hawairish

It’s not always terrible. I once tuned into a truckers’ convo while stuck in traffic on the freeway in eastern AZ, and one trucker was adamant that people get fecal matter in their ears because they use their phones in the restroom. That was worth its weight in gold, and all thanks to having a CB.

I won't deny that we've talked about one of those items in significant detail.

Leave the Frontier, too!

After years of chatting about our own Pathfinder projects—and often, grumblings about having to make our own parts or hack together something—it’s become clear that Jacob (@TowndawgR50) and I (Patrick) have a common passion for our trucks. We’re always bouncing ideas around and sanity-checking each other’s work, ultimately realizing we have highly complementary skill sets that extend beyond working on trucks. We’ve also grown tired of a serious lack of aftermarket support for our trucks, especially when there’s an obvious demand to keep them on the road and make them more capable than they already are. To counter that, we’re teaming up to fill that void. That’s right: it’s time to turn a hobby into a business! In the weeks to come, we will be making more announcements regarding the status of the company (still working on the name!) and our product offerings. We’re still in the early stages of the company formation, and have some challenges ahead of us (most notably the 1,400 miles that separate us!), but we’re ready and stoked to get the word out there. If any of our individual projects have piqued your interest, then our collaborative efforts won’t disappoint. Our initial focus will be on subframe drop (SFD) kits, as this is the most important component required to move beyond 2” of front suspension lift. Unlike prior versions of kits that have existed, we intend to offer complete kits and à la carte components in multiple heights—including strut spacers—to support various lift configurations. Our particular focus is to provide high-quality finished products that simplify installation for the average DIYer (hint: strut disassembly not required), and without having to replace aftermarket components you’ve already purchased. While we won’t go into detail about all the products (and services) we’ve been discussing, we will tease that trailing arms and panhard bars (both in static lengths with poly bushings, and adjustable lengths with rebuildable joints), skid plates, missing link, and bumper brackets are on the product roadmap. That said, we’re looking forward to a productive 2019, so stay tuned!

Nissman’s correct. Easy thing to fix.

I initially responded to stick with 01, but I guess if you carry over enough from your 02, the other ought to work. Just keep in mind 03-04 is drive-by-wire.

Yes, there was an OE rear carrier for the 01-04 models, but it was very rare here. The main body was slightly different from 96-00 ones, but shared all the same hardware and latch components as far as I could tell. I’ve only seen a few pics of it. @TowndawgR50 saw one on the road in his neck of the woods just the other week. He scrambled to get some pics, but it was like trying to catch Bigfoot, lol.

Add @jax99 to the list of 9448s. I think we got the expected 4" out of them.

The lockers go inside, or replace, the differential, if that’s what you’re asking. If you’re wondering “where”, on the other hand, any 4x4 or differential shop can do it. Depending on the type of locker, you’ll need other special tools, particularly if you need to “set up” the gears again. Set up is normally required if you replace the carrier, or if you put a locker in an H233B. For R180/R200 (front) and C200, you can get away with putting everything back in the way it come out (i.e., don’t mix up the bearing races and any shims). If doing a mechanical locker up front, it’s pretty easy. Just disassemble the axle and carrier, pop the ring gear off, replace the carrier internals with the locker pieces, then put it all back together. Only thing you might need to check, as I’m not familiar with WD21 drivetrain options, is whether you’ve got the R180 or R200 up front...I don’t know what options exist for the R180.

Nice. Though, what rims do you have? I had to trim the lip on the carrier portion for it to clear the OE rim.

I've not read 1" as a max anywhere. As mentioned, it may come down to CV manufacturer, or the possibility that the truck sits (or operates) at difference angles at different times. I don't have a definitive answer to your truck, but I'd argue there are too many variables. I've run between 1.5" and 2" of net lift (currently 5" of lift on 3" SFD) without issues. Steve (aka @fleurys), the owner of SF Creation, is an active member of the community. His spacers are pretty popular, and I don't think he's had many complaints about them. I'd reach out to him directly if you have any concerns.

I'll reply to your other thread (thanks for creating a separate one).

I just answered some of this in your other reply, but yes, a 2" SFD would require a modified or aftermarket steering link. Tool and hardware space will be tight in the motor mount spacers, though. The subframe spacers are less of an issue; you can using longer bolts to connect things. It's all doable, but a 2" SFD would cost almost as much as a 4" because you still need the steering link, which is the most expensive part. If 2" of spacers are so problematic, and you don't want to change parts, I'd just pull off 1" of spacers for the time being, or even shave a half-inch off one.

