SkiBumBrian

It has friction modifiers in it or something like that. I know if you don't use oil specifically designed for a limited slip it can cause issues. Any of the stuff I have seen says it right on the container " for use in limited slip differentials"

I know this may seem like a ridiculous question, but was it LSD rated gear oil?

Replaced all the wiper blades and continued to troubleshoot the dang fog lights. Thought it was the relay but noooo! Ran ohm checks of all the wiring from the relay to the lamps and hooked them up directly to 12V and they are fine... gotta be the switch, right? Tomorrow will tell !

3-4 hours? That's just about right.... Come to Shasta county, we wheel all the time here. Winter is coming though so most of the mountains are off limits without chains and shovels. We have a big get together coming up on Jan 1st. We head for the snow and see who can get the "stuckest"....

Finally got a full sized spare.....

Oops. missed that in his post..... I was at work on my phone and sometimes I'm not thinking too clearly. All you geniuses can't answer my questions, so go ahead and laugh!!

Sounds like CVs to me....

Ouch! Nothing worse than electrical problems in my book, they can be so hard to trace. Like you, I know very little about the harness on the Pathfinder but with a schematic and some simple troubleshooting and a DMM you can find just about anything. From your description it sounds like an open of some sort to the ignition if turning the key yields no effect. I personally would start there, looking for power to the switch. Are you sure when you were up by the battery you didn't accidentally loosen a connector, main fuse or relay? Like I said, the specifics of the Pathfinder elude me but print the wiring diagram from the FSM, grab your meter and start chasing power.... Sending electrical "energy" your way. Good Luck!

My low fuel light has never came on but I have taken it to the "E" and it only took a bit over 16 gallons so I, like you, assume there is quite a bit in reserve.

Thanks Rob. I got that speel from the local alignment shop that I was referred to. He actually lowered the front 1 inch cuz he said if he didn't it wouldn't align. Sounded like BS to me. I brought it home an lifted it back where it was.... I guess I am gonna have to live with it or figure it out myself.

That would probably be safe but my '91 is the big tank too. Maybe different models or options?

Are there camber bolts for pre-95's?? Not listed on 4x4parts...

I guess that was about the time we got a short hard rain in Redding, didn't know it snowed as low as Mt. Shasta though, town or I-5 anyway.....

Got my Magnaflow Cat and muffler today in the mail. I also have my new exhaust studs, gaskets and hardware for when I get some Thorley headers. My question is, I want to rebuild everything from the cat back now and install the headers at a later date when I have more coin. Is there a preferred place to do the "splice" that would make installation of the headers later easier and/or cheaper? Maybe some type of flange in an appropriate place for mating the 2 halves? Lemme know if this is an acceptable idea or if I should just stare at them in the corner until I can do the whole system. Thanks!

I could find no rear regulators anywhere on line, maybe Rob has a line on some regulator replacements. I picked up 2 at the local Pick & Pull, 15 bucks a piece. Sounds like the gear on the motor to me, I think the motors are interchangeable for all windows.

Thanks, I plan on watching and listening closely. I am carrying a laser thermometer too so when I get out after a good long drive I can take some readings at the end of the axle. I am a bit anal about noises coming from my vehicles so I don't expect anything to get by me for long.... These next few days of commuting will speak volumes. Thanks again!

Caswell makes a gas tank sealer that works well. It will fill smaller holes and coats the inside of the tank with a layer of epoxy. Awesome stuff, about 40 bucks online will do a 20 gallon tank...Blue Lightning also makes a similar product that I use on Poly tanks, Caswell does not bond to cross-linked polyethylene (XLPE).

OK, here is the story. Not as eventful as it could have been, thankfully. It is not as big of a PITA as I thought it would be. The biggest pain is removing the emergency brake cable which entails dismantling the drum brake behind the disc rotor(if you have disc brakes). if you have drum brakes I bet you can skip a step. After you get that free and remove the four nuts holding the axle assembly to the axle housing the axle should pull out with a few grunts. Then you will be looking at 2 surfaces, the seal that stayed in the axle housing and the assembly on the axle which holds the bearing. All the bearing assembly is held together and controls the axial play by a castle nut with a lock washer. Here is where my issue was found (I think). I noticed that the castle nut was not locked by the lock washer but continued to remove the castle nut like anyone would that did not own the special Nissan tool, with a large punch and a hammer.... It came off quite easily and exposed the seal and bearing. After close inspection I decided that the bearing and seal were in awesome condition and would not pull the bearing. I deduced that the castle nut was the culprit, loosening and allowing some lateral play in the axle (had it been like this since 1991?). I reinstalled the castle nut, tightening it in the same Neanderthal method I removed it with a bit more torque determined by the swing of my hammer.... After swearing and giggling about the tedious job of reassembling the E brake mechanism, she went back together and it was time for a test drive at 2 o'clock in the morning. I headed to the Safeway parking lot, lots of speed bumps and dips where the symptoms reared their ugly head in the first place. The problem had all but gone away. The movement was diminished to almost none but I could have tightened that castle nut another 1/4 turn I bet.... I am gonna drive it like this for a day or 2 and see how it feels. It went from feeling like the rear end was gonna fall off to an almost indistinguishable nuisance. When I go back in for the final tweaking I suppose I can have this done in less than a couple of hours. So the long story short (too late). This really is no big deal, if you need to replace seals or bearings and have a puller in your arsenal this is quite a simple, straightforward, procedure. If my present diagnosis is incorrect and have to dive back in I wont worry about it, there are ALOT of other things more time consuming and difficult. I am just glad the problem wasn't in the LSD....

I can't tell ya right off but if you go the the Garage forum you can find the FSM for your Pathy and there is a wiring schematic in there which will help a lot. Welcome to the forums and good luck! Now to post my own adventure.......

I plan on taking some pics and doing a write up. Seems like this task needs some info, doesn't appear many have to get in the axle housing often....

Thanks for the insight and tip!!

Anybody ever service or replace the rear wheel bearings? I am in the process of replacing whatever is shot in my rear bearing carrier. I know the FSM shows all the fancy Nissan specialty tools for doing the job but was wondering if anyone has accomplished this without the axle slide hammer, press, etc. gotta wait til payday to tackle it but would like some feedback before I start this next week.

B nailed it. Probably the possible mounting of a plate, Why not use them? Why not cut a crossmember or gusset? depending on its structural need it can be bored to "lighten" or in some instances actually improves its performance, on "Ye Olde Pigs" every ounce helps!

Just ordered my Magnaflow cat and Gibson muffler. Did I do good or should I stop the order? Really need the cat and back, the Thorleys and modded intake can wait....

Been trying to figure out this "noise" since the lift. During slow turns with changes in elevation I feel and hear a thump, thump, thump, but no slipping per say. Only seems to do it at extremely slow speeds and on bumps. My first thought was the LSD, then I thought maybe wheel bearings, then I thought maybe the new Rancho shocks topping out... I am gonna take some laser temp readings on the end of the axles tomorrow after driving to work to look for excessive heat in either axle looking toward bearing issues. Any thoughts? Rebuilding the clutch pack looks like a PITA, thinking maybe I should go with a standard rear end and a locker, only because all the tolerances in rebuilding the LSD looks insane.