Alkorahil

Nissan Interior Color Codes WD21 B = Blue R = Red K = Gray (before and after 93) A = Maroon

If you have a Carquest Auto parts store near you, go in and ask the oldest guy there (preferably over 60) for the giant catalouge with the electrical connectors in it. It is about 5 inches thick.

Are they Autolite plugs? I did a tune up on a 94 pathy a few months ago that had plugs that looked just like those....enough gap to drive a semi though! and the distributor cap had no noticable points left inside...i guess it was arcing enough to run. I was surpirsed too!

Hmmm....looks like I am a little late on this one...... its the distributor...my hardbody started to do this about 2 years ago and befuddled me for about 2 weeks, then I replaced the distributor and problem solved.

Without the hood pin, it will not arm.

That is correct, the same was for the roof rack and fog lights, they were popular add ons that most dealers put on when the vehicles were shipped to the dealers to make more $$ but they did not come from the factory this way. If you ever look in the Nissan parts catalogue (FAST) or the Factory Service Manual (FSM) they are not even listed.... Because even if the system is tripped anyone with the key can disarm it and then drive it off.

Using the key to lock/unlock the doors should both arm and disarm the system.

The vehicle security systems (VSS) in these vehicles were dealer installed options. It does have a starter kill but it is mostly useless as putting the keys in the ingnition in most cases disables it. IIRC If you want to see the starter kill work, try arming the system without getting out of the vehicle, then try to start it, it will go off and not start until you disarm it with the remote. I also belive it will lock the starter if you try to start it while it is in the 30 second arming status, or open the door from the inside while in the arming status. It will also not start if you bust the lock and try to hotwire the ignition switch. But as I said, it is not super effective as far as starter kills go. I actually bought the last one available from the main Nissan warehouse for myself about 2 years ago, just to have:

Anyone use one of these? http://fumotousa.com/

jiggle the wire up by the connector to the MAF sensor. That is the best way to check for the problem. If jiggling it clears up the problem, you have your answer.

sounds like a mass air flow wire problem....it will run fine under load and want to sputter and die at idle. Check the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator too, its a tthe back of the engine near the firewall.

Yes you have to reuse the old shells. And it will be 'fun' getting them off.

Yes, the idler arm! Thats what I meant. Makes it SO much easier. Too many car parts on the brain.......

Yes those websites will let you order them (so will ours), they will let you order any good Nissan part number going back to the 1960's, but then they will cancel your order because it is discontinued.

This is a genuine nissan part that was offered on the hardbody trucks in the US starting manufacturing date 07/93 through the end of the production run in 1997. MSRP from Nissan is $114.95. But as pointed out they are discontined. If I ever come across any new in box I will buy them.... PART NUMBER: 68430-75P00 HOLDER ASSY-CUP

The ring around the rear tweeters is both a retaining and trim ring. Grab it and rotate it 45 degrees (or so) and pull, it will come out along with the tweeter.

I use a 3 inch attached to a 4 inch extension attached to my rachet.... length fits perfectly everytime! No issues or agony.

I would recommend this: http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Service/QuikSteel%20Epoxy%20Putty.htm Most auto parts stores have it (at least around here) I have used it before on a plastic tank and it held for 3 years till I sold the car. So it lasted at least that long. Its great stuff you can use on all sorts of things.......... mouldable, etc...like silly putty but heavier. You knead/wad it up to activate it and it hardens....very very hard and thick.

If you are doing the tension rods more often than not people also need the sleaves, there is one on each side. they are often either rusted to bits or you have to destroy them to get them off. They are cheap at your local dealer. might need the 4 washers for the control rods two for the same reason. both are hard to see any damage until you remove them.

hmmmm remember, if you ever pull/replace your fuel pump, get a new O-ring, dont re-use the old one. It could also be your evap cannister not allowing pressure to equilize. These cannisters are old and are an old design now. On the evap cannister there are 3 hoses, the one closest to the firewall goes to the fuel tank.(its labelled too) This hose could be clogged. This hose goes to the fuel sender unit. remove it carefully to avoid breaking the sender and inspect on that end as well. worth a look

Not saying it isnt...I would have someone sit int eh back and see if they feel it coming from under them on each side and in the cargo area. withe he 60-90 kmph thing I would look to the following as well, a combination of: rear wheels out of balace/wheel minor bent and/or rear sway bar bushings

Just reading thorugh the description.... "OEM Style" meaning its NOTOEM. "OEM factory standard universal" These words are all mutually exclusive of each other. It can not be OEM AND Universal at the same time! Nor standard! As to carbon fiber, I guess it means the pad stiffener strips that run length-wise between the heater elements? But why use carbon fiber? It sounds cool?

When it comes to seats, Im with yah!

driving habits weather temperatures (very low and very high). too much tension from tensioner. moisture. (ambiant air and muddin) snow salt. made by man.

Part Number B5554-5L325 Clockspring, pathfinder 1998 - 2000 I can do that part at $215.99...... note there are many variations too by model and so forth, need VIN for this sort of part....