FirstGenFreak

Awesome! PS, share some details of your Road-Runner! I have an Aussie '70 VG Valiant Hardtop (same body as a 69 dart) and a 71 Aussie Valiant Charger.

I normally keep my opinions to myself but I agree with you wholeheartedly. I am more scared of the government intervention in our lives and the media-government fear campaign than I am of the virus. I do believe the virus is real but it's threat is massively over portrayed, and you have to ask why? EDIT: PS. Sorry for the thread hijack Teesetz

Solid Axle Swap Some inspiration here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/forum/60-solid-axle-swaps-hardcore-custom-fab/ You can buy aftermarket upper control arms from 4x4parts.com or Rough country (or Calmini.) 4x4parts: sell the superlift which I have used and can vouch for. Others will have their favourites. https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981693-super-lift-front-suspension-lift.html Never seen aftermarket lowers other than the waaaay old trailmaster.

Cut a good section out of a wreck or you could try SMS auto fabrics. They have a vast range.

Cheers Teesetz, Appreciate it. Right now we are on a 6 week stage 4 lockdown where we are only allowed to leave our house to go to work (must have a permit to go to work), Exercise (max 1 hr per day and within 5km from home), to go shopping. We also have an 8pm to 5am curfew. Police checkpoints and military are everywhere. I haven't seen my family in 3 months and they only live 20mins from me. We have an old miners cottage we are renovating which is about 300km from us, we were close to moving in... and we aren't even allowed to go there to work on it. The whole thing is absolutely soul-destroying. Stay safe

For the work (labour cost or your own time) involved you could probably do a SAS.

So we are on a full 6 week lockdown, no leaving our houses for anything but work or shopping, limited to 1 hour exercise, curfew from 8pm to 5am. We also need a permit to go to work, I have been pulled over a few times for spot-checks. How is everyone else faring? Stay safe and Sane!

So Jealous. My WD is 300km away from me at my other house and I can't go there due to lockdowns in Melbourne.

Pretty sure the cruise needs to cancel on brake or clutch application (both), at least here in Oz to be legal, but I think the CC unit picks up the signal from the brake lights. If you have cruise, you may find it isn't working with the brake lights stuck on, this is why.

See pic from FSM:

Your brake light switch is up under the dash and activated by the pedal. Check the little rubber /plastic plug on the pedal that it hits against hasn't deteriorated and fallen out

Congrats on the purchase, they are all minor problems so you've done well That is one chunky side step haha Looks real clean!

Sounds like you've made the call, you sound excited about it and you have bugger all money in it. I weighed it up like this: I paid 400 for the car, will spend about $2500 AUD on the reco engine +upgrades (weber carb, headers, exhaust) and general roadworthy stuff. Otherwise the car is in excellent condition. Total investment about 3k. Here in Aus you simply cannot buy a roadworthy 4wd for that money, so that justifies it - financially at least. As long as your frame is good sounds like you have a plan! Hopefully all of the coatings on your rails and lower body are to protect it, not to hide problems. Good luck with it!

I always wanted to do a KA24DET swap, rare engine here in Aust though.

As long as it doesn't over heat, or ping under load, you're good.

Sure is possible, Pull it out, move it one tooth and see how you go through the range of adjustment.

I'm going to replace the screen on mine myself and bought the top seal here: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/86-97-NISSAN-NAVARA-D21-HARDBODY-FRONT-TOP-WINDSHIELD-WEATHERSTRIP-RUBBER-SEAL/110949004881 You can sometimes get the top seal out without tearing it see how you go. I'm hoping the dam will stay in place when I remove the old window (using a length of wire to break the sealant). It's main purpose is to stop the sealant 'squeeze out' from appearing inside the car, and would probably help any leaks to wick down to the bottom of the windscreen rather than onto your dash.

You can get them to take a bit more off the deck or the head to bump up your compression ratio, you'll need your engine builder to cc your cylinder head and work out correct piston to valve clearance and calculate compression ratio. 9-9.5:1 would wake it up a bit as well. You could put a performance or torque cam in as well. Mine has a towing/torque cam which helps get it off the line, which I will re-use. Speak to your engine builder about your goals/intended use for the car and if he is worth his salt he'll will give you some direction and advice.

That is a pretty standard price, especially if it is from a reputable engine builder. I'm building mine myself, but I can't do anything on it at the moment because I am in lockdown in Melbourne and the car is on my other property in Central vic. I'll be spending about 1000-1500 but I am building mine myself. I found a reconditioned head on Gumtree for $200 which saves a lot of machining cost. Probably another 600 in machining (Bore, crank grind, deck, balance) and 500-ish for a rebuild kit from ebay US. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Engine-Rebuild-Kit-Fit-83-87-Nissan-720-D21-Hardbody-2-4L-SOHC-Z24-Z24i/360881090167 I'll be putting a weber 32/36 and a set of headers on, this combination really wakes them up, All in I should be around 2-2.5k

Yup, S is carb

It is certainly worth it in my opinion, but - Sometimes it is hard to draw a line on where to start and where to stop when doing these repairs. It's a 27 yo car that has years of wear and tear. Opening an old engine can be like opening Pandora's box. Especially if you don't know it's history and how it has been driven and maintained. . If you're pulling it apart, you'd be silly not to do the timing belt, freshen up the heads, replace all of your hoses etc when you reassemble it. You may need a new exhaust system depending on how long it's had water accumulating in it (they rust from the inside out) Then if you're going that far, why not throw in some fresh rings and bearings? IF you're doing that, why not a full reconditioned engine? And it snow balls from there. My advice [if you're paying someone to do the work] is do as much as you can afford while it is in bits as the labour is the expensive part. It's kind of like my story I have an 86 4cyl 2 door I bought 12 months ago which overheated driving it home. It started with a new waterpump and radiator, now I am putting in a reconditioned engine. I found that the previous owners had never ran corrosion inhibitor, so the inlet manifold was corroded... New intake. While it it, I am replacing clutch, starter, alternator, carburettor, exhaust, some wiring and even decided to repaint the engine bay. It's turned into an intensive project, which is fine as I only paid a few hundred dollars for the car, and I am doing the work myself.. But I love these cars, they are starting to disappear from our roads and when I am done I know I will have a sweet truck that will serve me well for years, so a great investment for me. I hope you decide to repair it!

https://www.rodshop.com.au/bellhousings/holden-v6/nissan-navara/ap113b-nissan-adaptor-plate.html

Some info here: https://v6conversions.net.au/navara-pathfinder-4wd/

Dozzerwd21 the Ecotec is the Aussie version of the vortec, 3.8L EFI based on Buick V6. Projectcar I gave the conversion a lot of thought multiple times. Guys that have done it keep blowing the manual gearbox, and the pathy boxes are getting harder to find. Could use a commo gearbox and fit a divorced transfer, like off a 720, but that is far more work and expense, Also, with the kits I have seen you need to use the very early engine - VN/VP engine, not the Ecotec which was VR/VS. The kits are not stocked by most suppliers (Marks 4wd adaptors, Castlemaine Rod Shop, V6 conversions.com and Dellow, and most kits were to suit the Commodore 4 speed auto. Kits came out at about 3k, plus you need a donor car and to engineer the thing, need to pay to have the auto modified to accept the nissan transfer case, new front driveshaft modded. I worked out $AUD 5k if I did all the work myself. In saying that there was one already converted on Gumtree about a month ago for $1000.

The key is making sure you get the cups positioned correctly before you weld. Obviously use low amps if stick welding.