johann_peralta

As for the alarm going off randomly, perhaps one of the door sensors is causing this. It happened to two of mine when the rubber boot wore thin. I put a 3m rubber pad on the door where the button pressed on ( one per door) and this solved my alarm issue. Also, I made a diff drop a few years ago for my pathfinder. Its a 3 or 4" drop. Completely bolt in and didnt have to alter the original stuff. Interested in pictures?

Thanks for the tip! I'll have to do some research on that.

Today I finally ordered the Heim kit and got the coil "buckets" test fitted up. I plan on gusseting them and tying them into each other.

I finished up the 4 link brackets today. They are bolted in and then the reinforcements are welded in with a few passes. Ive never done anything like this before so i'm more than willing to take in come ideas from y'all. Thanks!

Follow it up a little more and you can find two bolts. Id recommend finding a back section with no rust at a JY, and replacing it.

So here is the trackbar bracket and crossmember. Its two sheets welded onto a frame reinforcement. I will show later on how ill finish the crossmember. debating on welding a top and bottom onto it, or just put bars in between. not sure yet... It sits higher than the oil pan and radiator/condenser, so i'm not too worried about it catching on anything. I then decided that anything that was welded to the frame was also gonna have a bolt or two running through it as a back up. Just incase. So the engine mounts, and all the frame reinforcements got a bolt or two through the frame. Here's how I ran a bolt through the new crossmember as another reinforcement. The bolt on the left is off center because i wanted it to go through the frame reinforcement also. If I would've planned this better, I would have extended the reinforcement to the left further and then centered the bolt. It'll do though. I did the same on the other side and in the back. These angle bar were 3/8" thick and took 2 cut off wheels just to make each piece... super annoying to cut with an angle grinder! PS, everything is being cut with an angle grinder, so lines won't be perfect.. I cleaned up both sides of the frame on the outside, and drilled the reinforcements to fit the existing holes (I ended up removing the abs bracket and cleaning further up into that corner but didn't get a picture). Ill weld them in tomorrow most likely and mount the coil buckets to these.

Its from an 00-01 grand cherokee v8, Im gonna regear to match the rear. 4.56 is the closest to 4.63 that i can find.

That axle under the car? Its for the white pathfinder in the pictures above.

So today I did a little more work on the r50. I started off by making the steering link to go from the steering wheel to the Jeep steering box. I sleeved it with some SUPER thick tube, and drilled holes in the tube so I could weld in the holes. Once all welded I Painted it black and installed it. Next I welded up the steering box reinforcement plates I had a custom power steering line made at the "local" hydraulic shop. Runs from the r50 power steering pump to the Jeep steering box. The return line I just used hose clamps for, as that is what the original used on the jeep. I have to make a little retainer bracket to hold the "loop end" of the hose, so its not swinging around or rubbing onto anything. Ill bolt it onto one of the oil pan bolts. I rolled the axle underneath the car for the first time! as it sits, i'm content with how well things are lined up. I make a cardboard template for the trackbar bracket, but forgot to take a picture. More than likely ill get that all welded up and installed tomorrow. https://imgur.com/a/BuJnL26 Things left to do: cut out the trackbar bracket and weld it on, make/buy longer trackbar, weld on 4 link brackets, weld up 4 links, make coil buckets & frame reinforcements in that area, install custom brake lines & purge system. probably missing some stuff here and there, but its been a long week lol ALSO sorry that these pictures have been coming up sideways and upside down.... I haven't any idea how to fix that. Ill try a different website next time to get picture into a URL form. Pictures are too large to use the "drag files here to attach , or choose file" option. Sorry!

