hawairish

My fuse block by the battery has a 20A "Trailer Tow" circuit that lacks a fuse. I found the harness for it back by the amp in the LH rear cargo area. I put a fuse on the circuit, and it stays hot (er, active) even with ignition off. I may actually have a use for this circuit... But, what's the normal trailer towing condition to have a circuit that's constantly on? Since it's a factory harness, I presume this is for a factory trailer towing package, but I can't make sense of the circuit seeing as it doesn't have a relay on it. Did the OE package have is own set of relays?

Doubtful. They're just going to enter your trucks info/VIN into a machine and pull up the specs. It'll probably tell them there's no camber adjustment, and they'll say that they can't adjust the camber. I'm sure there are some shops that might put in the extra effort, but probably not many except those who do customizations or install aftermarket parts. But you have all the info you need. Buy them, take them with you to the shop, and ask them to install them if they'll help hit camber specs. I installed my own camber bolts, took it for an alignment, told them it had camber bolts and that it normally doesn't, and they said 'cool'.

FWIW, all the info I digest comes directly from the FSMs, which I perceive as the de-facto source of information (at least for North American models). When I do my parts cross-references, I use the following sites: http://www.NissanPartsDeal.com -- I've found this to be extremely accurate when filtering by VIN. I source VINs from eBay auctions and online car classifieds, such as AutoTrader, where much of the vehicle information is provided and can be compared to results at NPD. http://Parts.NissanUSA.com -- This is Nissan's official parts website. It also has a search by VIN, which is usually reliable (if the data is available, which it isn't always). I use this to reinforce information from NPD, as well as to get manufacturing dates (the site will post multiple p/n and provide the manufacturing dates of the vehicle that they would have appeared on) http://www.NissanParts.cc -- They have a p/n lookup that pretty much tells you all the vehicles (by model, year, trim) where a p/n was used. While sometimes the parts descriptions contain conflicting or vague information, it's still high-level useful. http://nissan-europe.epc-data.com/ -- This is European parts equivalent of #2...although not officially Nissan, and it completely lacks diagrams, it has all the part numbers that can be cross-referenced. I can provide examples of how I use them, if it'll help. Yes, all open R50 diffs are the 2-pinion versions. 4-pinion LSDs were the only other option. The shafts are hardly weaker. Whatever you could do to break a 31/s shaft would likely break a 33/s. We're talking 1-2mm deltas at any given point. The shafts only differ by 1mm (33.5mm vs 34.5m), and the splines by 2mm (31mm vs 33mm). That's negligible in my book. And that's only for the 99-00 Frontier shafts. The 03-04 Frontier shafts are identical to the R50 shafts, except for the splined part and the wheel flange. Grand picture: All WD21 (87-95) with H233B have 31/s (but not all WD21 have H233B; C200 was the other option). All R50 (96-04) have 33/s (all have H233B, none have 31/s). All 03-04 R50 have 4.363; all prior R50s had either 4.363 or 4.636. The R50 ratios are not tied to engines. All H233B WD21 and D21 have 4.375 or 4.625. Frontiers with H233B have all 4 ratios depending on splines. Xterras with H233B have R50 ratios, plus 4.9 (not all Xterras have H233B; some had C200). The 03-04 Frontiers C200 has 31/s (that's Unicorn #2). I don't think the Xterra got 31/s C200 until MY05, but it's a different axle (C200K) with its own nuances. If you plan to re-gear (assuming you have 4wd), your only option is to go to 4.636 if you have 4.363. There's no other gears that will fit your front R200A diff. You can determine your ratio by looking at the Axle Code on your truck's tag (passenger firewall, or driver's door jamb). HG43=4.363, HG46=4.636.

^ What he said. It is in the FSM, though. Check the Maintenance chapter under "Recommended Fluids and Lubricants". Both diffs, regardless of open or LSD, use "API GL-5 viscosity SAE 80W-90", but the LSD requires a suitable additive. But, you can run LSD-safe gear oil in your open diff. Personally, I use Valvoline 80W-90 p/n VV831; GL-4/GL-5 and has LSD additives. It's about $6/qt from Summit. I have a hard time finding a good and reasonably priced selection locally...plus Summit doesn't charge me tax.

