johann_peralta

About a year ago I had this same problem and eventually figured out part numbers, sizes, and was able to replace all the joints without problem. Unfortunately a year later all I have left in my notes are "rear flange hole distance 2 11/16" "front flange 2 1/4" "rear joint 3 1/4" "F 1 1/8" If I recall 2 of those were Nissan sizes, 1 was Jeep, and 1 was Ford. Sorry I know that probably useless. But maybe it can help. Good luck.

If I had to do another SAS (Im planning on another once I graduate), I'd lower it some (around 4-6" total lift), change the angle and mounting location for the upper mount of the coilover/airshocks, put the axle side coilover/airshock mounts an inch wider on each side, ditch the doubler, make a different trans crossmember with a slot for the front driveshaft, triangulated 4 link instead of parallel, ditch the cradle. In an ideal world, I would sas a 3.5 next time. A bigger motor couldn't hurt either.. Overall I think it was fine considering it sat around 26" of lift. Less lift would solve so many of the headaches. I never experienced any death wobble or shaking luckily.

SAS

The most recent picture. On 46s

Heres the most recent picture of it. On 46s

Veterinary School has taken top priority atm. Until I graduate I won't be doing car related things.

Sold all my pathfinders!

Not sure if this helps your situation, but the rear r50 studs will fit in the front. They sit very snug. I did this swap myself a few years ago for the extra length. I got the studs for under 2$ each at the time.

Thank you. Definitely not lol

My almost complete sas

put some 35s on it

SOA on 31s

did SUA first, but came out too stock looking IMO

Leafs mounted

Using the original tie down/ tow hook bolts. 3+2 on driver side and 4+2 on passenger

front leaf mounts