You've answered your own question: they call it a lift because it was once sold as a lift kit; which provided 4" of lift. I agree that the "SFD" part is worth distinguishing as "not a lift". You've got a lot of other thoughts in your comments, perhaps enough to start your own thread if you're having issues. As stated above, 2" of lift is in that no-man's land, and it's hit or miss in regards to CV binding. There no reason one side would be more faulty than another; same exact CVs on a mirrored suspension. Others have reported differences in CV manufacturers, however. A 2" SFD would require a modified or replacement steering link. A 2" SFD is also not as practical as taller sizes, noting that I've fitted 1", 2.5", and 3" SFDs on my own truck, because of tight hardware spaces in the motor mount spacers, and the costs of the steering link (though the joints can be re-used with a longer shaft if you eventually were to jump to taller SFD). Any amount of lift requires additional or replacement parts. I'm not understanding your complaint there.

@SpecialWarr Yes, an LSD is a good traction device, but I omitted it from the list because it’s not a locker. Having run a front mechanical locker with a rear re-packed LSD, though, I can attest to its capabilities. Costs-wise, changing from open-to-LSD or re-packing an existing LSD might not be cheaper than mechanical locker either.

But seriously, if you want to make a magnetic drain plug, just buy a neodymium magnet with a small diameter...1/4” would be fine. Drill a 1/4” hole at the end of the bolt, some distance less that the height of the magnet, then stick the magnet in, maybe with a dab of silicone adhesive or something.

The filters I’ve had with magnets just have them attached at the bottom, on the inside, visible by looking in. Don’t recall the brand(s), since lately I just grab whatever satisfies the local deals for synthetics. The spare filter I’ve got doesn’t have it. When you do have skids, the valve means you don’t have to remove them (well...still gotta remove the fronts). Although I’ve made my skids that much easier to remove, it’s still one less thing to bother with. (Though, I only change my oil once a year, occasional top-offs...the only way it gets easier than that is to simply not change it.)

Probably wouldn't hurt anything more than the wallet to have a magnetic drain plug, but most of the oil filters I've used in my trucks already have magnets in them. Even without a magnet, I've come this far with various vehicles and it's never been an issue. I've got a Fumoto valve, too, and I'd rather have it over a magnet. Even then, you could make one of those for well under $35.

There are a few locker types out there: Mechanical lockers aka lunchbox lockers aka unlockers: these have spring-loaded side gears that keep the diff locked most of the time, but will disengage (unlock) when making turns to allow one tire to rotate faster than the other. They'll make a click-click-click or tap-tap-tap noise during the turn. This allows them to be streetable to some degree, but loose terrain (including wet road) may prevent them from disengaging, which could prove hazardous; simple solution: slow down, brake earlier. Because they are already locked, there's nothing extra the driver needs to do to engage them. Most lockers of this type fit inside the OE differential carrier; some (like a Detroit Locker) replace the carrier. If you have rear LSD, you'll need an open carrier to put non-Detroit mechanical lockers in. These are rather economical options, running around $200-$300 for most brands, and can be installed with basic tools. Air lockers (ARB) or Pro Locker (TJM): these require an air compressor and some electrical wiring to engage. The air pressure is what locks the locker, and the locker unit replaces the entire OEM differential carrier. The wiring portion puts electric solenoid on the air line, which opens to fill the air hose between it and the locker. This is engaged by a switch that the user toggles. One air compressor can power both front and rear locker, so it usually makes sense to run dual air lockers, budget permitting. When not engaged, the locker acts like an open diff. These lockers run around $1K and require more advance mechanical skills for installation, as gear setup is required. Factor in another $200-$400 for the air compressor and fittings. E-lockers: while not readily available in the US, an Australian brand, Harrop, makes the Eaton equivalent of their E-lockers for Nissans. Like the air lockers, these replace the entire carrier and are open diffs when off. They don't require air, of course, but do require some light electrical wiring. A 12V source and a driver-operated switch engages the locker. Harrop and other importers sell them for around $1200-$1300 USD depending on the exchange rate. Although they are more expensive, they also don't need an air compressor. Cable lockers: Although I don't think there's a Nissan option, cable-actuated lockers (like OX) do exist. Same concept as the air and e-lockers, except they are engaged by lever and cable. However, there are kits that can convert them to air-driven. Spools: these replace the carrier internals, or the entire carrier. Not sure if aftermarket options exists for Nissan, but these "lock" the diff 100% because they completely eliminate the "differential" function of the diff. The idea is that all the moving pieces are held stationary to each other, which means that you can weld all the internals together to turn the diff into a spool. Cost in that scenario is just labor and welding wire. Since you will be installing manual hubs, these tend to pair well with mechanical lockers as a budget-friendly option. Since you have a WD21, you also have rear mechanical diff options if budget is an issue. Either route, lockers are worth every penny.

