Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by JackFletcher

  1. My set up is AC in the front and LR 9449 in the back. AC springs shipped from Florida and the shipping wasnt that bad from what I remember. The land rover springs however are very expensive to ship due to the fact they ship from the UK. I believe the LR springs ran about $30 for 2 and $75 for shipping. I remember the AC springs were considerably higher priced for the part but the shipping was only $20 dollars to Georgia.
  2. I have a 04 Platinum with the electric t case. I am on 33s with 2 in lift springs and the lr 9449s. I obviously would prefer a manual transfer case because of the "cool" aspect but other than that i have had no problems what so ever. When i put on the manual hubs it took away the convenience of having the AUTO mode. The idea of having to get out of the car and lock the hubs during a bad storm so i can drive with AWD is unnecessary to me due to just laziness. So i wouldnt say that AUTO mode is a luxury unless you keep the factory hubs. I do want to make a note that after i did put on the manual hubs, i get a 4WD warning light when i take exteneded hour or longer trips on the highway at 65mph+. I dont worry about this because i assume it is just the computer getting confused.
  3. You need both one should be larger and the other should be a smaller. You need to replace the seal and the small O ring that is on the inside of the screw you will be removing.
  4. If the connection came undone it might have messed with the vehicle immobilizer system. Sometimes the computers get confused and think the car is still "locked". I would try disconnecting the battery for like 15 mins and then putting the leads back on. I think Nissans will crank with the security triggered but im not sure. Im not familiar with your year pathy but I would read up on the security info in the manual and see if your security light can tell you anything. If its not the security you could also try putting your foot on the gas a little when starting it. I put a new battery in my friends acura and had to do that because the computer needed to relearn the idle.
  5. Yea i would definitely add the stop slip. Its only $11 and I have heard miracle stories lol. I don't know the pricing as far as your transmission goes but there might be a lot of info available because of the strawberry milkshake ordeal. Just pour it down the dipstick hole with the engine running. You gotta sit there and squeeze for a few mins because of how thick it is.
  6. I am assuming you already have a after market trans cooler because its unlikely you could have made it 160k miles without one. But just to be sure you are aware it is a common issue for your model year pathy to leak coolant into the transmission from a faulty factory cooler. First thing I would do is check underneath the radiator cap and make sure it doesnt look like a "strawberry Milkshake." The odds are you already have had this addressed though because again it is likely your transmission would have already failed if you hadnt. If the coolant looks fine then I would just assume its starting to go out. 165k miles is a lot for a jatco transmission from that year lol. If I were you I would pour in some Lucas Stop slip. I actually put some of that in just as a preventative measure last weekend and I am impressed with it so far. Good luck
  7. agreed use a multimeter or take it to a auto parts store sounds like a alternator starting to go
  8. In 4LO there is a significant difference at idle for me. She will basically go imma say up to 6mph without even touching the gas. When i do give it some throttle I feel what you mean. She will rev up with no power response for a few seconds until you get around 1700rpm . I wish it wasnt a pain to convert to a cable throttle.
  9. It has been universally agreed here on the forum that if you are going the spacers route, a reputable company to get them from is SFcreations. To answer your question, No you wont need a spring compressor to do the rear but you will have to unbolt one side of the shocks so you can lower the axle enough to unseat the coil. It would be a good idea to get some longer shocks but it will be fine with the stock ones. On another note, it is also universally agreed on the forum that the coil spring lifts are much better than spacers for off road use because spacers can screw up your cvs. I have the 2in AC lift in the front which was $280 and the LR 9449 spings in the back which were $70 if you include shipping. I am happy with them both and they are a better option for you in the long run.
  10. I have had no topping out issues with the AC lift. Had it for about 3-4 months now. I have noticed it is still settling in. I tucked 33s and it seems each week I trim, the suspension will settle again and I need to trim more. With that being said you wont have the same issues with 32's. I am very pleased with the NRC 9449 coils in the rear as is everyone that tried them.
  11. Well first off im assuming you know but the 3.5 is a VQ engine which means most people would say they sound awful. Personally I dont think they sound that terrible like in this video it sounds pretty good imo I havent heard of anyone taking their cats off on the R50 but I bet there is 1 or 2 people that could tell you more. I am currently running a resonator delete and a magnaflow. Sounds really good when the engines cold but other than that it sounds relativity stock.
  12. This is so cool, I never would of thought it would come together and look this good! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Y’all think it would be a bad move to put the pro comps on my daily? Or will I be good with the hub rings? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Damm aight thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I went in to 4WP today cause I couldn’t find those steel wheels you bought online. They said that they were discontinued a few weeks back. Does anyone know where I could get my hands on those 15 by 8 Steelies? I am gonna be pissed if I have to spend big money on aluminum wheels. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. I can't speak to your 3.3 but I do know most high mileage oil is basically the same as the normal oil, but with some seal additives and maybe more friction reducers. With that being said there is nothing wrong with moving up to the highmileage especially considering you got 200k.
  17. Update: I found some info in a Maxima Forum. It sounds like the code is due to the A/T control unit not getting enough voltage. I replaced my battery yesterday just cause I needed a new one, we’ll see if that does anything but I doubt it. On another note, I saw this plug going into my transmission and it is near where my rear main seal is about to go out. I was hoping you guys could tell me what that plug is for and maybe if it could have something to do with the control unit. Thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Had the 01 Initial Start A/T code today when I was figuring out my new OBD scanner. Anyone know what this means? There is pretty vague information on google but it sounds like a electrical issue. Any suggestions?

Welcome to NPORA Forums


Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.



  • Create New...