FirstGenFreak

There are two different parts, different taper and diameter on tie rods. You have a mismatch, so you either need to change your tie rods or your CL.

Did you try the first hit on any search engine? https://www.pathmakerproductions.com/shop/npora-club-classic-decal/

Never seen one and I get your reservations. I will say 555 are excellent parts as a general rule. Personally I wouldn't use them in a 4x4 application, or I'd have them welded.

That's a shame. We don't have frame rust issues here in Aus.

Welcome aboard! Not sure, but it does sound like you are scrapping the wrong one ?

Everyone is entitled to their opinion and has their own life experience and reasoning for it. Right now I am thrilled to have a job, my health and my family. It's certainly not a time to take those things for granted. I'm really sorry to hear you have family members affected, sincere condolences. Stay safe out there!

Lift stuff is available, but limited to about 2" suspension - do a search here - there is a wealth of knowledge and experience. For your 3-5" I'd be doing a 2" suspension with superlift upper arms, JGC rear springs combined with a 2" body lift. I've ran that combo before and it works quite well and holds good wheel alignment if you don't beat it hard offroad. You can get more lift out of the front end by re-indexing your torsion bars. It definitely looks sagged in your pics.

Definitely a terrible design, Although my last WD I had for 11 years without any hassles. I ran 0 offset rims with 31x10.5R15s, anything bigger is too much for the front end and you're asking for failure.

Thanks, it's draconian but it is definitely reducing the number of cases. Not sure how much longer it will be sustainable for, at some point we just need to learn to live with it and get on with our lives and re-ignite the economy. Sounds like a similar head to the KA24. We never got the injected Z24s here. We still call them a 280z here, my Ex GF's old lady had one! They are all expensive here, I've just finished putting together a warmed over Chrysler 318, cost me a bomb. The Z will be a bit cheaper by comparison.

Now I know I DID title this a "Slow" build, but I did envisage I'd be damn close to driving this truck around by now! But, due to Covid lockdowns I haven't been able to leave Melbourne to go and work on the car (or our house we are renovating). We've just had a new 3 car garage built and I am gagging to get up there and see it in person. It's heart-breaking for us but everyone here is missing out on something they wish they could do. So I'm Itching to go and get some work done on the WD. The next step is to pull the motor and either rebuild it, or freshen up my spare engine. Spare engine is at my folks about 30km away, I'm not allowed to go there either, so we play the waiting game. I did manage to find a reco cylinder head in a local classified here so that is a start to the engine build. Hopefully I have some more updates soon, in the meantime I will be within 5km of my home and not leave the house unless it is to go to my permitted job or to buy groceries, or my allocated 1 hour per day excersise, also noting our 8pm to 5 am curfew... Good times Stay safe out there y'all FGF

Congrats, hopefully it's a low maintenance, highly rewarding gig!

I actually just saw a Terrano for sale locally that had the brilliant white dash, was a very original car so perhaps they were fitted to the JDM cars (at least in the earlier years)?

At the other end of the spectrum, it's possible he swapped out the rest of the dash for a USDM one and swapped his original KMH speedo back in! haha Although my Aussie '87 has the orange characters and the single odo. Most likely a later speedo changed in.

Cheers man, 'm in Victoria - so the cost of transport probably be more than you're asking for the car haha Good luck with the sale.

Yup, I've always found it better to store a whole parts car outside than clog up the garage with stuff you don't need straight away haha

Check your end play - You can buy different sized snap rings based on your axle end play, so you may need an alternate size snap ring

Man that is looking real nice, no messin' around there!

Nope, you need to index or wind your bars to lift the car. The main purpose of the arms is to correct the ball joint angles. There are dozens of threads on here going over all of that, and the 2wd steering link conversion (another weak point if you wheel it hard). You'll probably want an idler arm brace too.

Awesome! PS, share some details of your Road-Runner! I have an Aussie '70 VG Valiant Hardtop (same body as a 69 dart) and a 71 Aussie Valiant Charger.

I normally keep my opinions to myself but I agree with you wholeheartedly. I am more scared of the government intervention in our lives and the media-government fear campaign than I am of the virus. I do believe the virus is real but it's threat is massively over portrayed, and you have to ask why? EDIT: PS. Sorry for the thread hijack Teesetz

Solid Axle Swap Some inspiration here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/forum/60-solid-axle-swaps-hardcore-custom-fab/ You can buy aftermarket upper control arms from 4x4parts.com or Rough country (or Calmini.) 4x4parts: sell the superlift which I have used and can vouch for. Others will have their favourites. https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981693-super-lift-front-suspension-lift.html Never seen aftermarket lowers other than the waaaay old trailmaster.

Cheers Teesetz, Appreciate it. Right now we are on a 6 week stage 4 lockdown where we are only allowed to leave our house to go to work (must have a permit to go to work), Exercise (max 1 hr per day and within 5km from home), to go shopping. We also have an 8pm to 5am curfew. Police checkpoints and military are everywhere. I haven't seen my family in 3 months and they only live 20mins from me. We have an old miners cottage we are renovating which is about 300km from us, we were close to moving in... and we aren't even allowed to go there to work on it. The whole thing is absolutely soul-destroying. Stay safe

For the work (labour cost or your own time) involved you could probably do a SAS.

So Jealous. My WD is 300km away from me at my other house and I can't go there due to lockdowns in Melbourne.

Pretty sure the cruise needs to cancel on brake or clutch application (both), at least here in Oz to be legal, but I think the CC unit picks up the signal from the brake lights. If you have cruise, you may find it isn't working with the brake lights stuck on, this is why.