mjotrainbrain

My QX4 with the 3.5 always read a bit low too, in fact if it went up at all, even up to the middle, it would dump coolant out the radiator cap (which basically meant if it was over 70 degrees I couldn't use AC because the extra load was just too much...ah, the memories of burning the ever living %&^! out of my arm setting it on the windowsill to keep myself cool with all the windows open when it was 95 degrees out ) (And yes, I know I should have probably looked into this, but it was never a problem unless it was hot out and the AC was on. The temp gauge didn't even think of budging when offroading no matter how hot it was or how strenuous the trails were, never even budged in traffic.)

Absolutely massive! What's the planned tire size?

In 4Lo the power should be split evenly between the front and rear axles, although I supposed it's possible if you have the AUTO mode transfer case the clutch packs inside could be toast. Are you sure the rear wheel on the other side from where she was standing wasn't spinning? Because the rear diff isn't locked and that's exactly what should happen when struggling; one wheel up front and one wheel out back turning.

Interesting that they used plastic in the first place when they know so many of their customers rely on their products in extremely remote and dangerous areas. Good that it's been addressed in newer versions! What do you mean by them not including the required bearings? Did they include wrong ones or not include them at all? Was this a packaging mistake or something that they corrected, or did you have to source parts yourself?

I don't know that this is necessarily related, however you say you have a new dizzy; is it an original Nissan part or aftermarket? I've heard of lots of people having aftermarket dizzy's go bad after a rather short time. Recently micahfelker's rig was down for quite a while due to a Dizzy which he had replaced not long before and therefore wasn't particularly suspicious of it.

Looks good! Now you just need to upgrade whatever those lights on the front are to LED so you don't have yellow puddles on the ground'!

I had a similar issue, an exhaust shop fixed it for $50. However if it's that rusty the rest of the exhaust is likely to come apart soon too, I'd suggest beginning to shop for a full replacement, but inspect the rest of the truck for rust before deciding to dump money into it.

Ooh, genuine ARB cable ties! Fancy stuff. Hopefully the ARB doesn't give you any issues/make you wish you had the TJM!

I haven't, no idea how it would feel to drive. I just can't imagine any good coming of it...a standard transmission is a proven design, I don't see why you would want a CVT - but again, I haven't looked into it any; maybe there's an upside?

I've heard the same, especially issues with the CVT. I haven't looked into it much though since it's not at all a style of vehicle that I'd be interested in purchasing.

I've had both solve a front end clunk. For the bushings it'll probably be visually pretty obvious that they're shot, and in either case you should be able to grab it and shake to determine if the parts are worn; every time I've heard my parts making noise there has been noticable play.

PB Blaster is extremely useful. If you plan to do more work on your vehicle in the future, especially stuff like suspension, it may be worth it to invest in an impact. An air impact will require a pretty decent compressor, but an electric will have some higher cost due to the battery (although you may be able to get one that uses batteries matching tools you already have). The main issue with an impact is being tempted to force a bolt out without using any penetrating oil (like PB Blaster) and then snapping bolts off, leaving you with an even bigger problem... Anyways, hope that helps.

Could be the top mounting hardware of the strut; either assembled incorrectly or damaged.

Looks great! And you're totally right about those CV axles, they're not bad once you get the hang of it.

Looks really good! Glad to hear you're happy with the results.

That tire carrier looks pretty slick, I like it! I haven't seen a custom rear bumper that I like better than stock, so your solution is nice. I think I've seen a similar solution done once before and I hope more people do it.

I didn't know the Nissan's didn't have it honestly, now if I get another R50 it's gonna have to be a QX4 for that one feature haha

My 2002 QX4 had auto up/down on the passenger front window as well. May be able to jack some components from a junkyard QX4.

I cannot answer specifically about those hubs, but it looks like you're new here (welcome!), so to generally address the manual hub topic in case you weren't aware: Manual hubs are completely OK to swap onto any R50 Pathfinder or QX4, even those with the electronic AUTO-mode transfer case. Just make sure if you're in any mode other than 2wd those hubs are locked up! Personally I had Warn hubs on my rig; those and Mile Marker seem to be the most popular. I haven't heard of anybody using Geo Tracker hubs. If you've got an opportunity to get them really cheap I suppose you could get them cheap, but if you were going to spend any notable amount of money on em I'd just go aftermarket personally, just because you know they'll fit. Oh, and boy will they every save wear on those CV axles!!!

I don't remember which side of it, but it's near the slip joint.

Only the front driveshaft has a zirk stock. @Charlie_Brown has a WD21 which probably has more, but for you @AlabamaDan unless you have Moog BJ's or something you only have to worry about that front driveshaft. It probably hasn't been done in a long time so it'll take a lot of grease I suspect.

Not if you were going to wire it with a relay. If the slight power in the circuit is enough to trip the relay you'll be rockin full brightness.

I think he's saying that it means the circuit isn't completely off when it's supposed to be off, so you may find yourself driving down the road with lights on underneath your vehicle, which is illegal in many places.

I don't see a PhotoBucket stamp on my end, interesting. I assume it's a giant watermark that spans the whole picture? I think some rock sliders would look way cooler than steps.

Worst case scenario there's fuses to make sure you don't wreck stuff, good luck.