Hello, My name is Johann and here is what I've been up to lately (SAS). I've been collecting parts for the swap for close to two years now. Mostly waiting on good deals on parts and tools. Recently I was gifted a motor picker, and that was one of the last tools I needed to start the swap. So about 4 days ago, it began. A few months ago I bought a 97 pathfinder for 300$US. It had shot wheel bearings up front, and as expected, very worn down suspension components up front. The ad had no pictures so I had no idea what i was going to go look at... As soon as I saw that is had a steel bumper, I knew I was buying it. Its a manual, and runs fine, other than suspension issues up front, which made it the perfect candidate for the SAS I've wanted to do for years. So soon after i acquired a hilux snorkel for free and mounted it to the r50 A few days ago I moved the big pathy (my green one) out of the shed, laid down some wood, and backed up the white one to be stripped down. It took about 5 hours, but I got the car way up on jacks (the jacks are welded to the rims and tires are flat) and removed the entire subframe. That subframe is WAY heavier than I thought! So the subframe is what holds the motor up, so to remove the subframe, I put a thick strap around the motor, and a jack under it (to hold it in place). Next I got the motor mounts I made and temporarily installed them to make sure they fit. I then decided that the frame was going to get reinforced anywhere that something was getting added. so I added a piece of steel behind it. These motor mounts were then welded in. I then did the same exact thing on the other side Once they were welded in, the motor was now being held up with no subframe! This was the hardest part so far because there was barely any space under the car with the jack in the way. Now with the jack out from under the car and with more space, I started cutting and removing all the old steering stuff. everything from the firewall up was removed. there are two little brackets holding the original steering bend box (90*, not sure the specific name for it). I cut those out with a reciprocating saw. once all the old was out of the way, I ground the "frame" down to raw metal (where the new jeep steering box would go) when I went to mom up the steering box, it wouldn't fit because the wheel well was blocking the back end from sitting on the rail, so I eyeballed it and cut a slot into the well to allow the box to sit. Once up, I mocked up some steel reinforcement plates to the frame, drilled them & the frame, and temporarily bolted up the box to make sure everything fit. Tomorrow the box will come back out so I can trim the reinforcement plates up to size better. Once they are trimmed up, the box will be mounted, plates tacked in, box removed and the rest of the plate will be welded in. I started tinkering with the shaft connecting the wheel to the steering box and am debating on how I am going to splice them together. Probably will cut to length, weld, sleeve, then weld the sleeve to both ends. Any better ideas? the left one is the jeep one, the right is the stock one. I need to connect the top piece from the left one (goes onto the steering box) with the bottom of the right one (goes into end of steering on r50)

The second gen r50 had one, theres a local around here that I see every few weeks with it. It's a little different though, the tubing for the 2nd gen isn't black or round, It's more of a rounded rectangle tubing, and I've only seen it in grey. Also, if I recall correctly, the 2nd gen carrier doesn't have a rounded end on the driver side, rather it's cut flat (don't quote me but for some reason I think I remember that) I think the 2nd gen doesn't have the same latch lever as the 1st (also don't quote me, but when I opened one up a year or so back I think I remember it being a little different)

Cant really do a body lift, because r50 is a unibody. frame and body are just one big piece. As far a lifts you have some options: sfcreations has 1-2.5" spacers I believe. Ebay hoepkers has 2" spacers. 4x4parts has lift coils and spacers. Theres a few other brands also but those listed are some popular options. There used to be a company making 4" sub frame drops, but no one makes a full kit currently. If you are interested in a SFD, there are some other threads about them in more details.

I was under the impression that the Qx4 flares were bigger and bulkier than the pathfinder flares. Aren't they?

Gonna have to take measurements to a shop of someone willing to make it for you. No one makes them regularly to sell.

If they have a problem aligning it after a 2" lift (assuming its a 2"+-), they either aren't using camber bolts with enough angle adjustment, or are incompetent. That type of simple lift shouldn't create any driveline vibration. Usually it doesn't.

Yes, you can do a 4" sfd + 2" spacers. The cv angle will stay the same as just the 2" lift.