Patrols didn't have a C200 front axle (I don't believe that even exists). They had H233B front and rear; front is 31-spline, rear is 33-spline. I know of the H260 rear, but I do not know what models/trims they were on. I'm also not sure if Patrols came with rear open diffs...I think they were either LSD or factory locker (vacuum operated). The locked version looks like this: Here's an interesting post about a guy who decided to move it to the front axle. If you plan to go with either H233B or H260, you'll likely be in good shape. Then, with an H233B front, you have several mechanical locker options, which I described in another post just other day, in fact. The Lokka is probably the most accessible for you, then maybe Spartan, then Lock Right. If you have an LSD rear and open front, I generally agree with locking the front first (especially if IFS, which you won't be of course). But, with straight axles, I'd say it's only slightly better to go locked/LSD (front/rear) than open/locked. It also depends on the LSD...the US versions got pretty weak after 1998, but I have no clue what the specs were for Patrols. You could also find an LSD out of a Terrano/Pathinder or Hardbody with the H233B rear and it will fit the Patrol front axle. The WD21 and D21 had great LSD numbers.

I found that the bolts I got didn't fully clear the strut bracket up top, but close. But I wasn't under the impression that bolts with >1.5% were available...if you want 1.5-3% of camber, you'd have to buy two sets.

But is he knowledgeable about Nissans? There are very few vendors that know squat about Nissans. Rugged Rocks (Steve) and Automotive Customizers (Mike), who specialize in Nissan parts, have it listed correctly. You should talk to those guys. Again, use of the 3220 hinges on the idea that a 4-pinion carrier with 33/s side gears existed and had the same cut as the 31/s side gears. It doesn't exist. If it does, it's not discussed in any 96-04 R50/D22/WD22 FSM and not even Powertrax shows it as an application.

Thanks! And yes, there are no 33/s mechanical lockers available, not even for a Patrol (which had OE rear lockers anyway). SteeevO, owner of Rugged Rocks and a member/vendor here, had been pushing to make this happen with a couple manufacturers for about a decade now. When I last chatted with him about it last year, the initial and minimum order quantities seemed too risky to move it forward. The Powertrax catalog doesn't show this as fitting 33/s, either. It may have been an early misapplication by Richmond/Powertrax or vendors, but that's been corrected by Powertrax. Not sure why it continues to be cross-listed. You could theoretically broach 31/s side gears to be 33/s, but the spline diameters are too close and the metal too hardened to be able to reasonably do that. And then, you'd need someone with the right broaching die and machine...good luck finding that guy. Still, I'm 99.9% sure it won't work. You'd think it'd be spline-agnostic because it reuses the OE side gears, but here's why it doesn't work: I found no proof of a 4-pinion open carrier with 33/s side gears ever existed. All the vehicles with 33/s H233B (all R50 Pathfinder, some D22 Frontiers, all WD22 Xterras) used a 2-pinion open carrier or the LSD. Although the LSD carrier is 4-pinion and came with 33/s side gears, the 3220 is too large for it. 33/s side gears have rounded teeth while 31/s have a sharper cut. The 3220's drivers wouldn't mesh properly. The 3220 drivers won't fit into the 2-pinion carrier. Precise1 provided some dimensions and pics for the 3220 on one of my other posts. I compared them against the LSD side gears in a reply. You can also see the 33/s side gears in post #4 on this thread. That said, the .1% is reserved for an IDGAF moment where you just put the 2-pinion 33/s side gears into the 4-pinion open carrier and use it as is. My cross-referencing suggests it could all physically fit and work to some degree, but it'd surely fail soon after.

