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johann_peralta

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Everything posted by johann_peralta

  1. The balljoints were previously shot, so we replaced them.
  2. Hard to explain using words only, but here goes my attempt. If you were to stack the 2 face plates on top of each other (with the long end facing away from you). The slope would go from the long end of the bottom one to the bolt opposite of the long end of the top one. Using that picture, the angle would go from the blue line of the bottom plate, to the hole touching the two red lines of the top plate. Using the picture, the strut spacer angles directly toward you.
  3. Here are the dimensions that I've used to make SFD kits. Have sold at least 15 so far, no problems yet.
  4. Pretty well! I've been running around the neighbor hood in it frequently just listening and for anything odd. Other than clicking/clanking ball joints its been great. Sway bars help a ton!
  5. My bad, I though I did. Its a second gen dodge ram master. From what I've read, the 1500/2500/3500 used the same one, regardless or gas or diesel. Its a 1.25 bore, m10x1 and m12x1 fittings. The 3.5 used a different master than the 3.3, but with carefully manipulating of the hard lines, i've gotten a 3.5 master to fit a 3.3. So I'd imagine you can make the 3.5 lines fit the dodge master also. The Nissan is a 1" bore, and both ports are m10x1. So the front port on the dodge will need an adapter. Hood doesn't close all the way unless you remove some of the lining on inside; the dodge master sits higher up. Could put washers between the hood and the hood brackets also. Here is the master: https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/HC/1968-09047407.html?utm_content=HC&utm_term=1998-2001+Dodge+Ram+1500+Brake+Master+Cylinder+Dorman+M390426+98-01+Dodge+Brake+Master+Cylinder+1999&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=Cj0KEQiAlsrFBRCAxcCB54XElLEBEiQA_ei0DEz_UIhNV5Me8XA2-z1XdRI_F6LXFLpE-vEqNb3iTG4aAoZ18P8HAQ&ad=47433965532 Here is the adapter I used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-Fitting-Reducer-Metric-M12-M12X1-Male-to-M10-M10X1-Female-Thread-Adapter-A268/401543647947?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  6. There are a few who have upgraded to bigger, including myself. Check out page 2 towards the bottom.
  7. 3/8" rubber bushing in between to hopefully minimize vibration
  8. top portion of another t-case mount bracket
  9. Here is how I got the track bar parallel to the drag link
  10. Got both driveshafts made for it. I posted some pics of them in the build thread. Unfortunately I lost 2 of the 4 ujoint strap bolts, so I cant keep the front one in till I get new bolts; the bolts are some funky metric fine thread (go figure). The gearing doesn't match yet, so i'm not going to install the front again until the 5.38s come in and I install them.
  11. Ive wanted to do this for like 4 years now. I just really like tinkering lol not sure why. A hobby that keeps me happy
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