

i think they are in the realm of 4500lbs. have you done a basic inspection and tune up? who knows when the last time the previous owner did any maintenence to it.

might want to check your EGR valve and make sure it's working ok that is if you have an EGR valve. not sure about the VG30i engines

did you check the banjo bolts for tightness? i had a loose one and it puked fluid all over the caliper and wheel because it wasn't completely tight

looks like you gotta win T.O.T.M. first

yeah does it still make noise when you lock out your hubs? Or are your hubs already locked and the t-case in 2wd?

cool! what's with 88pathoffroad's retina-blaster picture in the top left corner? I click it and it takes you back to the index

looks like a wheel bearing failure to me. or maybe someone forgot to screw the lock washer into the lock nut. judging by the wear on the tires, it looks like it had been that way for a while

mmm not so much thick mud, but if you venture into water i would definitely not want a cone filter on there. I have heard if you hit puddles hard enough it is possible to stall the motor. The stock resonator setup does an alright job of keeping water out of the intake, but if you are going to do some fording and creek crossings past the hubs, the snorkel gives you peace of mind. The safari snorkels that fit our truck can be purchased through Rugged Rocks Off Road and 4x4parts.com. I learned the lesson the hard way so i saved up some money and bought one for myself. I have seen a guy with an xterra combine a Volant brand ram air box type thing with a snorkel so he gets the best of both worlds. There is also a few guys that have made their own snorkels and they turned out pretty nice. do a little searching around the forum and you will find their threads. oh yeah, welcome to the board

yeah, i haven't come across many autoparts chains that charge more than $40 per corner for new ones nice chevelle btw

Yes i agree, it depends on the tire compound, contact patch, road surface and temp. And will add if you have a larger tire contact patch than stock (i.e. bigger tires), a larger contact patch between the pad and rotor surface (eveything else about the brakes unchanged) will help stop that tire more efficiently over stock equipment.

Yes I know that engine braking slows the vehicle on it's own and i can also understand the necessity for engine braking on slippery surfaces like snow. What i can't understand is how engine braking can make your vehicle stop faster. Threshold braking is the absolute fastest method of a controlled stop which isn't always easy to do on slippery surfaces. You do not have to have the vehicle in gear to perform threshold braking so how would it decrease your stopping distance via increased braking power accredited to the engine? I am interested to see a road test result nonetheless. It would be really great to see the difference between dry pavement and snow if possible! It might give better stopping distance on snow, but it shouldn't be significantly different on dry pavement even if you have rear abs on your truck. As for avoiding accidents, it's always better to have the vehicle in neutral if you know you don't have room to stop the car in time. That way you can lock up the front tires, steer them in the direction you want to go and slowly release the pedal to make the vehicle track in the direction the wheels are pointing. Of course you could to this with the vehicle in D, but the effect slightly diminishes if you are in 4wd. You definitely don't want to be stuck in 4wd and 2 or 1 gear to perform this maneuver as the wheels will not be turning at the same speed the vehicle is moving after you release the brake. If you try doing that in 2wd and 2 or 1 gear on dry pavement, you are liable to spin the vehicle out and fail entirely. You're young and a new driver so I don't expect you to know about that yet, but the best advice I can give you is the same as Precise1:

i am also interested, but i would like to know a price. Will these links provide even more articulation over the stock links of the same length?

Well if you did install these links on your DD and they did fail causing an accident, i would be surprised if your insurance company covered the damages when they find out these parts are not DOT approved. I understand Steven's choice to market them as off-highway use only.

that's nice fueler, would you care to explain to everyone why? Because I don't notice a difference in braking performance with my own truck when the auto tranny is in D or 2

Here is where i got that information from: StopTech but to get back on topic, I still don't think downshifting will help stop a vehicle any faster than your brakes can on thier own. If anything, the engine braking probably makes your brakes work harder because now they are trying to stop the engine and the vehicle's momentum

sound pretty cool, i wish they were legal for a DD would you make them a little longer than the stock version too?

brake pads and rotors are cheaper to replace than clutches and transmissions. The only time i ever use 2nd or first gear engine braking is when i am trying to control my speed descending a steep slippery hill. I never 'downshift' my transmission during everyday driving, regardless of how hard i need to brake. If you can't lock up your front tires under heavy braking, you need to inspect your braking system (unless you have giant tires) for wear/fluid levels etc. And rotors do not 'warp'. They get uneven pad deposits which causes them to give a 'pulse' feedback when applying the brakes. You can avoid deposits by 'setting' new brake pads through a series of controlled stops (google it) and never let the vehicle sit still with the pedal depressed after making some hard stops. The rotors will be very hot and the pads will leave deposits on the surface of the rotor. It is always best to let the vehicle roll a couple feet after making a hard stop so the pads don't leave an impression in one place on the hot rotors.

the 2-door looks kinda like an el camino. good p.s. skills gg!

if it does fold down, i agree with grimgreg. People will use them to tow their car behind a motorhome.

i have been using 87 in mine and don't notice a problems. If i am going on a long road trip (more than a tank) i will sometimes put in a tank of high test. I don't notice much of a difference in performance, but i do get a bit better mileage