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johann_peralta

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Everything posted by johann_peralta

  1. I ran a new stretch of brake line. Much easier!
  2. This write up is REALLY well done! Also, thats a really cool mod. On a side note theres a Facebook club for r50/qx4, and on there there is a guy by the name Shelby Fullen, who has also done a rear disk conversion on his r50 a few years back.
  3. I have 3 Kits up for Grabs! If you are serious about wanting one let me know! Message me or Email lol
  4. I am, Message me or email me or Facebook me. glad to give you a rundown of the kits.
  5. I've accidentally bent one by putting the jack directly onto it... no rust either. its fairly simple and won't hurt to spend a few minutes extra to cut a piece of wood to put in between the jack and the car.
  6. i have had very good results with armor all. I put it on a rag and rub it on the flares, door handles etc... it lasts a few months and looks nice IMO
  7. I would stray from these pictures because they have mistakes in them. Just a heads up...
  8. it will cost more than the cars value to do that swap. probably more than 2X the value... unfortunately anything other than stock will cost an arm and a leg! most likely those diesel engines that bolt right up will have to be imported and that alone is crazy expensive:/ if you are dead set on a swap however, use a simple old school motor that requires little electrical and that will make your life easier
  9. What is the hose one the side? DIY breather?
  10. How to replace rack: if you are replacing the TRE, you are gonna want to start by taking the TRE off the knuckle, helps to have a pickle fork or puller. If not replacing TRE, you can take the inner Tie rod off the outer. Once the ends are disconnected, it will be held on by two brackets that have 2 bolts each. if i remember correctly they are a 21mm size... don't quote me. so remove the 4 bolts that clamp the rack on. next it will help you a ton to remove the sway bar brackets that hold the bushing. should be around 4 bolts per sire. tie the sway bar up and out of your way. next you need to remove the hoses from the rack, there are two. be careful as fluid comes out as you loosen and remove them. after that, there may be one or two more lines coming to the rack, if so remove those. after that, unbolt the steering shaft connector from the rack. should be able to remove the rack now and replace it. id recommend replacing the rack bushings.
  11. gonna need some 1/4" rectangle tubing, one piece of 1/4" thick 18" long X 4" tall X 2" wide. another piece that is 12" long X 4" tall X 4" wide. gonna need something to cut it ( i chose angle grinder). Gonna need a drill, gonna need a steering extension from woodward steering, Pm me if you want the blueprints.
  12. idk how I feel about those only because of the image. The front coils look like they have a pig tail? Either that or the coils get very wide after the top and bottom few inches. If they do get wide they might hit on the tire or for non sfd people they can possibly hit in the inner well. The rear also has a slight pigtail look on one end and neither end of the pathfinder has that sort of perch. Quite possible that they aren't using actual pictures for the cars but who knows...
  13. If you can't find any for the QX4 try searching for the same year pathfinder..
  14. ABS holds up fine with bigger tires, the speedo gets off though.
  15. Advanced AutoParts sells camber bolts for about 4-5$. used them for over a year now with no issues.
  16. If you are looking for a popular lift that keeps the car mostly stock and has a fair ride, try 4x4parts.com they sell both lift coils, and lift spacers. I would recommend.
  17. newest family member, 97LE torn down, cleaned, maintenanced and soon to be the daily.
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