I had 2 at one point. I turned the original 90*, moved the fuse box a tiny bit back, removed the battery clamp, slid the original as far as i could to the passenger side, then fit the second one beside it. Had to extend the ground cable.

https://imgur.com/a/cG4vlZm I know it is a little too late for this, but if you do go with a new trans, this may help. The 4.0 are known for contamination of ATF & coolant within the radiator as you may know. It is common for people to simply bypass the radiator and run the trans directly in and out of the trans cooler. I'd suggest adding another cooler in series, because by bypassing the Rad, you are loosing 'cooling power'. Attached is what I did to my 4.0 frontier. Replaced the Rad, thermostat, trans filter, added another trans cooler (I can get you the part number if you'd like), and flushed 40q of ATF through the trans in efforts to eliminate any coolant (if any managed to get in). I also flushed the radiator's bottom line where the trans used to connect with coolant.

Yes, makes a good support for the missing link.

Id suggest getting more familiar with your car, and the kit parts first. I really don't want to sound rude, but it will help. There are lots of posts on installing them/pics of where they go I'd search "r50 pathfinder SFD install" online. There are 2 engine blocks (I think I labeled my pics). 2 front subframe blocks 2 rear subframe blocks You'll need a longer steering shaft. Use the search bar on this forum and search SFD steering link. Someone gave part numbers for buying them from woodward steering USA. If i remember correctly its a 108-201, 114-201 (joints), and a 5.75" 201 spline shaft with allen locks .5" either end. don't quote me though. Overall I would suggest just reading some more posts about SFDs and the install. The more familiarized you get before diving head first, the better and more aware you'll be of all the other costs, and what goes where. Hope this helped.

Here's a quick write up for doing the rear to front wheel stud swap. I haven't used the car is who knows how long so the rotors have some surface rust and everything is full of gunk lol needs a good cleaning... It's been done before so I don't want to take credit for anything, hawairish helped me out. Your gonna need to remove the wheels Loosen the 6 bolts (14mm), jam a screwdriver into the rotor under the caliper and that'll stop the rotor from spinning. If you have AUTO HUBS: remove the dust cap, remove the C-clip, remove the 6 bolts that hold the rest on, and gently pry the rest off. If you have MANUAL hubs: remove the 6 bolts that hold the face (mine were t15 torx, but may vary by brand), then remove the C-clip, then remove the 6 allen key bolts that hold the back half of the manual hub. Next your gonna want to remove the caliper and put it on something that will hold it up high enough so the lines won't get stretched, two 3/4" bolts. A 5 gallon bucket fits under the car well so maybe use one of those. Next you'll see two phillips screws, remove those Pull the big washer looking lock thing off (magnet will help) Put the screw driver into the big hole on the wheel bearing nut and spin the nut to the left till it's free. Put your thumbs onto the bearing and push the bearing in while pulling the rotor/wheel bearing assembly off. Now remove the previously loosened 14mm bolts. If you didn't previously loosen them you'll have a hard time here lol You can give he edge of the wheel bearing assembly thing a few whacks with a rubber hammer, or just pry the front half off of the rotor Next use either a press or a hammer (with the nuts still on to avoid messing the thread up) to get the old studs out. They are pressed in. Put the new studs into position and either press them in, or use a nut placed backwards to tighten it until it is seated in fully. Use greased washers behind the nut if you find any big enough. Prob around 1/2". Reassemble!!! Part number #610-320 on Advanced auto parts. 1.89$ US each. Sorry if the pictures come out upside-down or sideways... I have no idea how to control that.

Just realized that this was for an 01, oops. Disregard my last post lol

i'd respectfully disagree. I got mine out in about 45 minutes. I put a screwdriver under the belt and tapped the starter, that popped the belt off really quickly. Next I removed the couple of cables, then removed the two bolts that attach it to the motor. I flexed the positive battery terminal over to the passenger side a little (about an inch or so) and the alternator came right out through the top.

They all should have holes for a hitch/ strap down bracket.

The hole near the bottom right is used to hold it open, just slide a pin or anytime of bar into the hole.