Here's where the magic happens... Kinda hard to see, but the area around the boss on that socket bolt in the center is a bit rough. Manufacturing defect, but no impact on function. The guts. Beef Supreme! Seriously, these internals look robust. No plastic inside (I wonder if all the ARBs have a plastic internal cage?) . That ring (spur?) gear is one thick sucker. Side gear: This might explain better how it works... This ring on the outside of the locker is moved by the actuator (slides up and down in relation to the picture; shown down/disengaged) is moved by the actuator: When the actuator is disengaged, the ring gear is disengaged from the side gear, and the locker is unlocked (open): When engaged, the ring gear slides around the side gear, keeping it stationary to the housing and locking the differential: ... First impressions...this looks awesome. I'd love to have a newer ARB to do a side-by-side, but this makes my (older) ARB RD107 look like a Chinese knock-off! The sliding mechanism moves very freely. Aside from the cosmetic defect above, it's solid. I like that it includes a thick rubber hose for connecting to the housing, offering far more protection from line damage. Not sure if I'll use it on the barbs without hose clamps, which weren't included. I won't be using the bulkhead fitting, though...nothing wrong with the pieces, but except that it's 1/4" BSPP threaded, and I'm not going to buy a tap for it when I already have a 1/4" NPT tap (and conveniently, a spare ARB bulkhead kit). The bearings that are included have a 50mm ID, which is larger than OE (can't get a good measurement right now, but guessing about 6-8mm smaller ID). The included bearings are made in Japan by Nachi (p/n E32010J), which was surprisingly easy to find on Amazon, though the low price (~$25) seems low. But hey...bearings included! The solenoid seems a bit cheaper than the ARB and MAC, but then again...if it works, that's all I care about. Everything else with the kit seems like good stuff. Price-wise, $694 for the TJM vs. $950 for an RD135 ARB...I'll take that chance. I've dropped at least another $200 in just fittings, manifolds, pressure sensors, valves, compact manifolds, 1/2 gallon air tank...it really adds up quickly! But, I think I'll be pleased with the system when all is said and done. I may as well turn this into a my install thread... For pneumatics, it'll be plumbed to allow for tire inflation still, and with a tank will provide enough reserve for the lockers for several engagements, I'd think. The MAC solenoids will allow me to purge off the 'chambers' before and after my check valve. This will prevent the compressor from hi-load (backpressure) at start-up (I don't think this is an issue with an ARB compressor, but I'm not running one). For electronics, I won't be using Carling switches. Instead, I'll be using the All-Mode switch found in other R50/QX4 models in the following manner: 2WD = OFF (system purge) AUTO = Compressor on (with 70/100 pressure switch) 4HI = Rear locker 4LO = Rear + Front lockers The transfer case controller normally controls the logic for each dial position, but if I understand the circuit correctly from the FSM, a pair of diodes will get me the effect I need. It'll look completely stock of course, and should have all the safety features I need...though I might put a separate switch upstream as a 2nd layer. I would have no reason to run the front locker by itself. To fit in in the dash bezel, all I need to do is replace the lower bezel insert with this: I'm still waiting on a lot of parts before I can tackle this, but hopefully I can at least have the locker in the axle by week's end, and then plumb/wire everything up soon after. Stay tuned!

Alright, here it is! Includes: Locker 6mm x 15m air hose 1/4" x 1m rubber hose (attaches to bulkhead, then adapts to 6mm...more on that later) 2x bearings (yes, they are different from OE) ring gear bolts solenoid fittings actuator actuator bracket w/ hardware Carling switch base (looks like it has a red illumination LED, and a green "on" LED) Carling switch paddle ("TJM PRO LOCKER REAR") bulkhead fitting, barbed fittings, and other related pieces bumper sticker (like an actual bumper sticker, not something cooler like a vinyl cutout) I guess extrusion machines (or is it, "equiment"?) don't have spell-check. For reference, ARB uses 5mm hose, while TJM 1-ups them at 6mm. More pics of the locker to follow, but here's a comparison of an ARB seal housing vs. TJM actuator: The mechanical function between the ARB and TJM is very similar, it's just how the air is used to move the mechanisms. The ARB seal housing routes the air inside the locker (sealed by two large o-rings), applies pressure to a large rubber-coated washer/seal, which moves a cage (plastic in the RD107 for an R200A, btw) and engages the gears. The TJM keeps the air external to the locker, moving the fork-like piece on the actuator against a sliding ring, when then engages the locker (the pictures below will probably explain this better). From L-R: MAC, TJM, and ARB solenoids: I'll be using a pair of the MAC solenoids to purge the lines when the system is idle or off. More on that later...

Not "longer"...just "camber bolts". Amazon or eBay. 14mm. I bought these and this generic set for cheaps. You can run two sets, but you should only need one set (set = 2 bolts, 2 washers, 4 alignment washers).

More than you wanted to know probably.

Exactly...if there's even a tiny amount of friction on the side gears with a clutch pack, and it's enough to overcome the rotational resistance of the driveshaft in neutral, then the driveshaft would rotate while both tires rotated in the same direction. If the driveshaft was in park/gear, though, it'd look like an open because the spiders would allow for it, but you'd have some resistance in turning. If it turns easily in that scenario, it's definitely open.

