FirstGenFreak

They are definitely becoming a rarer sight over here, although rust really isn't a killer over here, they just aren't desirable in the same way a lot of older cars aren't. Car culture (consumer culture?) isn't what it used to be either, it's easier to buy something new than it is to fix or maintain something older. Parts are definitely drying up fast (at least body and trim parts) I have just bought a Dual Cab D22 as a daily driver as we have a 3 month old boy, and want room/access to rear seats and the wife wants me to get rid of the pathy. I am trying to put it onto historic registration which will make it almost free to own. Wish me luck!

Do you all salt your roads over there in the US? I have never seen a WD21 with rust there in 20 years of messing with them.

They are both good tyres in a similar price range. Personally I think you are splitting hairs, buy whichever is available on sale.

I've just got back into looking at this KA conversion. I have tried an early Z24 distributor and oil pump shaft and it fits! The Z24 oil pan also fits! In theory alI would need to run this NA would be a custom intake manifold. It looks like my prayers have been answered: KA24DE Billet intake flange (xcessivemanufacturing.com) These guys make the flanges, DCOE carb flanges and the intake runners. I am pricing it all up and also need to do some measurements to ensure it will clear the (RH Drive) Brake booster. The other option is to spec up either an NA TBI combo, or a mild turbo and aftermarket ECU combo, but I really like the idea of keeping it analogue. See how we go! FGF

Even a heatgun may get you over the line.

I can't speak to your car specifically but in almost every instance personally, a rebuilt OEM exchange unit has lasted far longer than an aftermarket unit.

Good outcome. Glad it is going to be saved!

That would be the fuel gauge, on/in your cluster

Remove fuel pump assy from the tank and check your sender operation using a multimeter whicle manually lifting the float- the ohm readings will be in a FSM. Check continuity from fuel pump connector to connector in cluster - this will verify the wiring is good. Check for dry solder in the cluster - an indication of this is if you can thump the top of the dash, and the gauges work momentarily. All this fails, you need a new gauge.

What Dan said, Run a multi to the positive terminal on your alternator and see what its doing.

Try disconnecting the wire to the air conditioning compressor, sounds like the compressor is bad- possibly sticky when engaged.

Any coolant smells? Check your heater core, check for rust in the bulkhead up behind the bonnet hinges too. Failing that have your windshield resealed, I had mine done about 12 months ago.

Plenty of rust-free WD21s going begging over here in Australia. They are almost exclusively rust free and no-one wants them sadly.

LN106 Hilux or RA Rodeo fit with some slight modification. You need to make your own mounts though. I have an LN106 one here I am slowly getting around to fitting

My first instinct was to buy a complete car but the KA powered D22 is actually quite a rare thing over here, they were quickly eclipsed by the diesel engines. I have found an intake, looking at the runners I am not sure how good it would work if I was to adapt my existing Weber DGV to the old throttle body position. Dual side drafts would be nice but that will kill economy. I'm all sorted with the distributor. The other option is to go to an aftermarket EFI ECU management system like a MegaSquirt, which some of the Ratsun guys are running.

So the old slug has been going wonderfully, except for a failed fuel pump (changed on the side of the road and was still in time for work!) The Z 24 is getting tired, it has over 500,000km on it. Many years ago I was contemplating the Twin Cam EFI KA24 engine swap. Well, I came across a low KM engine this weekend gone. I am not sure whether to adapt late model (D22) Factory manifolds and EFI or whether I am gong to try and run a carburettor for simplicity and ease of maintenance. Either way it will be a huge improvement!

Check your grounding is good to the pump too, and make sure your fuel tank is clean and the sock at the bottom isn't blocked.

If you've ever had your headliner out and had a look inside the roof, you wouldn't put much on there! There is no reinforcement except 2 thin pressed steel braces that bolt in. If you make your own rack, keep the mounting points as far out as you can, closer to the fold above the rear windows.

Checked ignition timing?

Make sure your jets are ordered form the same place you buy you carb- genuine Italian Webers and the Spanish, or the Chinese FAJS webers all use different jetting sizes, can be hard to match up.

Checking the oil about a week ago I noticed all of these cracks in the engine fan: Probably not too far off letting go! Found a new OEM blade, not an easy part to find these days, although I am sure there are other 80s nissans that could donate a 2nd hand one. Another job ticked off the list. Next is to build a battery tray and get the 2nd battery back in (another thing the PO removed) and fit my fridge/freezer in the back. Going out to chase the yella tomorrow, looking forward to it. Stay safe all.

Clutch Slave issues all sorted and I'm really loving having the car back. Went exploring (we have a book of 250 Victorian Waterfalls, we are trying to see them all) and done a bit of metal detecting last weekend. Car ran great and a lovely time was had! Stay Safe FGF

It was very common for marques to do badge swaps here in Australia through the late 80s - Nissan swapped that with Ford Australia for the ford ute: How a Ford Falcon ute became a Nissan The Ute | CarAdvice

They're not hard, you'll need a G clamp or some large multigrips to push the pistons back in the calipers. Definitely repack your bearings and do your hub seals while you're in there. A good mechanic with a shop and hoist could do the whole shebang in a couple of hours. Download a FSM and find a mate that will give you the use of their driveway for an afternoon. Also, if your mechanic finds this task "very difficult", I'd be looking for another mechanic that knows what on earth they are doing.

Haha, yeah or you need to remove the spare to unhitch the trailer.....