McMaster has a variety of them (that’s where they came from).

Think of the SFD as a means to correct lift amounts beyond 2”, and for the front of the truck only. It’s literally to “drop” the suspension, driveline, and suspension to correct the effects of too much lift. You can do any amount of lift (by means of strut spacers or coils; struts by themselves don’t provide any lift) you’d like, but you just need an SFD to correct everything. That said, you’re looking at needing at least 4” of lift to reasonably clear 32” tires. To get 4” you can do stock springs on a 4” strut spacer, or 2” lift springs and 2” spacers. You’d then want a 4” SFD to “correct” the OE geometries. You can put 6” of lift on a 4” SFD...the truck will then have the geometries of a 2” lift, which is acceptable.

Well...there's one caveat: no one's making SFDs. But, perhaps that'll change soon... The problem is that 2"-3" is no-man's land. You can do 3" of lift without an SFD, but shouldn't. The issue is that after around the 2.5" mark, your suspension articulation can cause the CVs to bind due to higher angles, which will eventually lead to breakage. You could buy lifetime-replacement CVs if you enjoy the work, but the purpose of the SFD is to restore those CVs angles to acceptable specs. Same is true for the steering/alignment and suspension.

Yes, that'll work. At home, I just use a bottle degreaser, let it set a couple minutes, then just hose it off. At a spray-and-wash bay, I use the engine/tire degreaser and low pressure rinse. In both cases, I avoid any direct spray towards electrical parts and the air intake. Neither. Factory Service Manual. Unfortunately, I don't know if you'll be able to find a 1990 one online, but I know a 1993 one is available at https://nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-pathfinder-factory-service-manuals.html. It might get you closer than 3rd party manual even for the same year.

I really liked using that tray for the gauges, too. That was his idea, and I took it from there. I think I'll do something similar to relocate some items and put a double-DIN stereo back in. As for the Bilsteins, I like how they turned out overall, but that straight fitting concerns me. It's fine for everyday use and some trails, but a hard tuck could be really bad. I have an idea on how to correct that, and probably fix TownDawg's problem of too-long shocks. The sway bar links...we kind of forgot about this going into the project and needed to improvise. All I had was some square tube remnants from the side gate I replaced the other year (that gate is seriously the gift that keeps on giving!), and it was a perfect fit for the round stock of the OE links. I just cut them in half, ground down some flat spots to take a weld, and drilled some holes into the square tube to do a few fill welds. The OD of the bar was a perfect fit for the tube stock; so much that I used my floor press to fit them together to the right length. We extended them exactly 4". We kept the air bags mainly because it was already plumbed. When I had installed those previously on the truck, we had replaced the OE bumpstop with a round disc so the bag had a flat surface to compress against, but still used a 2" body spacer/puck to extend the contact surface (I have the same body puck on mine, but I'm using OE style bumpstop). After flexing a little, we also decided that keeping the bags filled a little might avoid contact between tire and shock hose. Using that space for a compressor...man, it took a LOT of thinking and bunch of adjustments. Having now done two R50 engine bay air compressor installs...that is seriously the last one. For his, the front-left brake line was bent a bit for clearance. Wires for two of the harnesses in that area were extended several inches. The mounting bracket over the strut tower was modified in a few ways. A support leg on the fuse box was cut off. I used the plasma cutter to make the brackets for the air compressor and for the fuse box. Just a lot of items, and fitment for everything else was tight. I kept telling him that the next time he needs an air compressor installed, I'm just mounting it in a toolbox! Oh yeah, and somewhere in between, we had to redo two of the rivnuts on the tire carrier latch. I think when you plan to do that, we may have to talk about necessary reinforcement.

Me too (and I know how they turned out!). He’s probably still recovering from the weekend! He got to experience firsthand the marathon workload his brother and I did the last time the truck was in my garage...despite having “only” three things to do this time around (shocks, springs, compressor), it was far from being simple installs. We put in some really long hours, I felt pretty bad with how long all the mods took, but the end result seems worth it and I think the community will be pleased by the work. I got some pics, but I’ll wait for him to show-and-tell!