Sorry, wasn't disagreeing with you on it being from a C200. BTW, I posted up some pics the other day of the H233B carriers here. Notice that the 4-pinion open is strikingly similar to the C200.

I don't doubt that's a C200 carrier. Looks like my R200A open carrier, in fact (as it should): But I presume your diff was from your 88? By the late 90's, Nissan had three C200 carriers: 2- and 4-pinion open carriers, and a 4-pinion LSD. (The H233B did the same thing...late 80's/early 90's had 2-pinion open, then they went to 4-pinion for a while, then back to 2-pinion. LSD carrier remain unchanged.) Using a 1998 Frontier as an example, here's the 2wd's 2-pinion carrier: But here's the 4wd's 4-pinion open carrier: Although FSM diagrams should only be taken at face value, the shape of the "differential case RH" piece is pretty distinctive, and both diagrams appear fairly accurately. The final years of the 1st gen Frontier and Xterra, 2004, have the same 2wd vs 4wd open carrier, except by then there was a C200 LSD (and it used the same H233B LSD internals, as stated earlier). Of course, it's hard to know what Nissan did with the Terrano post-1995 (up to 2004?), but they presumably stuck with the same available drivetrains of the WD21, Hardbodies, Navara/Frontier, and Xterra at the time. Still, I don't think that's the C200 LSD carrier, just the 4-pinion open.

Looking good! I like the color...might just be the sky or something, but is it more blue than purple? I think it's the same color as my Frontier.

Not if it uses the same LSD internals as the H233B (which it does according to the parts websites I use...but seeing as it's a 1999 WD21...who knows!). No springs there, though; works entirely on compression and friction. Can't say I've seen a C200 LSD, though, but that particular carrier looks exactly like a scaled down version of the 4-pinion open that came in H233B. That's why I'm not sure it's an LSD (and it sounds like it's behaving like an open). Those 5 little dots you see in the center would be oil at the ends of the splines as it rests against the thrust block.

Yesterday, pulled down the front diff and uninstalled the Lokka. It's going to a good home. Then, prepped the axle housing for the ARB. Just waiting on new bearings...and a ton of other crap. Later today, planning to press together the rear disc brake and axle shaft assemblies. It's going to be a busy busy week.

I didn't realize the WD21 existed after 95, but I'm seeing Philippine classifieds for a them for up to 04. Interesting! So there wasn't an R50 there? Thanks for clarifying the bottle jack test. Thanks for the other pic, but it's inconclusive. I'd need to see the RH side of it, away from the gear. I can see that it uses a thrust block and runs 4.875 gears (39:8), though.

Not familiar with bottle jack test. What year is your truck? Looks like the diff cover has been repainted and the original sticker was taped back on. Also did a little more research...as far as I can tell, the C200 LSD also uses H233B LSD internals, surprisingly. I'd expect the carriers to look similar, in that case, but it doesn't look like it's got the right clearances for clutch packs. Got any close-up pics?

Hmmm. Oddly it looks like the 4-pinion carrier found in the H233B (for certain yours is a C200), but the sticker is usually a tell-tale of LSD. Perhaps it is? Was the truck in park when you tried the test? Try putting it in neutral...if the tires spin together while the driveshaft rotates, I'd stand corrected.

My guess at failure source is a sheared cross-shaft (all I could find of it is that little 1.5" piece), judging by the wallowed-out thrust washers. Who puts a 3.35 (47:14) gear ratio in a full-size 4wd truck anyway? Oh right... Nissan...

They just couldn't fulfill the order and strung me along about it. At first they said there was an issue at their manufacturing plant that created a backorder (yet it was in-stock when I ordered). They didn't even let me know when they knew about it, took them a few days to even respond to my initial inquiry email. By the time they said they could ship it, I was traveling so we arranged for them to hold the shipment for a few days. When I got back, no locker, no emails. Few more days waiting for their reply. Then a few more. Then a few more. They didn't answer any of my emails within 2 weeks. I had to contact them on FB because they stopped replying to emails. All I wanted for them was to communicate a date and ship it. Then it took them another week or so to refund me. Compared to last year: both duke90 and I ordered ours on the same day, and both arrived at my house in 4 days.

I'm at the junkyard right now, and guess what I found? A 2005 Titan with the M226 and all that's left of a busted crosshaft, and toasted pinion. I'll post some pics later.

C200, open. No orange sticker on the diff cover, I presume?